High Chrome Anti-abrasive Slurry Centrifugal Pump

High Chrome Anti-abrasive Slurry Centrifugal Pump System 1

High Chrome Anti-abrasive Slurry Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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1. Description

Industrial centrifugal ah slurry pump

Cantilevered, horizontal, centrifugal,single stage slurry pump

2. Application

the slurry pumps are designed for handling abrasive, high density slurries in the metallurgical, mining, coal, power, building material and other industrial departments.

3. Features

Long bearing life: The bearing assembly is with large diameter shaft and short overhang.
Wear resistant and anti-abrasion wet parts: The wet parts can be made of hard metal (24-28% Chrome alloy)or pressure molded rubber.They are completely interchangeable with each other.More materials are also available.
Easily replaceable liners: Liners are bolted to the casing.
Simple maintenance throat-bush: the mating face of the throat bush is tapered, so the wear is reduced and removal is simple.
Easy adjustment of impeller: An impeller adjustment mechanism is provided below the bearing housing.
High efficiency and high head design are also available.
Centrifugal seal,mechanical seal and packing seal are available.

4. Other Pictures

High Chrome Anti-abrasive Slurry Centrifugal Pump

5. FAQ

1 Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2 Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3 Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: The water is being put in because it was overheating. We changed the thermostat and everything and it got better, but about a month later it started overheating again and now it is leaking water bad from underneath the car. Whatever is leaking is covered by a shield thing. Im not sure what it is, and I dont want to replace it before I know if thats really what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.: If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.

Q: My fiance's 2002 Cougar is overheating and we can't seem to diagnose the problem. As soon as she touches the gas pedal, the meter shoots to quot;Hquot;, but when we sit at a red light, it returns to center. I tried googling a few things and I've gotten a few things about the water pump, but I know next to nothing about cars. Where is it so I can look at it and feel dumb about STILL not being able to do anything? =D: Leave the water pump alone! It sounds to me like your gauge is malfunctioning. Every so often an electrical gauge will fail and give strange readings. It could either be the sensor that reads your coolant temp or the gauge body itself. Your car cannot go from overheating to fine while stationary at a red light. Take it to a shop (that specializes in electrical, they're out there) and tell them the temp gauge is acting wacky. If you INSIST to know the location of your water pump...should be on the passenger side of the car mounted to the engine. It's either driven by an accessory belt or the timing belt, I can't remember at the moment. Here's a trick also. Water pumps are designed to leak when they fail. See if you can find coolant spilling out of anywhere a few ounces at a time. Good luck!

Q: Okay, I have a 1982 Suzuki Dt8 that someone gave me. But it will not pump water well, when you reve it it will have a little watter shoot out the water outlit, but heres the thing. if you take the cover off be the shift linkage and run the engin it will pump water through just fine: I've passed on answering your question a couple times, mainly because I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. So let me ask. In the water does the engine overheat? I'm not sure that what you are looking at isn't the relief hole and not the water discharge, which should be under water. How are you supplying water to your engine? Are you running in a barrel? The water pump should be replaced every 2-3 years, so unless you are going to do it yourself, take it to a shop and explain what you are observing. Taking the cowling off will have no effect on the water pump, so I'm guessing you are looking at the wrong place. P.S. This was a common error with Evinrude small motors back in the 70's and 80's, motors similar to yours. The exhaust fin was just behind the propeller. not higher up the leg

Q: I would like information to use an automotive water pump to ( or possibly another device ) to pump water approximately 60 feet (20 meters) elevation from creek without electricity. I only need enough water for 25 chickens. So we are not talking about a households supply of water.: You need a lot more information than that. My first question is: how do you intend to operate a pump of any kind without electricity? Another piece of information needed for this is how far the chickens will be kept from the creek. Required change in elevation is a factor, but so is the length of pipe through which the water will be pumped. Pumping water farther leads to more energy lost due to friction which means you need a larger pump to maintain the same flow rate. Diameter and material of pipe is also a factor, along with bends and expansions/contractions. Since you don't need exact values for this... the flow rate required wouldn't even need to be 5 gal per day. That's just a trickle of water, so basically any pump capable of pumping water up 60 feet through however long your pipe (probably PVC) will be, would probably be enough to maintain drinking water for your chickens. That being said... if this is near your house, why don't you just run a water hose out there? Put a cap on the hose, drill a small hole in the cap and leave the valve to the hose turned on all the time. You could test it by seeing how long it takes to fill up a gallon or something...

