• DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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1.Structure of DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

very easy to be installed and maintained

Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Specification

 

Material

Cast iron

Pump diameter

350-1600mm

Flow range

1~200L/s

Pressure range

0.2~2.25MPa

Motor power range

1.5~200kW

Inlet/outlet Diameter

DN50~DN200mm

 

Casing

Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Impeller

Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Shaft

ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional

Shaft Seal

Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional

 

Flow rate

2-1100m3/h

Head

2-152m

Speed

1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz)

Working Pressure

1.6PMa or 2.0PMa

 

4.Picture of DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

DIN Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

 

 

 

Q:Im looking at putting a cabin on my property. I have a 200 gallon underground fresh water tank and i'm needing a pump to get the water into the cabin. i want to run a toilet, sink and possibly a shower. does anyone know the style of pump i would need that would only operate when i need it to that way it does not burn up.
I had a jet pump to run my whole house on my farm. It was placed in the basement, but it could be in a back room, too and they are pretty quiet these days. Does it freeze inside the cabin? I assume not. having it inside means if you have trouble even in freezing weather you can work on it in comfort. The end of the pie into your water tank will need a foot valve to keep the pipe filled so you don't have to prime the pump ( not a handy thing to have to do all the time). Other than that, the system is operated with electricity and a pressure switch which is settable. It will not run all the time this way. Not sure anymore but, for example the switch might be set to come on at 50PSI and shut off at 125PSI. You can tell by the switch or get a recommendation from the store where you buy it. (see pictures in link) Menard's sells these and department workers are trained to answer all your questions about installation, parts, and what you need,etc.
Q:how do you change the water pump
When you change the timing belt you as well change the water pump as well. If you take it to anyone for timing belt change they will ask you if you want to change water pump because its convenient to change it out at that time. But if you dont have any knowledge how to work with the timing dont mess with it take it to someone who is knows what there doing because paying couple hundred dollars is better then paying thousands for engine rebuild or new engine.
Q:does any one know where the water pump is located on a 97 nissan altima? and where can i find one, would pep boys have one?
most cars, it is in the front, driven by the timing belt. If you are going to replace the pump, replace the timing belt also (if there is one), as it's probably overdue, and you have to remove it to get at the water pump. Also the tensioner. Replacing the timing belt is a difficult task. If you screw it up, you could damage the engine. .
Q:I want to either get a kit to rebuild the water pump or just by the entire assembly, but im not sure which water pump/kit that i will need for a 1997 mercury 25 hp 2 stroke.Serial Number 0G474648,1997 year,model is 25el according to transom plate.Any help will be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.
Well to start of, and two, A 25 hp does not have a water pump, like a car, it has am impeller driven by the out board motors gear system
Q:noise when i acclerate you cant hear it as much because of engine noise but when its at idle the squealing noise is somewhat loud does anyone know what it could be ? its not the water pump because i bought it new and im not overheating and the belts arent too tight either i have already checked them
wow i loved my 72 chevelle! this kind of noise usually happens when one of the belts is not aligned properly. or one of the pulleys is not angled right. but if you didn't have the noise before i would suggest taking the belt on the water pump off and running the car briefly, if the noise goes away you've narrowed it to the water pump and its belt. sometimes though new pumps are noisy till they break in so this noise may go away after a while. enjoy that car. i hope this helps john
Q:There is a 5.5KW before the pump head is now 25 meters and flow of 20 cubic meters, but not up to the requirements, I think this is like with a motor pump, lift more than 20 meters, the flow is about 40 cubic meters of water pump, please inform the models and parameters, thank you
Model has: QS-250-40-21, lift 21m, flow 40 square, motor power is 4KW, water pump diameter is 232cmQJ-200-40-26, lift 26m, flow 40 square, motor power is 5.5KW, water pump diameter is 189cmYou can choose the right pump according to your well path.
Q:leaking coolant after the car engine has stoppped
if your water pump is leaking fluid -its bad period- it should never leak unless installed incorrectly--signs for bad pump are-noise-grab fan blade wiggle if shaft moves-bad pump-open cap on radiator-no water moving-bad pump-bad pump--
Q:We have a low area in our back yard. The previous owner had a pump installed. The flow switch is in the ground at the lowest point of the yard. The actual pump is 2 feet or so, higher up. We have not had to use it much. But last week, when we have the big storm, it stopped working. It some how worked again, but pumping a lot slower, then it stop pumping again. With this pump, I had to add water to get it primed. The last time I try to add water, the water drains instantly. Any one how what could be wrong with it? It was suggest a seal was broken. Thanks for your help.
If you say that the pump is 2 feet higher you must have a hose onthe suction side of the pump it probably has a foot valve on the end of the hose it must be hung open thats why when you try to prime the the the water flows thru check to see if there is any debris holding the check valve open if there is clean it out close the valve prime with water and try to pump
Q:I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?
The possibility that the thermostat is up side down comes to mind. Chevy water pumps have been known to loose an impeller, but the collapsing upper hose suggests a vacuum is being pulled, so I don't think it is the water pump.
Q:my basement flooded and the water came in contact with the wiring on my water pump.Now the pump tries to turn on but shuts off without pumping any water.How do i get my pump pumping water again?
sounds like not only did it come in contact withe wiring but also with the pump,when your working with electricity you need to be very careful and have the right tools to do the job with. to start this job you need a multi testing meter,this will let you check things like amp,volts,ohms,you know things that comes in contact with the pump and wiring,you didn't say what the voltage is on this pump,so first i'd find out what that is and make sure you have that going to the pump,then if so make sure the pump isn't froze or locked up,next go to the breaker box and locate the breaker for the pump,and test to see how many amps the pump is pulling when turned on.then find out if there is anything restricting the pump from doing its job,it may be something as simple as a run capacitor or even a shorted or burnt wire,but first make sure you have the correct voltage and amperage going to and coming out of the motor,once you get that taken care of you may need to prime the pump in order to get it pumping again

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