• Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position with High Quality System 1
  • Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position with High Quality System 2
  • Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position with High Quality System 3
Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position with High Quality

Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position with High Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position

Basic Info.of Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position

Model NO.:SL500ZLB/Q-125

Pump Casing Combined:Verticaljoint Surface Pump

Impeller:Closed

Position of Pump Shaft:Vertical Pump

Usage:Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Mounting Height:Since Irrigation Centrifugal Pumps

Color:Blue or as Required

Capacity:400 ~ 80000 M3/H

Head:≤30m

Export Markets:Global


Additional Info.of Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position

Packing:Wooden Case

Standard:CE

Origin:China

Production Capacity:50, 000 PCS/Year


Description of Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position

ZLB type axial flow pump is characterized by its large capacity, low head, etc. It can transport clean water whose temperature is less than 50º C, and also other liquids with physical and chemical properties similar to clean water. 


Application Area of Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position

Large-small type axial flow is widely used in agricultural irrigation, water supply and drainage for city, circulation water for thermal power plant, water level for dock, aquaculture, salt field pool and other hydraulic projects. Large type axial flow is mainly used in a large area of agricultural irrigation, interbasin water transfer and drainage for low-lying area, lake area. 

Performance Range 

Diameter: 250 ~ 2000mm 

Capacity: 400 ~ 80000 m3/h 

Head: ≤ 30 m


FAQ

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?

A: Yes, the WQ models.

Q: How long is your warranty?

