• Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump ) System 1
Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump )

Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump )

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 unit/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name:SHENWU

  • Model Number:200QJ32-52/4

  • Theory:Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure:Multistage Pump

  • Usage:Water

  • Power:Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard:Standard

  • Fuel:Electric

  • Pressure:High Pressure

  • Application:Submersible

  • Material:Cast Iron / Stainless Steel

  • Color:Blue or Green

  • Flow:32m3/h

  • Head:52m

  • Head Range:50-54m

  • Power:7.5kW

  • Drive:Motor

  • OEM,Design Service:Accept

  • Using:river,deep borehole well,open well,pool,etc

  • Outlet Diameter:1.2,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,10 inch

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:plywood case with carbon box
Delivery Detail:3-5 days after payment confirmation

Specifications

Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump
1.Flow:10~500 m3/h
2.Lift: 5~400m
3.Diameter:30~150mm
4.CE, BV, ISO9001

  Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump )

Our main products QJ submersible pumps series, QS bearing submersible pump series; QSL submersible halogen pumps series; WQ sewage pumps series; QY Oil Immerse submersible pump; SLG/SLW pipeline pump; D-Phase pumps; MD centrifugal pumps; SSQJ stainless steel deep well pumps, etc. over 40 kinds of series.

The pump flow range:   5m3/h~2000m3/h,

Lift scope :                   5m-1400m,

Motor power range:     0.55-500 kW.

There are over 3000 models.

SQJ ,SQS,SQY Submersible Pump Series Parameters

SQJ Submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~500m3/h, Lift scope within 5~405m;

Caliber scope 32~203mm, Temperature range-15~80° C.

SQS Bearing submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~250m3/h, Lift scope within 5~12m;

Caliber scope 30~150mm, Temperature range<=30° C.

SQY Oil Immersed submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~100m3/h, Lift scope within 5~54m;

Caliber scope 51~152mm, Temperature range<=40° C.

Products Overview

SQJ, SQS, SQY, Series submersible pumps widely used in farmland irrigation, spray irrigation and water-use, industrial and civil buildings, also the drainage system to level hills, mountain diversion and in low-lying areas dunes, urban and rural mining supply, drainage and other water conservancy facilities. Characteristics are that they are assembled into a simple structure they have installation convenience a small footprint, simple maintenance and a safe reliable operation.

Product use conditions

1. SQJ Submersible pumps use conditions:

(1)380 V bias voltage does not exceed +/-10% and 50 HZ frequency, and the deviation is not more than + -1% of the three-phase power supply.

Electrical cavity must be filled with water during operation.

(3)The first-class pump impeller should at least go into a dynamic water level 2 m below surface. Static pump unit immersed under water shall not be greater than 70 m in depth.

(4)The normal water temperature should be no higher than 20 ° C, QJR- hot water pump temperature up to 80 ° C.

(5)Water and sand content (by mass) of not more than 0.01%.

(6)Water PH 6.5-8.5.

(7)The hydrogen sulfide in water content is not more than 1.5 mg / L.

2. SQS Bearing submersible pumps usage conditions:

(1)Power: 50 Hz frequency and voltage of 380 volts (allowing deviations +5% -10%) of the three-phase AC power. Pumps should be safe submerged operations, diving depth of not less than 0.5 meters.

(2)Water: general corrosion without water, sand volume is not 0.02%, PH: 6.5 ~ 8.5, extracting the water temperature no higher than 30 ° C.

3. SQY Oil Immersed submersible pumps use conditions:

Submersible pumps submerged depth of not more than 5 m; Water temperature does not exceed 40 ° C; water sediment or water insoluble solid mark of the volume ratio of not more than 0.1%, particle size less than 0.2mm, water pH value of 6.5 ~ 8.

