Electric Submersible Discharge Sewage Pump (WQ)
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
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WQ Sewage Submersible Pump
Application
WQ series submersible sewage pumps are widely used in agriculture, architecture, mine, environment protection and industry, such as drainage slurry, waste water, which contained short fibre, waste paper, sand and so on. It is also an ideal equipment for irrigation.
Working Condition
Working Medium: No-corrosion Dirty water
Sand content: Less than 25%
Medium PH: 6.5-8.5
Water temperature: Less than40°c
Sand size: Less than 18mm
Attention
submersible depth is less than 5m, wholly submersible into water ,but not submersible into mud.
MODEL | POWER | FLOW | HEAD | VOLTAGE | OUTLET | |
KW | HP | M3/H | M | V | INCH | |
50WQ8-11-0.55 | 0.55 | 0.75 | 8 | 11 | Single phase220V/50Hz | 2" |
50WQ10-12-0.75 | 0.75 | 1 | 10 | 12 | ||
50WQ10-15-1.1 | 1.1 | 1.5 | 10 | 15 | ||
50WQ8-24-1.1 | 8 | 24 | ||||
50WQ10-12-0.75 | 0.75 | 1 | 10 | 12 | Three phase 380V/50HZ | 2" |
50WQ10-15-1.1 | 1.1 | 1.5 | 10 | 15 | ||
50WQ8-24-1.1 | 8 | 24 | ||||
50WQ15-15-1.5 | 1.5 | 2 | 15 | 15 | ||
50WQ10-34-2.2 | 2.2 | 3 | 10 | 34 | ||
50WQ9-22-2.2 | 9 | 22 | ||||
64WQ25-15-2.2 | 25 | 15 | 2.5" | |||
75WQ40-10-2.2 | 40 | 10 | 3" | |||
100WQ50-7-2.2 | 50 | 7 | 4" | |||
50WQ12-40-3 | 3 | 4 | 12 | 40 | 2" | |
50WQ15-30-3 | 15 | 30 | 2" | |||
64WQ25-22-3 | 25 | 22 | 2.5" | |||
75WQ40-14-3 | 40 | 14 | 3" | |||
100WQ60-9-3 | 60 | 9 | 4" | |||
50WQ12-50-4 | 4 | 5.5 | 12 | 50 | 2" | |
50WQ15-35-4 | 15 | 35 | 2" | |||
64WQ25-28-4 | 25 | 28 | 2.5" | |||
75WQ40-18-4 | 40 | 18 | 3" | |||
100WQ60-14-4 | 60 | 14 | 4" | |||
50WQ12-60-5.5 | 5.5 | 7.5 | 12 | 60 | 2" | |
50WQ15-45-5.5 | 15 | 45 | 2" | |||
64WQ30-30-5.5 | 30 | 30 | 2.5" | |||
75WQ40-24-5.5 | 40 | 24 | 3" | |||
100WQ60-18-5.5 | 60 | 18 | 4" | |||
150WQ100-7-5.5 | 100 | 7 | 6" | |||
50WQ12-72-7.5 | 7.5 | 10 | 12 | 72 | 2" | |
75WQ40-30-7.5 | 40 | 30 | 2.5" | |||
100WQ65-22-7.5 | 65 | 22 | 4" | |||
150WQ100-12-7.5 | 100 | 12 | 6" | |||
150WQ145-9-7.5 | 145 | 9 | 6" | |||
64WQ25-50-11 | 11 | 15 | 25 | 50 | 2.5" | |
75WQ40-40-11 | 40 | 40 | 3" | |||
100WQ60-30-11 | 60 | 30 | 4" | |||
100WQ80-25-11 | 80 | 25 | 4" | |||
150WQ100-22-11 | 100 | 22 | 6" | |||
150WQ150-12-11 | 150 | 12 | 6" | |||
200WQ200-9-11 | 200 | 9 | 8" | |||
65WQ30-60-15 | 15 | 20 | 30 | 60 | 2.5" | |
75WQ40-60-15 | 40 | 60 | 3" | |||
100WQ60-40-15 | 60 | 40 | 4" | |||
100WQ80-35-15 | 80 | 35 | 4" | |||
150WQ100-30-15 | 100 | 30 | 6" | |||
150WQ150-20-15 | 150 | 20 | 6" | |||
200WQ220-12-15 | 220 | 12 | 8" |
- Q: 1998 Honda civic water pump plastic or metal inside (OEM)?