A: Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


Axial Flow Pump Vertical Position with High Quality

Q: If I were to go to a shop, how much would it cost to replace my water pump? It's a 4.0 6 cyl engine.
$70-$150 +cost of pump. Most shops have certain maintenance hours for certain jobs. Call around for exact pricing. Honestly, if you have a sockets (metric) and wrenches you can do it yourself in about an hour or two, maybe less. You don't have to mechanically inclind to replace the water pump on the 97 Wrangler. If you do it, I do recommend buying a Haynes/Chilton's book if you don't really have a clue. If you need to buy the tools, book, pump (gasket should come with it), water pump RTV, and coolant. That will still be a lot cheaper than paying somebody. Plus, you will get the joy of doing it yourself. Also, you could put the savings into a high-flow pump, vice original equipment.
Q: From the days of the laying of pipe line and trouble is far away, two or more people share the idea of a water pump, controlled by the electromagnetic valve, do not know whether it is feasible, attention should be paid to each of the power may be different phase, and it is the automatic control, automatic switching request all big brother big sister what the solution of power. At the same time, the electromagnetic valve is closed to others. Turn on your own solenoid valve StopThe idea is that each pumping with its own power, so you don't have to worry about sharing electricity.
Each contactor is connected with each power source in the main circuit, and the lower port is connected to the water pump;Control loop, only draw the wiring diagram of A households, households in other similar first power through the control switch in series contactor several other a normally closed contact and then enter the M contactor coil;In water, leading to various water pipes connected with the electromagnetic valve, and the solenoid valve are connected in series and the two contactor normally open contact is connected to the power supply;As long as one of the closed control switch, the pump will run at the same time, using his own power, and this is the other an open pump closed control switch of their own, will not work, the water will not go into his house, the family will not run electricity; only when the first home after closing the control switch second, if still closed control switch, water and electricity will automatically turn to him.Not understood, of course, that there is one drawback, if one is using a pump, a few other can not be used to solve the problems, it is not difficult, is that every installation of a water tank or like a floor, said each install a pressure tank on it
Q: What's the difference between a cold water pump and a hot water pump?
Cold water pump is generally packing seal, hot water pump is generally mechanical seal. If the cold water pump is used to transport hot water, the common trouble is that the shaft seal is easy to leak and the water pump is easy to damage. Generally in the design of building water supply and drainage, cold water pump and hot water pump can be selected according to the cold and hot water. Water supply and drainage design manual (common equipment) and pump manufacturers Water Pump samples can be found.
Q: Water pump motor often caused by water can not run, how can solve?
You are immersed in water or oil pump pump, if flooding do not be afraid, if you put oil thread wrapped with waterproof tape, general water pump inlet is in the end, you want what the price of copper or aluminum pumps, the price is basically the same, do not buy too cheap water pump
Q: I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.
Forget the check this and try that stuff. You need a RADIATOR SHOP the radiator is plugged and you can do nothing to clean it. Don't waste time on flushing as it is a waste. Water pumps have mechanical seals and require no lubrication and anti freeze contains no lubrication material. Plain water will not affect the pump. Never replace any part 'till you KNOW the problem
Q: Because the water pressure is too small, this summer with self suction pump 750W, water is big, but every time that water is used for the first time out of the water is yellow like rust, probably after the release of 10 liters will become clear, then is not, but every one hour after the water time out is rusty hair yellow, so to waste a lot of water, but accidentally brought cooked food should not be good to the body.Now come in the water is through the pump, even without electricity, partition time for the first time water will be yellow, there is no master can teach me to disassemble, which can be cleaned?. Or something else. Thank you
The reason for the yellow water in the water suction pump is that the steel pipe in the underground is corroded. The water flows out through the water during the pumping process, and yellow is mainly the color of rust.Processing method: pull out the steel pipe deep into the ground and replace it with plastic pipe.
Q: I have a water pump that works with 12V and 2 amps.I was thinking to get a potentiometer to be able to slow down the speed.Is this the best way to do it? What wattage should it have, so it doesn't burn out, and what should be the maximum resistance, to be able to stop the pump completely?And OKorder or product link would be great!Thanks!
A more efficient way would be to use a PWM controller which wastes less energy. Luckily these are available as modules now for motor speed control, so are plug and play with a variable control knob on the front. Just make sure you pick one suitable for your voltage range.
Q: Every time i turn off the engine i hear like liquid noises behind the dash board in the drivers side. My fan isnt working properly but i just took a trip...4 hours away.. on the highway the temperature would be fine but on regular streets my temperature goes high pretty fast..i have been putting anti freeze pretty often lately because it goes low but there is no signs of a leak anywhere. Could it just be that my fan isnt working properly or is it because the water pump is going bad? or both? I have a 93 Toyota celica
Not it's because you have a cracked cylinder head. Does the exhaust spew out a lot of white smoke? Edit: Having a blown head gasket does not explain the missing coolant. If you had a misfire or the engine was struggling a little then yes the head gasket would explain that. If you've never seen white smoke from the exhaust or under the hood, then I would say it is because the fan is not working properly. The gurgling that you hear is the boiling water going from the radiator to the reservoir tank. It is probably overfilling the reservoir tank and evaporating as well.
Q: As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price
Yes, I have done at least 100 of these water pumps. You are correct, remove the timing belt, cam gears and rear cover is the easiest route. I have done them without removing the rear metal shield all the way, and only removing the front cam gear as well. You can remove the front cam gear, and all 6 bolts to the rear shield and shift the cover enough to get the pump out from behind the cover. You shouldn't need to remove the water pump studs, but if you do get a set of stud removers. I bought a set from snap on for around $50 or so years ago. Sears also sells a set. You don't need a cam locking tool. You can make one out of a bar with two bolts through it to stop cam from rotating while you loosen the 17mm nut on the cam gear. I usually just use an impact gun on the bolt, and no tool is needed to hold it. Remember, the 1MZ-FE engine is an interference engine, and the timing belt must be aligned perfectly or the pistons WILL hit valves and engine will self destruct. If you are near ILlinois I can help with repairs if needed.
Q: 94 f150,302 engine. the water pump comes with 2 gaskets. one behind a metal plate on the pump and another for mounting it to the motor. my question is do you have to use sealant of any kind on both gaskets or can you just bolt it on?
gasket seal wouldn't hurt

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