Q:Ok, if my intake manifold wasnt mess up and it could be my water pump would I still smell a syrup odor and WHY would it be leaking green antifreeze? especially when the antifreeze I use is orange?
Okay, I take it you've added orange anti-freeze to your cooling system. If the system originally had green in it- you just did something really expensive. The two kinds of anti-freeze don't get along. Mixing the two together then getting them hot makes them into a gel. SO, what you get to do now is a complete system flush(by taking the whole system apart-heater core, radiator, hoses, heater valve, the works) use some sort of flush product, and get a large tub. Then, after you've gotten an amount of it out, reassemble the whole thing, and with the engine cool-put some more flush agent in it. Then, take a garden hose- and fill the system. once it's full open the petcock and continue to use the garden hose to flush the system until the water comes out clear. Now, close up the system and run the car for a bit and check the bottom of the water pump to see if the weep hole is leaking. There is on just below the pump shaft. If that's leaking, the pump is shot. If that's not, then there could be a cracked head, or a bad head gasket. A few things to check for that are- if when the car is running, are there air bubbles coming out of the radiator(with the cap open)? Does it seem to overheat easily? Have you run the engine hot?
Q:I'm looking for a high pressure water pump ,preferably submersible, between 80-100 psi.
go you five and six show room only prospects of high pressure of toll pump or submersible menu check if you like buy no like no buy
Q:Ok, simple question, on a 1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0. The water pump sucks water (not push) through the heater core correct? So the flow of water goes from the block, through the heater core, into the water pump, right?
If you have air pockets it will block water flow, usually to the heater core, since this is the highest point in the system. To remove air pockets, do the following. Make sure engine is cold. Jackup front of car, park on a steep incline or drive on ramps to raise the front of the vehicle. Remove the radiator cap. Run the engine a bit. This should move the air pockets out the filler neck of the radiator. Turn off engine, top off fluid and put cap back on.
Q:My Camry is overheating and I am assuming it is the water pump. I already changed the thermostat and that was no help. When I turn the heater on to cool off the engine, it blows cold air or the temp of the air outside most of the time and seldomly hot air. I bought a water pump, but I am not sure if this is something I can do?
Got okorder /
Q:Does anyone know or can show me a picture of the location of the water pump in the '97 Totota avalon please? I'm trying to replace mine.Please and Thank you :)
Front of engine block, behind fan and driven usually by the crankshaft.
Q:Water pump maintenance what should be maintained?
Bearings, seals, impellers - removing dirt
Q:Suppose the liquid temperature range for the water pump is -20 .. 90 °C. However it should be worked under liquid temperature upto 180 °C. For this, what has to to be done?
The pump will work well if it can increase head to 10 bar. Also, I think it will affect pump alignment, so you must determine hot alignment dimensions.
Q:WARE IS THE WATER PUMP LOCATED AT
If you gotta ask this question that it should be very obvious that you should let someone else work on it!!!!!!! It is on the front of the engine where it always is
Q:Whats the difference between a faulty water pump and head gasket? The coolant reservoir has a quot;bubblingeffect when the car is running. I just changed the radiator and filled it. Most of whats in the radiator is water honestly. The car sounds a little rough and sputtery like a head gasket. The spark plugs are dry and I took the cover off and nothing looked watery or moisturous. I also had to change the head and head gasket a month ago. The head gasket didn't have any damage to it so I assumed the head was bad. I used a new head gasket also. Anything else I can check? The car is a 91 corolla.
sounds like head gasket and head. but first run the engine squeeze the big water hose from pump to radiator if you can feel pressure then pump should be ok as long as no noise from it. then i would bleed the cooling system to get any air out. your car will sound rough if air is in the water system. but if all is ok with that then it looks like the gasket/head and you will have to get head skim ed this way you can make sure timing is spot on and is not out. but also look for where air can get in water system thermostat house ect
Q:there is a knocking noise coming from the water pump pulley..i think, the pulley also wiggles when its running. If that's what is wrong, how long do i have to fix it and is it hard and expensive to fix?
No it isn't hard to fix, first loosen the little bolts on the water pump pulley, then take the belt off, then unbolt the water pump and take pulley off old pump, clean off old seal from block, put on new seal, you may have to use gasket maker or silicone, install new pump, and bolt pulley on to new pump, then reinstall belt. Oh I forgot you will have to drain the antifreeze before you start, and refill it after you are done! Start the car and let it warm up and look for leaks, if you see a leak you didn't get it sealed properly and will have to repeat the sealing process and antifreeze. Takes an hour or so to do!

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