• Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 1
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 2
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 3
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 4
Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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 Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 



Q:Ok, so I have a 1997 3.8 liter ford mustang. I was driving home from work the other day, when temp gauge started to go up. I brought it to mechanic, and he said it was a bad water pump, due to bad antifreeze. So I am getting a new pump, and an antifreeze flush. My question is that since it overheated, will there be any damage to the engine? The temperature gauge never hit the red, and smoke never came out. I had to drive it for approx 15-20 miles when it started to overheat, and the temp gauge was bouncing from hot to normal.
Overheating your engine is never good , but are you certain it was actually overheated or just a loose wire, faulty thermostat or other giving erratic readings.. If the Engine did not SMELL hot, if the engine performance did not change, if it did not overheat to the extreme...and quickly, it was probably NOT the water pump. Too, it probably did not damage the engine if it was overheated only to the degree that you say. I would wonder about the water pump scenario. Is it possible that you were in extended stop and go traffic in hot weather, and/or your radiator fluid was low and basically getting air in the system.? I hope your mechanic is competent and honest, and the problem was as he said. Usually there is NO Question in the symptoms that the Engine is overheated (regardless of gauge reading). The OIL would get very thin and HOT as well. Just wondering. Good luck.. P.S. I just read Avatar Country Boy's response after I submitted mine. He has some good advice too. I would add that if the engine ever overheats and loses water (or needs water) DONT EVER POUR WATER INTO A HOT OVERHEATED ENGINE !!!!! If you got the radiator cap off in the first place without getting scalded or WORSE, if you try to add water it WILL essentially EXPLODE back in your face as it hits super heated cooling system parts, and most likely crack your engine block, and/or warp your engine heads...serious engine damage. Instead, let it cool completely Again...Good luck..
Q:We usually wait 4 - 5 minutes for hot water in our master bath. I've been looking into ricirculation pump systems. This would have to be a retro-fit system since some of the lines run through concrete slab making adding a return loop on the line non-feasible. I have found some people comment on simply using a by-pass valve system without a pump (ie. Hot Water Lobster). We do have hard water which I've also read that can present a problem with pumps dieing quite quickly. While I'd like it, I don't need 1 second hot water, but I can't stand wasting gallons waiting for 4-5 minutes. A reasonable 15-30 second wait would be a huge improvement. Has anyone had reasonable success with the bypass valve without the pump or should I plan on getting the pump too? Thanks in advance!
Get the pump, the valve is useless without it. Why anybody would advise you to put a tankless heater under the sink to remedy one faucet when the recirc system will do it for all your fixtures is beyond me.You will not need a return line with the rscirc system. They work good!
Q:Hi, I'm looking for an affordable pump that can be used to circulate heated water (60 C) through a 12pipe with a diameter about the size of a pencil. Is there a pump out there to match this application? I've come across some small fountain pumps, but they need to be submerged in the 60 C water bath and I'm not sure about the temperature tolerances of it. The model I'm currently looking at is a quot;TotalPond130gph fountain pump model. Thanks
You could try that pump but I don't think you get enough pressure. They can pump quite a bit of volume but don't have any pressure. It might be able to pump 130gph but check and see at what head. The head is what it can pump vertically. Could be 130gph at 3ft head but give it a go, might work just the way you want it to. An inline pump probably better to set up than a submerged one.
Q:What is the reason for the overload of the water pump indicator?
If the power is normal:1, the pump is indeed overloaded (at work to see how much the ammeter indicates).2 、 the motor is out of order.3 、 the thermal relay is not adjusted properly or aging.
Q:The meter on my dash was reading low even after driving for 20 minutes on a sunny day. Then all of a sudden it jumped over the 270 mark. I have a relatively new thermostat could my water pump have gone bad? I did not see any leaking coolant or anything under the vehicle.
It sounds like the thermostat was stuck open from the last drive cycle, and thats why your car wouldn't warm up, then it sounds like (somehow) it is now stuck closed. The only way to be sure is to feel for any large differences in temperature before and after the thermostat to see if its stuck.
Q:Stop the engine immediately and stop the circulating pump and the condensate pump. What's the harm to the turbine?
Then look at what is the circulating water pump and condensate pump users, circulating water with oil in the oil cooler then, condensed water supply pump seal water, water pump can't pump up, how will you know.
Q:Does the water pump pump the coolant into the engine or pump it out?
Strictly speaking, the pump is powered cooling fluid circulation, which is pumped into and out of the water pump is to rely on to complete the engine, the water tank and the pipelines are connected to form a closed loop, the engine cooling water tank, heat release, heat exchange by circulating cooling liquid, and let the power coolant flow up from the water, like the human heart as the power of the arteries and veins are provided by the contraction and relaxation of the heart of the.
Q:What's the meaning of a single-stage pump?
Single stage impeller or multistage impellerGenerally speaking, multistage impeller is adopted in booster pumps
Q:A direct type pump model with the coupling type, what is the difference?
The direct type shall be the same shaft of the pump and the motor, and the connecting shaft is a pump and the motor shall be 2 shafts, and shall be connected by a shaft coupling.
Q:And my heater works 80 % of the time, Is it still ok to drive if I keep putting water in it?
No! Water baptism cannot shop anybody. The demise thief hadn't accomplished any thing correct in his existence except to demonstrate faith in the Lord Jesus Christ and that is all that used to be required for him to obtain salvation. Where Peter was once announcing, repent and be baptised evey one among you for the remission of sins in Acts 2:38; right here he's pronouncing repent it is the act of repentance and religion in Jesus Christ that forgives and provides for the remission of sins and the act of baptism just isn't best the answer of a clear judgment of right and wrong closer to God but also is the scriptural manner where a man or woman is added to the church. We read in Acts chapter two the place about 3000 folks have been saved and then baptised and delivered to the church (Acts 2:forty one). The act of baptism is exactly only for individuals who have already been saved and is most likely no longer for any one else.

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