ASP5611 Series Chemical Mixed Flow Pumps

ASP5611 Series Chemical Mixed Flow Pumps System 1

ASP5611 Series Chemical Mixed Flow Pumps System 2

ASP5611 Series Chemical Mixed Flow Pumps

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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FAQ

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?

A: Yes, the WQ models.

Q: How long is your warranty?

A: Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

ASP5611 Series Chemical Mixed Flow Pumps

Q:I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!: This is a hot topic even among Honda enthusiasts and professionals. The whole deal about changing the water pump, as you probably know, is that the labor to do that is small once the timing belt is out of the way. However - and this is the big issue - most original Honda water pumps last a very long time, even more than 200K miles. Do you feel lucky? One big issue enters here: what sort of antifreeze has been used in it? If it still has Honda antifreeze (dark green in your 1997, as I recall) the pump is probably still good for another 100K miles even if the coolant has not been changed on schedule. If it has conventional (bright) green or some other coolant that is not known to be silicate free I strongly recommend replacing the pump with an OEM pump. See the first source for the reason. In any case, I recommend replacing the water pump with the next timing belt change if you don't do it this time. 300K miles is a lot to ask of a pump seal. I also strongly recommend not going with an aftermarket pump - OEM only. I make a habit of always replacing the pump and tensioner(s). EDIT - Shane A has a good point. If the water pump fails next year the price of a new pump and tensioner will seem trivial. The pain of higher cost is temporary, the peace of mind is lasting.

Q:I getting some work done to my like replacing the timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket and the water pump gasket...the mechanic I talked to said I need to replace this as well; my thing is the water pump is fine..should I take his advice?: Since we don't know what kind of car/engine you have, there are really too many variables for anyone to give you a good answer. You would want to take into account things like; How hard is it to replace the water pump, labor/time wise? How much does a new water pump cost, for the part itself? Is the water pump driven by the timing belt, and is it an interference-fit engine? If the water pump were very expensive, but easy to replace, and isn't driven by the belt on an interference-fit engine, then there would be very little risk in not replacing it for the now vs later cost savings. But if the water pump were very cheap, hard to replace, and is driven by the belt on an interference-fit engine, then it would not only be cheaper to do it now, but you wouldn't have to worry about a bad pump snapping the timing belt, and wrecking your engine from the valves hitting the pistons, warping or even cracking the cylinder head, and so forth. In the end, the decision is up to you, but these are the kinds of factors you would want to take into account when making this decision.

Q:My water pump broke on my volkswagen golf tdi so I took it to a garage. He charged me ?250 for a new pump and fitting. When I came to collect it he showed me the broken water pump, when I asked if I could keep the broken pump that was taken out of my car he said that there would be quite a quot;heftysurcharge for me to take it with me because they have to send them back to Volkswagen. I thought it was a bit strange. Is that normal?: He would have charged you a core charge (sometimes more than the replacement part costs). A lot of companies refurbish old parts and require you to turn in the bad part so they can repair it.

Q:How do I replace the water pump on a 1996 Mercury 200 hp outboard engine? I have the parts, but want to make sure I replace it correctly. Thanks!: Remove the lower unit. Place the lower unit in a stand if available. unbolt the waterpump housing and lift off and over the shaft. Place new water pump lower piece on lower unit. slide the new impeller down the shaft and line up with shaft key and slide into place. place water pump upper housing on shaft and slide down over impeller, turning shaft a bit to bend impeller blades. Bolt down housing, grease shaft splines and put lower unit back on. You may find it easier to change the lower unit oil while you have it off.

Q:Could my problem be greater than a water pump or thermostat?: Well first of all thermostates don't make leaks, -- unless they don't open, in which case boiling makes water run out! And of course it could be waterpump, it could also be radiator hoses, and radiator itself, as well as heater hoses, and heater core! In extreme case it could even be head gasket going bad! (But defiantely it will be under the hood!) You just have to check things out an see where it is coming from! Waterpump has a weep hole underneath main housing, -- if it is dripping from there,- the seal in WP is bad. But rest of things should be easy to see if you look carefully! If you have very much water leaking get it fixed quickly, and keep it full, and watch temperature carefully, if it starts overheating shut down engine quickly! If you drive overheated you WILL blow head gasket, and if going even further- too hot, it will expire engine! This is very expensive!

Q:Is it cheaper to run an electric water pump or a furnace?: If you live down south in the good old USA, yes it is cheaper money wise. Initial start up costs can be really steep though. I just saw a great system that has solar power along with the geothermal that was $15,000.00 You may want to own the house and I hope it is worth it as it will be awhile before you even out on the costs. This was a 3000 square foot home I saw the system in, so it may be cheaper, BUT, may even be MORE to install because your place may be smaller and what are local regulations ? Good Luck.

Q:How much solar energy would you need to generate and run a small water pump? Say one that is big enough to extract water from a bucket that is 1 ft wide x 2 ft deep? What size solar panel would you need to accomplish this?: Assuming you are only interested in pumping the water out of the back (and onto the floor). The majority of the energy will be consumed trying to get the water to the tip of the bucket (where it will then fall to the floor), so it will initially require very little energy, but by the time it's trying to remove the last bit of water it will have to lift it 2' high(and water exerts 2.41psi per sq. so it need to exert 2.82 PSI+force exerted by the 2' of tubing/pipe). It would also depend on how quickly you want to get the water out of the bucket.

Q:The garage told me my water pump was pumping quot;weaklyand needs to be replaced.: Good question (finally). It will pump weakly if it is not turning fast enough or is leaking at a seal. If you have a faulty belt that is slipping it will not turn fast enough. Go to another mechanic.

Q:What are the parameters of the pump price?: With the flow and head related, the greater the flow rate, the higher the head, the greater the power, the higher the price.

Q:How do I change the water pump in my 1998 ford mustang manual v6?: If you don't already know how to do it, then take it to a shop to have it done by the professionals. If you insist on trying it yourself, buy a Chilton's manual for your car, do some online research (with pictures), and buckle down. You will need to loosen the belts, remove the belts, remove the water pump, replace it, and reinstall everything. You will need to make sure that the belt is routed the correct way, or BOOM! You might also want to replace the timing belt while you're in there. It makes sense to replace it if you already are removing it, and the timing belt is something you can't afford to have go bad on you.

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