- metal trough out.
- Q: My Toyota 2006 Sienna has 80K miles on it and I asked the dealer to inspect the vehicle. He suggested that i replace Timing Belt, Water Pump, Drive Belt and Trans Pan Gasket. The cost of the repair comes to $1300 ($460 for Timing Belt, $350 for Water Pump, $140 for Drive Belt $370 for Pan Gasket).I'm caught by surprise with the price quoted and things to be replaced. Is the price quoted reasonable? Are these replacement common for Sienna vehicle with 80K miles? I don't know what could possibly go wrong if these are not changed for couple of months. I have an extended warranty on the vehicle for 100K miles will any of the above get covered under warranty?Any suggestions or advice is highly appreciated/
- Yes, I agree with the others and follow the 90,000 mile rule and have never had a major problem with the 5 Toyotas we have bought from brand new and the longest we have ever kept was 1993 Toyota Camry LE with 211,000 miles that we gave away when my wife and her sisters all insisted on SUVs and she upgraded to 2005 Toyota Highlander 6 cylinder AWD. FYI in addition to timing belt package and water pump, I also have my mechanic replace the thermostat and both fan belts. Finding a good mechanic who has the skills and know-how and works on all kinds of Japanese vehicles is the 1st Major Step. Mine worked a long time ago at the local Toyota dealer and I have seen/witnessed him 1st hand tear down and put back engines transmissions and though his rate slowly creeps up, I stayed with him with 20 years and see him for advice whenever I noticed anything unusual. FYI on timing belt replacements, I put together a list of parts for my mechanic to confirm these are the genuine Toyota parts I need, then there are 2 Toyota dealers in Texas: Toyota of Dallas and Toyota of Richardson TX that sell about 30% discount off of MSRP plus UPS fee and anything I miss or overlooked I let the service station get from the dealer. Regarding the transmission, I simply drain the ATF every 30,000 miles and refill with genuine Toyota ATF fluid and once when I was busy my mechanic did it for $30 plus the Toyota ATF Fluid. Hope the Above info Helps!
- Q: Weap seal is starting to leak and getting some noise from the water pump. These cars are not as easy as a 1969 Camaro to change the water pump. Can you please give me some guidance? Thx in advance.
- The water pump is interior the middle of the front of engine and is pushed via the timing belt. There are brackets and covers, plus cooling followers and so on, to eliminate earlier attending to the pump. no longer a undesirable interest, and way much less annoying than doing the two head gaskets on that ingredient.
- Q: Ok, so I have a 1997 3.8 liter ford mustang. I was driving home from work the other day, when temp gauge started to go up. I brought it to mechanic, and he said it was a bad water pump, due to bad antifreeze. So I am getting a new pump, and an antifreeze flush. My question is that since it overheated, will there be any damage to the engine? The temperature gauge never hit the red, and smoke never came out. I had to drive it for approx 15-20 miles when it started to overheat, and the temp gauge was bouncing from hot to normal.
- Overheating your engine is never good , but are you certain it was actually overheated or just a loose wire, faulty thermostat or other giving erratic readings.. If the Engine did not SMELL hot, if the engine performance did not change, if it did not overheat to the extreme...and quickly, it was probably NOT the water pump. Too, it probably did not damage the engine if it was overheated only to the degree that you say. I would wonder about the water pump scenario. Is it possible that you were in extended stop and go traffic in hot weather, and/or your radiator fluid was low and basically getting air in the system.? I hope your mechanic is competent and honest, and the problem was as he said. Usually there is NO Question in the symptoms that the Engine is overheated (regardless of gauge reading). The OIL would get very thin and HOT as well. Just wondering. Good luck.. P.S. I just read Avatar Country Boy's response after I submitted mine. He has some good advice too. I would add that if the engine ever overheats and loses water (or needs water) DONT EVER POUR WATER INTO A HOT OVERHEATED ENGINE !!!!! If you got the radiator cap off in the first place without getting scalded or WORSE, if you try to add water it WILL essentially EXPLODE back in your face as it hits super heated cooling system parts, and most likely crack your engine block, and/or warp your engine heads...serious engine damage. Instead, let it cool completely Again...Good luck..
