• DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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1.Structure of DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

very easy to be installed and maintained

Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Specification

 

Material

Cast iron

Pump diameter

350-1600mm

Flow range

1~200L/s

Pressure range

0.2~2.25MPa

Motor power range

1.5~200kW

Inlet/outlet Diameter

DN50~DN200mm

 

Casing

Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Impeller

Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Shaft

ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional

Shaft Seal

Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional

 

Flow rate

2-1100m3/h

Head

2-152m

Speed

1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz)

Working Pressure

1.6PMa or 2.0PMa

 

4.Picture of DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

 

 

 

Q: My 2001 300M is behaving oddly. Occasionally it will gradually overheat after I have driven around for 15 or so minutes. Yes, occasionally. I took it to my mechanic who changed the thermostat and hoses. I then drove it on a trip on the interstate and over a mountain (140 miles ) It was fine with no signs of overheating. Then the next day when I drove to work in the city, the stop and go traffic had it overheating near the end of the trip. I've been able to keep it from going in the red by using the heater. After this happened most of the days, but not all, I took it back to the shop. He reported that the fans were working correctly and the only thing he could come up with is a weak water pump. He stated that when it did get hot, he was able to bring the temp down just by rev'ing the engine a little.Does that sound right? Any other ideas and how to test?
I've okorder
Q: i replace all the seals on the water pump reinstalled it and the same thing happened... it leaks out the bottom some where and run down the water pump and down the hot side radiator hose... any ideas?
Chevy 350 Water Pump
Q: I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.
Its possible go find yourself a four foot piece of hose and put it right on top of the water pump with the car running and stick your ear to the other end. you will hear the bearing if its going bad, it could also be the alternator, but, if you have a Serpentine belt odds are its the belt tension er and this thing goes bad often. If it has a belt tension er, may as well replace the belt too. good luck
Q: I want to either get a kit to rebuild the water pump or just by the entire assembly, but im not sure which water pump/kit that i will need for a 1997 mercury 25 hp 2 stroke.Serial Number 0G474648,1997 year,model is 25el according to transom plate.Any help will be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.
Well to start of, and two, A 25 hp does not have a water pump, like a car, it has am impeller driven by the out board motors gear system
Q: i have the power max xp652 water pump, 2 inch inlet and outlet, 6.5 horsepower, and says it can reach 100 psi. now i bought the pump so i can use it for my mobile detailing business, the problem is im barely getting 40 psi out the end and its not very much water to wash a car with. Im using a two inch suction hose to get it in, then right after the outlet i reduced it down to 3/4 inch into a 50 ft. garden hose. this only got me 40 psi and the nozzle was basically just spitting it out, so i tried using 50 ft. of 1/4 inch pressure washer hose and it didnt change anything still 40 psi. so please if there is any way i can up the psi, please tell me any ideas are good. i dont know if its just because i reduced it down too quick or if my suction hose is too big. someone who is into hydraulics please help.
I don't know anything about the xp652 , but if this pump goes in a well you also need a pressure tank and then a preassure switch , the pump starts it you the get a tank , if your tank has a bladder it will probably be preset at 30 psi but thats not where you get your pressure the switch has two little screws one will set how hard she blasts ( thats where your pump comes in) the other one sets how low your pressure gets before the pump turns on again , But if the xp652 is an outside system , ( outside of your regular weter pumping system then , Never mind .
Q: I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.
that completely depends on the year/make and model, and type of gasket that it uses.
Q: how do you change the water pump
Replacing the water pump requires removing the timing belt because it is timing belt driven, so the timing belt should be changed at the same time. Standard practice is to replace the water pump when the belt is changed to avoid duplicate labor later.
Q: I moved into a house on a rural property in January, and we live off tank water and have a Grunfos PT18 pumping all our water into the house.The problem is, not all the time, but alot of the time my pump stays on after having a shower, the motor keeps running and restarting continuously as if it is desperately trying to pump more water through, until I go underneath my house and literally turn it off at the powerpoint, wait for a bit then turn it back on. I am scared if I leave the motor keep going like that it will burn my pump out. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix this problem, or why it may be doing this, or is something causing it?Thankyou in advance, from someone who has next to no knowledge about pumps!!
Grundfos Pumps Problems
Q: should replace timing belt & water pump on a newly purchased used vehicle..if no records of last x changed?
It is wise to seek advise from professional mechanics as to what process you are considering to do with this vehicle. This vehicle is 2013-1994= 19/20 years old presumably in service since 1994. The miles you report as under 160,000 miles. You inquire as if you are inexperienced in automotive affairs. Well, here is my experience speaking. Any vehicle over 100,000 miles is to be suspect of wear and tear and even abuse by prior owners and they require inspection and evaluation. Engines are to be checked for compression and leaks, electrical system, corrosion, engine mounts, exhaust, transmission, coolant system, etc. etc. etc. Only a trained mechanic can do this. Unless you have receipts, records at a dealership, etc. as evidence of service and repairs, then all parts are original. You ask as to the timing chain. I expand to include everything proposing short of an engine rebuild. Cars do a lot of work and suffer deterioration each second the motor runs and each inch the car moves over the earth. IF there an inspection plate or port that provides for a viewing of the condition of the timing belt, a mechanic will know. My car, a 2001 Audi TT has that feature. Now, imagine the purchase price of this Toyota, add the expense of the inspection and possible repairs such as the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant replacement, possible a new radiator, suspension parts, exhaust parts, etc. in need of replacement, etc. and it is up to you to decide IF this vehicle is worth the expense for no matter how money you spend, the retail market value shall remain the same. That means around $2,500 to $2,700. This vehicle, as new, was not and is not now, a fuel efficient vehicle with an average MPG of 14 MPG on a good day. I do not know as to your driving needs but at 60 MPH and 14 MPG that mean each 14 miles $3.50, average, goes out the tail pipe for a nice $14.00 per HOUR cost on fuel. Kind of expensive. You choice and decision. Good luck.
Q: What is the difference between a low pressure pump and a high pressure pump?
The specific speed of the high pressure pump is relatively smaller than the speed.Lift is not the same, the same flow, high pressure pump head high.Pump and shaft materials are not the same, high pressure pump raw material demand is higher, to be able to accept greater pressure and torque.The size is different, the pump body of high pressure pump is larger.Bearings can also be different, low pressure pumps are rolling bearings, and high pressure pump power, then some pumps are selected sliding bearings.The support method can also be different, the low-pressure pump is the pump foot support, but the high pressure pump can be the intermediate support.

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