• Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 1
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 2
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 3
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 4
Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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 Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 



Q:We had to have our well pump replaced yesterday, how long before the well settles down, and the water tastes like it used to?The company who replaced the pump told us when changing a pump it disturbs the well, and it would take time for everything to settle back into place. Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.
Something seems a little fishy here besides the smell of the water. 1) Replacing the pump will do nothing to keep your well from being sucked dry unless the pump was sunk lower in the well. 2) A space is left between the bottom of the pump and the bottom of the well so that you have a place for sediment to settle, anywhere from 10' to 50'. 3) If you sink the pump lower you are placing it in the sediment area and will keep sucking up sediment until its level is drawn down. 4) Water literally flows thru the well and unless your well casing was damaged or the walls below it are collapsing it would be difficult to stir up anything. Apparently what they have done is to lower the pump pipe causing the pump to sit in the available sediment area. If you run the pump enough you will eventually suck the sediment down out of the bottom of the well. However, you will have less of a sump left and you will draw more sediment out of the well from now on. The only permanent solution to your problem was to drill the well deeper. I have recent firsthand experience with this both professionally (customers wells) and personally (my own well). The water will clear up but it may take some time and quite a bit of flow but from now on you will draw more particulates out of your well. Your cheapest and best solution is to invest in a filter to go inline after your pressure tank. They run about $70 plus installation and will need the filters changed between 1 and 6 months depending on how turbid your water is. Good Luck!
Q:1.where is it located and what would I have to remove 1st to get to it. And would I need a torque wrench if so what # would it have to be at when re-installing water pump
1990 Toyota Celica
Q:Domestic pump does not use water, or turn, I do not know why?
Your home should be the pipeline booster pump, a pressure switch outlet of the pump, if no water will switch off, open the water tap water pump will work ~ ~ should be the pressure spring on this switch is broken, with 4 years of spring rust, not the original so good toughness. Another reason is that when the water pressure is not enough, the pump will work, but this can be ruled out.
Q:Submersible pump capacity I was 1500W, the normal use of voltage is 220 kV line 600 meters with 6 square aluminum after the start of the effluent is small, and the voltage of submersible pump is reduced to 150 volts could not use voltage of 380 volts (two).
This is the reason why the line is too long and the power consumption is too large
Q:my water pump is leaking and chirping would like to know the procedure
Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain coolant from radiator. Remove upper fan shroud. Remove drive belt. Remove fan assembly from engine. Lower radiator and heater hose from the water pump. Remove water pump attaching bolts and water pump, Fig. 15 . Reverse procedure to install. Tighten water pump attaching bolts to specifications
Q:the pump is pumping hot wtaer from the hot water tank around the domestic hot water system, i.e to taps and shower.
These pumps can have their own bearing or they may rely on the bearings in the motor. Most of these are anti-friction bearings that have a limited life. Also if the pump runs dry it can over heat and seize.
Q:I've been hearing a noise from my truck that sounds like a fan blade is rubbing against something metal but I could never figure out what it was and my truck seemed to be running fine. I recently replaced my radiator and now my truck is overheating. Was that noise my water pump going bad and now it's shot?
could very well be.Also could be fan clutch.
Q:i have a 1960 ford f100 and i was wondering if its better to have an electric water pump or mechanical. ive heard mechanical is worse because at low rpms it doesnt put as much water into the motor but i wasnt sure how true that was. What was is better so that my truck doesnt overheat? and how much better is one over the other if electric will just be a little better is it even worth using? also will i need to change anything on my motor to be able to put an electric water pump on it or will it just bolt on like the mechanical one does
Well your mechanical water pump is more than sufficient to pump water through your engine even at low rpms. Whether you have a electric or mechanical your can't pump more water though your engine than what your thermostat will allow you to. The advantage that i can see over electric would be the extra horse power you might get over having your mechanical
Q:We have an electric sump pump. Battery pumps will only work for two or three days. I want a manual pump that will pump a lot of water. We cannot waterproof the basement because it costs over $10,000. Where can I find a manual pump? Carrying water out in buckets is too slow and exhausting. We carried 80 five gallon buckets out last time the electricity was off for a few hours.
There okorder ... They are typically installed as back up to the electric powered one and will only come on when the electric has failed. they use a siphon action that is supplied by water flowing through a pipe so they use a lot of water but as long as your house has water pressure they will keep the basement dry. When the electricity comes back on they shut off because their float switch is activated at a higher level that the electric ones.
Q:Ok, so if i have an 80 watt solar panel and want to run a 12v dc fan and water pump ONLY when the sun is out or enough light to power them, will i need something like a voltage regulator? I would like to have the panels charge deep cycle 12 v batteries at the same time or when the fan and pump is not running. For instance, i have the panels out and my fan and pump on allowing them to run only on solar as well as charge the batteries. What diagram would i use? I would probably get a charge control for the batteries but more importantly what would i need to regulate the power from the panels? Inverter?
You may have to do some math. The 80 watt panel is only 80 watts at peak sun on a 75°F day at the equator. Chances are you will have something less than 80 watts to work with. But you can add up all the hours of partial sun to get an equivalant number of peak sun hours. An example would be a few hours in the morning and evening at partial power and a couple of hours at solar noon at nearly full power may give you 5 peak sun hours worth of light. 5 psh x 80 w/ps = 400 wh Your supply may have 400 watt hours worth of power per day. You state that the fan is 12v dc but what is the wattage? It could be a little 12v dc fan out of a computer or it could be a huge 12v dc fan out of an RV. What is the power requirements of the water pump? Is it a little 12v dc one for a foot tall decorative fountain or an industial 3 phase pump for a well? To charge the battery you need a voltage 120% higher than the battery voltage. 12v x120%=14.4 v To add up your loads convert them all the use to dc watt hours per day Here is an example to give you an idea of how to play with your numbers: Fan 12vdc x 1.5 A = 18 watts, use this for 5 hours your load would be 18w x 5hr = 90 watt hours Pump 120 vac x 2.5 amps = 300 watts (The AC will need to come from an inverter. The inverter has a certain amount of loss. How good it does the job of converting dc to ac is know as it's efficency. Lets use 90% to be safe) 300 watts / 0.90 = 333.4 watts, use this for 1/2 hour per day 333.4w x 0.5hr = 166.7 watt hours The 90 watt hours + the 167 watt hours = 257 watt hours per day. This would leave about 140 watt hours to put into the battery. Yes it would be best to use a charge controller to protect the battery from overcharging if the pump and fan are off, or from draining the battery too much if the fan or pump stays on.

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