Axial Split Chemical Pumps and Green One

Axial Split Chemical Pumps and Green One

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10 pc

Supply Capability:: 1000 pc/month

Inquire Now

Chat Online

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

Vertical Turbine Pump

High Pressure Water Pump

Water Pump For Water Wells

Sewage water pump, diesel engine, agricutrual water pump

LQFZ Self-priming Stainless Steel Anti-corrosive Centrifugal Pump

Single-suction Horizontal Boiler Feed Water Multistage Pump

Double suction pump
Pump complies to API610 API682
Pump capacity:65~16000
Pump Head:10~215m
Pump Max. pressure:1.6MPa

Introduction:

This double suction pump product is foot mounted, single-stage and double suction with axial split structure.

Its inlet flange and outlet flange are arranged at the lower part of the body, paralel with the axis. Therefore, the rotor can be easily taken out for overhaul, unnecessary to remove pipes, valves and motor.

Mechanical seal: according to customer's requirements

1. Mechanical seal---171(A) mechanical seal (this kind of seal is the national-patented product, patent No. ZL92 2 20977.4 ) single or dual MS.

2. Dynamic seal.

3. Packing gland seal.

4. Other brands.

Coupling: pin type coupling Axial Split Chemical Pumps and Green One

Water supply and water treatment industry

Paper-making industry

Heating devices of power plants, thermal power plants and pipeline networks

Fire protection systems

Seawater salt production

Q:Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.: there is no way to tell from those numbers which one has more suction lift capacity. You would need the pump curves and see what the NPSHR is for each pump.

Q:hiI have very low pressure only on the hot water in my kitchen sink. Cold water is fine. Can anyone recommend a water pump/power shower i can use for boosting my hot water in the kitchen sink tap?Ive already tested the faucet by swapping the water supplies.thanks: Why do you need high pressure from the hot tap?

Q:All the water to my house comes from the river close by - via a 1500kw surface pump, into a large pressurised tank. If there is ever any kind of blockage in the pipe - or if it freezes ...this causes the pump to run - 'dry' - which eventually burns out the motor. I have lost 2 pumps so far because of running dry - and they are very expensive.I would like to fit some kind of automatic cut-out - that will ALWAYS stop the pump running after 15 minutes or perhaps less - as that is ALL the time it needs - if the water is flowing freely - to fill the pressurised tank. I feel sure such a thing must exist - but I do not know what it is called or where to buy one. Does anyone know of a 'switch' of this kind? And where to look for one? What could I put into google to do a search - for suppliers and prices, please?: There are pressure switches that have a low water cut out on them.If the pressure drops too low the switch will turn the pump off.This however my not be a 100% cure.If you used just enough water to turn the pump on and then shut the flow of water off and the pump was not pumping water for the reasons you stated it would continue to run and not build up enough pressure to turn it off.If you wanted to do some sort of timer you could contact an electrician and ask about a timer that could be acctivated when the pump comes on. I am not aware of any thing on the market made for this but a good electrician would know where to get the right components to do this.

Q:Have a Toyota RAV4. About 156, 000 miles on it.Yesterday as I started driving, there was a sound coming from underthe hood that sounded similar to a stick in bicycle spokes. Got to theend of the block and stopped and noticed there was smoke comingfrom below the belts.Got back to the house and the temp was up really high. No fluid.Added fluid and water and it was leaking, but not from the radiatoritself, but from towards the back of the engine?Might this be the water pump?: yes..very well maybe waterpump. i sugest you check,and change pump,timing belt,belt tensioner and idler as well..

Q:do I need to replace it again ? How hard is it to change the water pump? Any Idea where on the internet I can download a free maintenance manual or replacement instructions ?: Since okorder , click on Repair Info on the left, select Vehicle Repair Guides, and then input your car model. All the instructions you need are in there.

Q:I need instructions on taking the old one out and replacing it with a new one. Photos will be helpful: Water Pump RemovalRemoval: Disconnect battery ground cable and drain coolant from engine. Loosen water pump idler pulley bolt and remove belt from water pump pulley. Remove water pump inlet tube. Remove three water pump retaining bolts and water pump, Fig. 16. Installation: Clean both gasket mating surfaces on water pump and cylinder block. Install three water pump retaining bolts and tighten to 20-30 N-m (15-22 ft-lbs). Connect water pump inlet tube on water pump. Install water pump belt on pulley and adjust tension to specification. Connect battery ground cable. Replace engine coolant. Operate engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for leaks and recheck coolant level. Couldn't get the picure but this should help, the pump is located on the backside of the engine, just be carefull, this engine is really easy to get the pulley on backwards then the belt won't line up right.

Q:Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?: I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;

Q:can stress from to much weight cause the engine to get hot and cause your water pump to leak out the weep hole? and what else causes it to leak?: WELL THERES ALOTE OF THINGS BUT THE MOST LIKELY IS MILES ALOTE OF MILES THEN THEY WILL FALL APART I FOUND BEING I WORK ON CARS THAT ABOUT EVERY 50,000 MILES CHANGE THE WATER PUMP AND YOU HAVE NO PROBLEMS

Q:i have just bought a coachman 1994 wanderer but water pump do`snt work,there are 3 wires to pump socket inside the van,white,red,yellow,only the white was fitted and reads 12v to earth,the other 2 read 6v to earth, any help as I cant find a wiring diagram on net !: cut all the wires off and lay them on the earth

Q:The submersible, intermittent pump for my household water well, which is undergound out in the yard, “bangs” when it starts and stops, and vibrates the pipes when it runs. Any idea what might be causing this, or how to make it stop doing this? This all started about 5 months ago and has been getting worse.: It sounds to me like water hammer. There are a few ways to address it, probably the easiest is to add an expansion tank. To find out, try connecting a garden hose somewhere in the system, preferably a cold water pipe. Drain all the water from the hose and put a nozzle or plug on the end so the air can't escape, then turn the valve on. The air in the hose will act as a cushion and, if water hammer is the problem, you won't hear it while the hose is connected. That is not a permanent solution, just a simple test that might give you an answer. Good luck

1. Manufacturer Overview
Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range