• Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Almera 41060-1n060 D1060-1n090 System 1
  • Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Almera 41060-1n060 D1060-1n090 System 2
Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Almera 41060-1n060 D1060-1n090

Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Almera 41060-1n060 D1060-1n090

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

Q:I have a 1982 Yamaha xs 400 and the front brakes are not functioning, the motorcycle otherwise runs well. I was wondering what the approximate cost would be to have the brakes repaired by a mechanic?(In case you're wondering I am looking to have the motorcycle repaired and will gladly accept mechinic quotes. I live in Brookfield, CT.)Thanks.
Most reputable shops charge $65 to $85 per hour of labor, and depending on what the actual problem is, may cost you $100 to $200. You say the brakes aren't functioning, do you mean that you pull the brake lever and the lever moves but the actual brakes do not work, or the brake lever does not move at all? The problem may be as simple as changing the brake pads and draining, replacing and bleeding new fluid through the system, to having the caliper rebuilt, or possibly having the reservoir rebuilt.
Q:a high performance road bike with disc brakes appeals to me, a bike I would not race and would put in a couple hundred miles a week witham I insane?
Isn't 20 a little extreme? It might mess up your brakes.
Q:Why dont motorcycles have pedals (for acceleration/braking)?
Yes, they work awesome. More air is always going to make a difference.
Q:I have an 81 kawasaki 750. However the bike has pretty much been all custom worked so it is hard to decipher what is what. Under the seat looks literally like a birds nest of wires. And the turn signals up front r just hanging there with a rubber band holding the wire. The brake light turns on with the headlight but does not light up when brake is applied. If anyone could give me some info on the basics of what needs to go where i should be able to figure it out. Thank u for the info!
Since it is possibly a butchered 30 year old loom it is probably worth your while creating your own wiring loom from scratch rather than try to make old brittle wires of unknown provenance work. Work out what components you need and wire them. Many looms will include wiring which will fit components not necessarily be fitted to your model. If you work slowly and logically (with plenty of slack in the wires) you should be able to create your own. Replace or clean components as you go.
Q:the motorcycle will not decrease speed by gentle application of brakes, I have to floor the rear brakes and grab the front brake calliper.is there something wrong with my brakes?
BRAKING IS LIKE A TURD TAPERED AT BOTH ENDS! You pull gently and increase the pressure until fully applied and then ease off. This stops the wheels from locking up. If your brakes are grabbing then they are either badly adjusted or in need of replacement. They need servicing or the pads replacing at the least.
Q:my brake light wont work from the lever or pedal but if i puy a live to the wires on brake lever it will come on. How can i fix it??? Please help??????
RECENTLY, both brake switches on my bike failed, New switches fixed it. The front switch is a micro switch, the rear is spring loaded, Both are EASY to replace. Go ahead and pay the cost difference at the dealer, I saved $4 on the switch and paid $7 shipping, and it took a week to arrive.
Q:Okay, the other day I was washing my rims on my Gixxer. While using the hose, I think I may have wet the rear brakes (pads n pedal). About an hour later, I took it on the interstate. After about 15 minutes of riding I realized my rear brakes weren't working at all. I got to my destination and tried to pump them and nothing. About a half hour later I tried again and they worked. Did this happen because I wet them while washing my bike or is there something else wrong with them? If there is something wrong with them, then how did they all of a sudden start working?
there is nothing wrong with them... brakes don't work while wet.... it even warns you of this in driver's tests..... and the rear brakes on a bike are weak as all hell to begin with, get them wet and it's just 20 pounds of dead weight on your bike cuz they aren't going to do anything. this is a prime reason to learn to brake your bike using engine braking and relying on the brakes in emergencies or when you need that extra stopping power.... Interesting answers! I'm guessing the people that said they don't work when wet don't actually own a motorcycle actually i do... i own a 200cc dirt bike with front and back disc brakes.. the back brakes don't do anything to slow me down when wet... the front ones are severely impaired, but will slow me down.
Q:I plan to buy a motorcycle in the next couple of months and of course I want to protect my investment.I‘ve done some searching online and am overwhelmed to discover the number of types and brands of anti theft systems there are available. Normally I would resign myself to ask the dealerships what they suggest but I‘m fundamentally wary of anything they say as I can‘t be sure if they are actually giving me an honest opinion or trying to make an additional sale. I found a system I like called Roadlok. It seems a simple enough system at a very reasonable price. I wonder if anyone might offer an opinion or even better some personal experience with this system.
Motorcycles are very easy to steal and anti theft systems are of little benefit. Most bikes get man handled onto a truck or trailer not hot wired. My motorcycle has a steering lock and the ignition has a resistor making hot wiring more difficult. I also wired in a tether switch and remove tether line. I usually try to park it in a well lit area. I take the time to find a secure location. Lojack is a good idea.
Q:Every Time I down shift (say im in 5th gear) when I start releasing out the clutch I can feel the bike jerking, am I suppose to give it some throttle when I downshift or start giving it some brakes? Can some one please tell me what I'm doing wrong. I have a ninja 250, 2005I just finished my msf course and they didn't teach us engine braking
when you downshift, you are probably feeling the jerk because you are at one RPM and the engine runs at a higher RPM in a lower gear at the same speed. What you need to do is just before you start letting out the clutch, blip the throttle a bit to give it gas and boost the RPM's, then release the clutch. You have to be quick so the RPM's don't fall again. If you do this right, the engine speed and the gear speed will be roughly the same and it'll neutralize the jerkiness, then just left off the throttle and let the engine slow down the bike. make sure if you have someone following you to tap the brakes so show you are slowing down, otherwise they might hit you. i use the rear brake a little if i have enough room to slow down, and the front brake while blipping to slow down quicker.

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