- Q: I moved into a house on a rural property in January, and we live off tank water and have a Grunfos PT18 pumping all our water into the house.The problem is, not all the time, but alot of the time my pump stays on after having a shower, the motor keeps running and restarting continuously as if it is desperately trying to pump more water through, until I go underneath my house and literally turn it off at the powerpoint, wait for a bit then turn it back on. I am scared if I leave the motor keep going like that it will burn my pump out. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix this problem, or why it may be doing this, or is something causing it?Thankyou in advance, from someone who has next to no knowledge about pumps!!
- Just adding a little more info to Corkeys list. Your foot valve could be stuck open and the water is draining back to the well. You will have to pull up the well line and replace the foot valve.
- Q: My pump is almost 4 years old, work normal till recently I noticed sand mixed water flowing out of the delivery pipe. What should I do to make it normal again?
- Try raising the pump a couple of feet. You may eventually need the well cleaned out.
- Q: I have a 1990 js550 that i picked up for a project. When in the water it overheats and minimal water comes out the tell tail. When on the tap it runs fine no overheating, so i disconnected the hose from the back of the ski where it sucks the water in and ran a garden hose directly to it. And the ski ran fine.I also cleaned all the tubes out with air.I am not getting enough water flow through the ski when it is in the water. Is there a water pump inside the motor?There is definitely no blockages, there is just no enough pressure to keep it cool.Thanks
- Hey Sam, It's Jeff again. I used to own a stand-up ski a while back, and I had the same problem. The water to the motor comes from the jet pump, the more RPM, the more pressure, There should be enough pressure to keep the motor cool at low RPM, but if not then there are a couple of things to check. Since you already eliminated a blockage in the motor buy disconnecting the pickup, first check the actual pickup for a restriction from the entrance to the connection you took the hose off at. If that's OK, then the clearance in the jet pump itself could be excessive. A ski with a lot of hours in sandy water can have pump wear that isn't really noticeable when cruising, you might notice it a little under heavy acceleration when leaving the no wake zone. Under idle there just isn't enough pressure to cool the motor. You can have it fixed for not to much, a little hard to do yourself. To save a planned day on the lake you can always get a cheep inline electric water pump. My last thought though, since your other question was about a slow cranking starter, I'd pull the plugs and spin it over to see if it spits water out the cylinders. It doesn't hurt just to eliminate a blown head gasket. As a side note, I like them a lot better then the big sit-down style, they're much more free then the bigger ones. It's like the difference between a motorcycle and a car. If you want to do the stuff the bigger ones do, buy a boat.
- Q: i'm trying to make a small water fountain, i have a tiny motor that i can use, but i dont know how to use it to make the water go up :( haha heeeelpthanks in advance:)
- I doubt that your motor is waterproof. You would do better to just purchase one of the many fountain pumps all ready available at many home improvement centers or online. They are water proof and have the pump and motor all in one enclosure.
- Q: Whats the difference between a faulty water pump and head gasket? The coolant reservoir has a quot;bubblingeffect when the car is running. I just changed the radiator and filled it. Most of whats in the radiator is water honestly. The car sounds a little rough and sputtery like a head gasket. The spark plugs are dry and I took the cover off and nothing looked watery or moisturous. I also had to change the head and head gasket a month ago. The head gasket didn't have any damage to it so I assumed the head was bad. I used a new head gasket also. Anything else I can check? The car is a 91 corolla.
- If you had a faulty water pump, your car would overheat. Check to see what's blowing out of your exhaust pipe. If you have any smoke coming out of there WHILE you're driving, you have a faulty head gasket or it was installed improperly. Are you losing coolant? If so you might want to by a kit that can determine if you have a head gasket leaking or a cracked block or head. You also could have air in the system and need to bleed the cooling system.
- Q: OK so i am new to RVing....I have an older 1971 trailer pull forester....It has a your normal fresh water inlet on the outside of the trailer, fresh water tank, and water pump. My question is actual a double part question #1 When i screw the hose on the inlet and start filling the water tank i hear it going in but i still have no water coming out the faucet...Does this have to do with the water pump? why am not getting water to anything except i hear the tank filling up?!?#2 Is the Water pump A/C or D/C......I have that little pull knob (that i guess turns it on or off) and i was curious if i needed to be hooked up to the Battery in front to make this work? or should it work with the regular AC that everything else is working on?Thanks for any help
- If U basically establish it seem on the arrows for water pass. If no longer than make beneficial it has water attending to ti and not close off or leaking line. There are exams U can do on the pump to verify if it extremely is working like a hose right into a bucket of water and notice if it pumps.
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Electric Submersible Discharge Sewage Pump (WQ)
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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