Q: for the water pump in MY car that he has been using for his job!! He has threatned that the water pump cost $400 - 500 dollars but I didn't hear abut that when it was done!!! We are breaking up and it is My car but he says that he is taking te water pump out! Can he do that??? We also ave a daughte but I will ask about that later!! TRUST ME!!! I need to know about Custody Battles in Anoka or Hennipin County, Monnesota, 55433!!!! Please Help!!!!!!!!: Using a drill, drill a gap within the middle of the damaged bolt. If it is a a million/two inch bolt, use a three/eight or five/sixteen bit. If its a five/sixteen bolt, use a three/sixteen or eleven/sixty four bit, you get the proposal. Just go away sufficient sidewall of the bolt for the E-Z OUT to seize Make certain you middle the gap as first-rate you'll. Using a hammer and a sharpened punch to make a opening dimple makes it less complicated. Drill the gap to approximately a million/two inch deep. Go to any vehicle constituents retailer. Tell them you wish to have an E-Z OUT stud remover. Make certain it's the proper diameter for the gap you drilled. An E-Z OUT is a tapered bit with ridges spiraling down it is period within the reverse course than the threads of the bolt you're making an attempt to take away. Insert the E-Z OUT within the gap and switch counter-clockwise utilizing an adjustable wrench. Hopefully it is not caught to unhealthy and can pop out with ease. The most effective different choice is to drill the entire bolt out and re-thread the block. Good Luck. Wish I might do it for you. It is not intricate. If you may have anyone do it for you, do not get ripped off. A ethical and descent mechanic can do that in as low as five mins and is not going to cost you anymore than $20. There's most effective $five valued at of work in it, however mostly you ought to pay for proficiency. Hope this is helping.

Q: I just had my water pump replaced and a coolant flush. 35 miles later, my MAL light came on and my mechanic said my thermostat needs replacement. Should this have been done with the water pump work, or could the work have caused the thermostat problem?: Yes he should have replaced it. It was pretty stupid for him not to replace it. Everything was taken apart and the thermostat was right there. Now he's going to undo everything he did, have you pay more for gaskets and coolant, replace what he should have replaced in the first place and then put it back together while your without a car for a few more days. If I were you I'd find a competent mechanic.

Q: think the water pump is behind the crank pulley but im not certain I've pulled apart the front end but I'm having a hard time getting the pulley off so I want to make sure the part im trying to pull off is not the wrong one.: Well as far as I can tell you may not have to remove the crankshaft pulley but I could be wrong. You will however have to remove the timing belt and you might as well replace it anyway since you're in this far. I unfortunately I don't have enough details as the one I did was several years ago.

Q: I have a 2002 honda civic with 85k miles the dealer says the timing belt should be replaced. But with the water pump timing belt tensioner also have to be replaced???: The timing belt drives the water pump in your car. To replace the water pump, you have to remove the timing belt. When you are having the timing belt replaced, it makes sense to also replace the water pump. There is very little additional labor to do so, as the timing belt is already removed. You do not have to do so, but if you do not, and the water pump subsequently fails, you will be paying the full labor charge to replace it rather than just the cost of the part. As to the belt tensioner, I would replace that because it is a wear item, and if it fails it can cause a timing belt failure. If you are going to risk the timing belt failing (and causing major damage to the engine) you might as well not have the belt replaced. I would never replace a timing belt without also replacing the water pump and tensioner. It is false economy to do so.

Q: ok im ready to install my new water pump but it has to gasket in the package i no where one goes it shapes to the water pump but i dont no if the other one is used, and also where does the o ring go in the big hole in the center does it have to be pushed down into a seem or something and do the to out side holes need o rings as well, and does the hermonic balancer seal need to b replaced: The water pump should come off the block with 4 bolts, the gasket goes between the body and rear plate. The o- ring fits onto the transfer tube that travels between the valley of the block. Add a little lube to it to make installing the pump and cover easier. The lower t belt gear should slide off easily, if not a bit of heat may help, careful not to break the oil pump (front end of block). The upper cam gears are best loosened slightly while the belt is still installed. If not try slipping the old belt over the gear and holding the outside of the gear/ the belt. Air tools may be required due to torque required.

Q: I'm curious to know, where does the water go after it is sent to a pumping station??: Potable (drinkable) water pumps placed just outside the treatment plant boost pressure in the water mains, where it eventually gets to homes, businesses and hydrants via the pipe network. Most sewers flow by gravity (downhill) to a waste water treatment plant (or septic field). But if an area is too low to be serviced by a gravity sewer, an ejector pump is set at the bottom of a collection well which pumps the wastewater to a higher elevation in a pressure pipe called a force main. A good pump station will kick on about 4 or 5 times an hour and run for several minutes. Eventually it outlets to a manhole in a gravity system and ultimately the treatment plant.

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