Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump for Irrigation
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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End Suction Centrifugal Pump
1.Structure of End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description
End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.
End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.
2.Main Features of the End Suction Water Pump
• very easy to be installed and maintained
•Back pull-out design
•Driven through flexible coupling
•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.
•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system
3.End Suction Water Pump Specification
Design | Performance and dimensions referring to BS EN733/DIN24255 |
Structure | Horizontal,Axial,End-Sution,Single-Stage,Single-Sution,Volute,Casing,Back,Pull-out, Centrifugal Pump |
Flange | DIN2501(ISO7005.2/GB/T17241.6 PN1.6)Standard, ANSI B16.5 Class150lb optional) |
Rotation | Clockwise viewing from the drive side |
Casing | Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Impeller | Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Shaft | ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional |
Shaft Seal | Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional |
Flow rate | 2-1100m3/h |
Head | 2-152m |
Speed | 1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz) |
Working Pressure | 1.6PMa or 2.0PMa |
4.Picture of End Suction Pump
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: My water pump is losing pressure slowly even though no water is being used. Your help is appreciated. Thank you.
- If the motor sounds louder than normal. Youll need to check the impeller in the pump. Make sure the shaft seal on the pump is not leaking. You either have a leak, restriction in the system or a bad impeller or failing pump motor.
- Q: Okay so earlier, I went to go test out my water pump and all on my 66 mustang 302. And I got it up to normal operating temp, and had the rad cap off. I gave it some gas, the coolant level didn't go down, instead it came out the rad pretty badly. I've been having overheating problems, and I have no leaks, i just replaced the thermostat a few days ago, it didn't help. I haven't seen any leaks around the weep hole on the water pump, or noises. Other than a belt that does need to be tightened a bit, you can hear the belt squeling a tiny bit. So do yall think it could be my water pump?
- if at an idle you see coolant flowing in the radiator, the pump is ok... More info is needed here really, assuming you don't ever have to add coolant though... I'd flush the system... if you do add coolant and find no leaks around the engine (weep hole, hoses, freeze plug) check the passenger side floorboard for moisture, the heater core may be shot...
- Q: I would like to know how difficult it is to change a water pump on my mustang? Is it something I can do by myself? I do know about cars and can perform general maintenance, I am not totally ignorant to whats going on underneath the hood of my car I'm just not sure if I have the tools needed and how difficult it is to do. What tools do I need? Do I need a torque wrench? If anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. Thanks!
- sable wasn't a real bad car for the most part. Personally I am not a ford man but if the vehicle has buckets of rust and lots of miles then yes this water pump is the sign of what's to come. Breakdowns that is.
- Q: I recently bought a 01 firebird trans am. was doing some maintenance on it. basic stuff, tune up, serpentine belt, break flush, and a coolant flush. I didn't notice any leakage in the car, and neither did any mechanics before. Last week when i did all these basic maintenance i went back to check up on one more thing. The mechanic raised my car up and asked when I'm replacing my water pump.Seeing that it was leaking...but the liquid wasn't green, more or less brown and it didn't have any particular smell, but its not coming from the oil pan. What I'm thinking is that maybe the hoses were completely tightened? All help would be appreciated! thank you!
- First step is to check all fluid levels. Was the coolant level low? Want to know if the water pump is leaking then do a cooling system pressure test; it will tell you if the engine has any external leak, including the water pump, a majority of the time the pressurized coolant will leak out at the Weep hole at the water pump or gasket. When you open the radiator cap to perform a cooling system pressure test the look at the coolant or whatever inside and see if that Liquid is the same color of the Suspected liquid that you think is leaking. You can buy a flushing cooling system kit and the cleaning chemical at any auto part store and see if you can clean out the cooling system. It'll depend on how much Rusty the liquid look like, you may have to do it several times. Replace with proper mixture of coolant/ Antifreeze. HTH.
- Q: Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!
- I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean
- Q: 2004 chevy impala 3.4 v6 The small leak is right behind the pulley of the water pump. Car is not overheating .the leak is only for a little while then it stops . water pump seems to be working fine but the leak ,what could it be ?
- Unfortunately, this quite often requires a new pump. It can be feasible (however not going) that the gasket is leaking - extra probably, the seal around the pulley shaft is the hindrance. Substitute is the one choice. Almost always, that is done while because the timing belt - has this been executed yet? If it was once executed before you obtained the car, its viable they tried to save lots of a few bucks via skipping the water pump. This is in most cases a foul move - the pump as a rule wears out at in regards to the same time - but it's cheaper, if they have been planning on getting rid of the car quickly. And when you consider that one quite often needs to be removed to access the other...You get the thought. Excellent success!
- Q: I am about to replace the timing belt in a 3.4L Toyota V6 at approximately 85,000 miles. The motor has had the Toyota red coolant, which lubricates a water pump very well. Should I, Or should I not replace a Toyota Water Pump also, at this mileage (85,000)? Could the original water pump last until 170,000? Thank you
- It's recommended to change the water pump also because your labor cost to open the engine to change the belt, is the exact cost of any future labor cost to change the water pump which, will go bad, eventually. The original pump could last until 170,000 miles but why chance it when the engine is already opened up.
- Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
- Nothing okorder and check out what will work best for you. I hope this helps and I love early '70's Lemans', Tempest's and GTO's so cool car bro.
- Q: the question i have is can the pump be turning and not leaking but not pump water??? i know the olden days (the good ole days) as long as the impeller was turning it would pump water! leaking seal is when it went bad,or locked up..like a box fan blade as long as it is turning its moving air...
- I would first check to see if there is any circulation in the radiator, with motor cold and the radiator cap off start the engine and wait about 10 min watching the radiator opening there should be some circulation if not then you probably have a bad water pump or a stuck thermostat that is stuck closed
- Q: I would like a website that has pictures but any info would be helpful...
- If its a 2003, you should still have a warranty on the powertrain unless its over 50,000 miles, or so. If indeed the water pump is leaking, you'd be foolish to leave it go; the timing belt can get wet, the belt and jump time and cause engine damage, that would be very expensive!! Save your self a lot of grief later by going ahead and replacing the water pump now; if you feel you're not up to the job, then have someone who knows VW's do it for you. Also replace the timing belt at the same time. An attempts to try and do a temporary measure will be met with an expensive result; a leaking water pump can also suck air into the cooling system and cause a hot spot, which could blow the headgasket, especially on a turbo model VW. Sorry, to tell you this, but its better to fix it now and save money, time, and pain later. I spent 25 years on/off in VW dealership service departments from 1980 till Dec of 2005. A car nut.
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Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump for Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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