• Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump System 1
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Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump

Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Item specifice

Item:
Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Power:
Electric
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Sewage Pump

Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump


Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.

Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.

Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.

Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc.,

 have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and aftersales service, are performed according to the system management standard.


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100 WQ 50-30-3
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
3: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.



Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump



Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump

Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump




Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump


Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump

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Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump

Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump



 


 Trading market

Diesel The Engine Sewage Submersible Pump

Transportation

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Q:I just had my water pump replaced and a coolant flush. 35 miles later, my MAL light came on and my mechanic said my thermostat needs replacement. Should this have been done with the water pump work, or could the work have caused the thermostat problem?
Anytime I replace a water pump, intake gasket, or anything else where the coolant needs removal, I always suggest to my customers that we change the thermostat as well. Many times I just change it anyway. I tell the customers, but really don't offer an option! (of course if they say don't I will honor that, but no one has ever said that!) It is possible that during a flush some trash/scale got into the thermostat causing improper operation. With the thermostat removed, there is no restriction in the cooling system making flushing easier and more thorough. Now to answer your question, It is my opinion he SHOULD HAVE. That is not only an up-sell (even though I hate creating extra work) it is just an added value to the customer. He should also check belts and hoses, changing them (via customer approval) if needed. As a mechanic, the last thing I want is a comeback such as yours was because I at the very least didn't suggest a proper service!
Q:Any ideas on where and what type of water pump I should use for my 29 Gallon BioCube tank? It seems that the water pump is very loud and is not working the way it should. There are bubbles shooting the aquarium and I have tried everything to fix it. I am thinking of replacing the water pump all together. Any ideas on brands that would be compatible? Anyone else tried this? Please help...
ok before replacing have you cleaned the inside, and if there are air bubbles comming out it is because it is running dry. Basically all biocubes do this, the filter pad is slowing down the water too much, so either rince it well or replace it. Also i would wash out the blue sponge right before the pump as that can hold alot of dirt as well. Then if not add more water. But if you want to replace the pump, try via aqua water pumps. they tend to be the best. owner of the BC 29 and BC 14
Q:took car to meachanic on a friday drove home . mecahnic put in timing belt engine coolant water pump car on sunday leaking alot of green fluid and smoke coming from hood
WHATcountry are you FROM?? BAD use of english. They used WRONG type coolant and CHEAP parts and CHEAP gaskets! most cars do NOT USE GREEN COOLANTS any more. WHAT KIND OF CAR IS THIS! you MUST use ONLY the water pump and coolant from your DEALERSHIP! all other ones are a RIP OFF and your engine will FAIL earlier! DRIVE over ANY OIL CHANGE pit where they can SEE where your leak is COMING FROM! you MIGHT have to get this WHOLE JOB done again! and you MIGHT even have ENGINE DAMAGE in there by now! SORRY!!!
Q:How do the water pump work please till me water pump mechanism?
I assume you're asking about a car water pump. Inside of the pump casing is an impeller (a disc or wheel with vanes). The impeller is connected to a shaft that's connected to a pulley wheel driven by the drive belt from another pulley wheel mounted on the engine shaft. The pump, the radiator and the hoses make up a water filled, enclosed system. As the pump rotates when the engine is running, it circulates the water around the system removing heat from the engine and giving up the heat to the atmosphere through the radiator. ....
Q:my water pump is leaking and chirping would like to know the procedure
Drain the coolant. Remove fan clutch. Remove radiator shroud. Remove serpentine belt. Disconnect top and bottom radiator hoses. Disconnect bypass and heater hose. Remove the pump bolts. Remove the pump. Clean all old gasket material off block. Reverse to install! Be sure to use anaerobic sealer on the bolts that enter into the water passages. It's a good idea to replace the thermostat at this time, and flush the radiator and block, as well as use new coolant.
Q:I am trying to areting my pond but air pump cost too much. I have an extra water pump available if I make two intake opening, one for water the other for air, would it work? or will it blow up the pump and kill all of my koi because it is made for pump water.
In general an air pump a water pump are two different types of pump though if your pump is a fixed displacement type, say a diaphragm or piston type pump it could possibly be used to pump air. If your pump is a gear or centrifugal type it will not pump air as it is designed for liquids only. It might tolerate a small volume of air in it but you could end up with cavitation damage to the components the air could cause the pump to lose it's prime that is the air in the casing could make the pump lose suction. What you might be able to try is using a venturi on the pumps outlet. That way you could use your water pump to pump water use the venturi to draw air into the water flow. Without getting too scientific a venturi is a smooth restriction in the pipe that speeds up the fluid (in your case water) flow in doing so it reduces the pressure energy of the fluid turns it into velocity energy. If the restriction is sized right it can drop the pressure of the fluid below atmospheric it will draw air or some other fluid into the flow. Perhaps the easiest way you could do it would be to use a round piece of stainless steel or brass (it won't rust) that is small enough to fit into the pump outlet (I'm guessing you're using hoses) bore a hole along the centre of it then bore a very small hole at right angles to it fit it into the line. It might take a bit of experimentation to get the sizes right but it should suck a bit of air into the line at the same time recirculate the pond water. Make sure there are no restrictions downstream of the venturi as the water will come out of it rather than the air being drawn it. Hope this helps.
Q:coolant leaking from weep hole on water pump need to know what i need to remove to replace or should i call mechanic
Take an autoshop class.
Q:the pulley wheel fell off while i was driving and all of the pulleys turn except the two under the water pump pulley. does anyone know if that is supposed to spin by hand or will it only spin when the car is running?
Your water pump should definately be able to be spun by hand. Generally when a water pump goes, or starts to go, it will leak antifreeze and or you will be able to shake the pulley slightly. Double check and try to spin the water pump again without any belt tension on it. A water pump can go at any time however, if your car has less than like 80,000 miles on it, it's probably fine.
Q:I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?
Sorry, I thought I was answering this question before......is there 2 questions. Ok, the water is exhausted out the fin just above and behind the prop. The exhaust and water are both in the leg area where the shift rod is, so when you take the access plate off, you'll get some water and exhaust. You can't see the water coming out the exhaust port with the motor in a barrel. It's below the water line. And no the exhaust isn't being sucked back in the water pump, at least not enough to matter. There is a flush attachment that will feed water from a hose into the water pump. With the engine on a rack, or the boat out of the water, you can see where the exhaust and water come out. Running in a barrel isn't the best way to see anything. If you take the prop off it's easy to over rev. the motor. My advise is to put the motor on the boat in the water and start it. Check the engine block every couple min. for overheating. A little water dribbled on the head will sizzle, if it's getting to hot...if so shut it down, and recheck the water pump job. There is a tube that sticks in to the water pump housing. make sure it's in position.
Q:I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?
It;s the water pump.

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