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FAQ

My water pump broke on my volkswagen golf tdi so I took it to a garage. He charged me ?250 for a new pump and fitting. When I came to collect it he showed me the broken water pump, when I asked if I could keep the broken pump that was taken out of my car he said that there would be quite a quot;heftysurcharge for me to take it with me because they have to send them back to Volkswagen. I thought it was a bit strange. Is that normal?

What you're talking about is what we in America call a Core charge. If I buy a new water pump for my car and take it home to do it myself, the pump is going to cost me $80. There is also a core charge of another $20 from the parts store that I use. So I'm paying $100 to take home my water pump. However, if I were to have brought in my old pump to exchange it...then I would only pay the $80 for the part. Or if I took it home at $100 and then returned the old one after I got my car fixed...then they'd give me the the $20 back. The reason for this is that a lot of companies can recondition these parts and make them as good as new. This is a hell of a lot cheaper than buying new components to make new parts. Say a water pump is leaking only because the seals in it are failing. They can take it apart, replace the seals (and anything that looks like it needs replacing, clean it all up, and put it back together. And that reconditioned water pump (which has a warranty that's the same as the new part and often times better) would usually be sold for $60. So likely that's what's going to happen to it. It'll go back to VW so they can re-manufacture it and recycle it for use in another car that needs a water pump.

Who can tell me such water pump medium flow direction should be what kind of, from left to right, or from right to left, is low into the higher?

Look, the direction of the motor is the direction of that arrow. Point to the other side. That's the water out

Having a hard time taking out the water pump on my 2004 Grand Am. it's been leaking anti-freeze for some time and finally had the time to fix it. Didn't know it will be so difficult to take out. So hopefully it won't be so difficult to put back up.

You did not say if you have a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder. The 6 is really easy so I will assume you have a 4.If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Removal in Engine Mechanical - 2.2L (L61). Drain the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling . Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the right front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the front fender liner. Refer to Front Fender Liner Replacement in Body Front End. Remove the access plate on the water pump sprocket from the timing cover. Install J 43651 to the water pump sprocket. Use the access plate bolts to secure J 43651 to the engine front cover. Remove the bolts that secure the sprocket to the water pump. Remove the bolt (1) that secures the engine block to the water pump. Remove the bolt (2) that secures the engine front cover to the water pump. Remove the feed pipe that joins the thermostat housing to the water pump. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the water pump to the engine block. Remove the water pump.

I need a water pump for a 1930 Chrysler Roadster and have no idea where to get one. Any suggestions?

No personal experience, but it is a start, try below linkage. I just Googled 1930 Chrysler Roadster

It's been slowly leaking for awhile now, but today it dumped brown water out like a bucket, when I shut it off facing up hill.

you probably hit the nail on the head with the head gasket, but i believe there is also some kind of a heating device that helps to stop the water from getting into the engine. if the heating device breaks water can then condensate and get into the oil. i had to replace this device on my 93 grand am so i know it exists on some cars and trucks. ask around about this heating device. if it's the head gasket there is a STOP LEAK product that you can try from any auto store such as abc auto, pep boys etc. i've used it and sometimes it works sometime not. depends on how bad the leak is.

I'm not too familiar with computerized cars, just wondering if the water pump going out would cause the car not to start?

Drain coolant, would would desire to eliminate coolant reservoir,next pull belt tensoner back and eliminate belt remembering the way its routed. next eliminate the bolts on w-pump pulley eliminate outer ring of bolts on pump. sparkling gasket setting up new one ,.bleed air from equipment to pevent overheat.desire that's stable.

When we turn our water on in the house it will run for a while and then shut off.. It has been coming back on after 5 0r 6 mins.it used to do this about once a week but now it does it every day we don't mess with any breakers because they don't get triped . We are on well and this well is about 7 yrs old anyone have an idea what could be the problem .. If any more info is needed I can reply..

Your bladder tank is water logged, you will need to drain the holding tank and refill then check pressure, you will probably have to add air to the tank. There will be a shrader valve (the same kind of valve on your vehicle tire, use a tire gauge) near the top of your tank. Check the pressure first, if the pressure is low(there is a tag telling you what the pressure should be) you will probably have water at the Shrader valve. Very common where soil is sandy.

Im changing the water pump on my explorer. As i was unscrewing the bolts one of the heads to the bolt wore out and now its really hard to take out and its giving me a headache. any ideas of what i should do to take it out?

If there's tail of the screw still out ,use an alligator clamp wrench . clamp it as hard as you can ,then spray some WD-40 waite 5 minutes and then try to open it . If it brake from inside the trade ,there's no way except drill small size hole than the screw, in the screw and then use left turn opener wrench (buy it from auto zone or home depot) direction of the use it's on the Package .It is a left turn traded screw with square end . After you get ride of that screw for re installation use high temperature grease and apply to the tread ,make sure pump cap it's not deform ,if is deform buy new and apply grease to the washer gasket before install .