• SLZA API610 standard chemical processing pump System 1
SLZA API610 standard chemical processing pump

SLZA API610 standard chemical processing pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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SLZA series processing pumps are horizontal, singe stage, back pull-out design, they meet 10th version of ANSI/API610-2004 CENTRIFUGAL PUMPS FOR OIL, HEAVY CHEMICAL AND NATUAL GAS INDUSTRY and National standard GB/T3215-2007 of CENTRIFUGAL PUMPS FOR OIL, HEAVY CHEMICAL AND NATUAL GAS INDUSTRY .

Application range
For transferring clean and little contaminated, lower and high temperature, chemical neutral and corrosive liquid.
Mainly for:
Refinery, petrol-chemical industry, coal processing and
lower temperature engineering
Chemical industry, paper-making, pulp, sugar and such
like normal processing industry
Water supply plant and sea water desalination
Heat supply and air-conditioning system
Auxiliary system of power station
Environment protection engineering
Ships and offshore engineering

Operating parameter
Size: 25~400mm
Capacity: up to 2600m³/h
Head: up to 300m
Operating pressure: up to 7.5MPa
Operating temperature: -80 ~+450
Detailes will be referred to drawing of P-T, according to different temperature to select right materials

Q:How do you remove it without taking the engine out?
Disconnect lower radiator hose (8286) from the water pump lower tube. Remove the engine mount nuts. Remove the cowl extension panel. Disconnect the water bypass hose and the heater hose from the water pump outlet tube. Remove the water pump outlet tube bolt and position the tube assembly out of the way. Install the lifting eye to the exhaust manifold (9430). Attach engine lifting equipment and raise the engine 127 mm (5 inches). Remove the bolt and the accessory belt idler pulley. Remove the bolts and the generator support bracket. Remove the four bolts and the water pump pulley (8509). Remove the water pump. Remove the five nuts. Remove the five studs. Remove the four bolts. Remove the water pump, lower tube and gasket as an assembly.
Q:What are the commonly used tools for repairing water pumps? Mainly for civilian 220V submersible pumps, self-priming pumps. How much is the spare parts ready for use?
The most basic tools: a multimeter only about 20 yuan, 6 - 19 wrench a set of about 20 yuan, 200MM, 600MM adjustable wrench for each one of about 40 yuan, a cross, a screw knife is about 6 yuan, about 100 yuan a Lamar, claw hammer, hammer, rubber hammer, flat shovel each one about 40 yuan, a vise, pliers, diagonal pliers pliers, 8 words for each one of about 30 yuan, tweezers, knives, pressing line plate each one of about 15 yuan, 60W electric iron to about 25 yuan, a box, a soldering flux of about 15 yuan, or lamp the incandescent lamp, the crowbar can use local materials, needle, slide board with bamboo made with wood or self winding plate with the line of 80 yuan purchase mode. Insulating paint, asbestos pipe and tie band. Commonly used spare parts: enameled wire, water resistant lines, insulating paper, lead wires, various types of seals, bearings, impellers, lithium based grease, etc..
Q:I'm curious to know, where does the water go after it is sent to a pumping station??
Potable (drinkable) water pumps placed just outside the treatment plant boost pressure in the water mains, where it eventually gets to homes, businesses and hydrants via the pipe network. Most sewers flow by gravity (downhill) to a waste water treatment plant (or septic field). But if an area is too low to be serviced by a gravity sewer, an ejector pump is set at the bottom of a collection well which pumps the wastewater to a higher elevation in a pressure pipe called a force main. A good pump station will kick on about 4 or 5 times an hour and run for several minutes. Eventually it outlets to a manhole in a gravity system and ultimately the treatment plant.
Q:I'm going to be purchasing a laboratory distillation kit here pretty soon, the kit includes everything I need for the setup but the condenser requires a water pump to circulate cold water around the coils. What kind of pump would you recommend for this purpose?
A small centrifugal pump that has the flowrate designated by the condenser manufacturer. I assume it has a heat exchanger of some type to reject the heat to the air and that would need a designate flow. Anyway, look in any lab supply catalog or web site and they will have many small pumps. You do not need to carefully control the flowrate, so stay away from metering or peristaltic pumps. The pumps may even be made of plastic, that is fine for this application. In my lab, we would just run the water from the tap through the glass condenser and let it drain out to waste. It is wasteful of water, but it sure was much cheaper than buying a pump and heat exchanger.
Q:can't get the pulleys to line up I know I have a mid 70's 400 and the water pump is later than 1969 but I can't find a pulley that works every one is about a half inch off I bought a aftermarket set of underdrive pulley's from march performance and still the same problem the water pump is a half inch off there was no long or short water pump right they are all the same lenght right??? The only difference I know of is that pre 1968 the pumps have a 8 bolt design and after they have a 11 bolt design is that right???
Actually there was two main pumps for the older ones,, one was called a short shaft,,and one was called a long shaft,,the long shaft was the most popular,and it all depends on whether your car had power steering,,and air conditioning on it,,all the ones that used the long shaft usually had air,,and power steering on them also,,also some of them had a smog pump on them,,this was the main reason they used the long shaft,,most of the smog pumps got taken off and discarded down through the years,,but you still had to use the pump that had the long shaft,,this is the problem your having,,i own a repair shop in Tennessee,,and have been redoing some old cars in the past few years i to have run across the same problem you are having,,you can have a long shaft ordered for you ,,and it will work fine,,i had to use the long shaft on the one i was redoing hope this helps some.
Q:Work done in water pumping?Water is to be brought from a well 60 meters bellow ground level to a tower 10 meters high, once there the water falls freely on a 5000 liter tank. A submerged pump 10 meters under water level and a two inch diameter pipe is to be used. What is the work done by the pump when 2000 liters have been served to the tank; what is the power of a pump selected to do this work in 20 minutes.
Power_W = (Mass_kg * Gravity_m/s/s * Height_m) / time_s Where: Mass kg is 1kg/l of 2000 liters Gravity is 9.81m/s/s Head is 60m + 10m (height). The suction head is ignored because the pump is submerged. In practice there is some suction head due to intake restrictions like pipes, check valves, strainers. The time is 20 minutes in seconds. The work is the energy used in the time allocated, which is: power * time in seconds, which is watt seconds = joules. Not needed here as it is in the formula above. Power is the rate of doing work. The depth below water is not really relevant except for pipe losses which increase the head slightly. The flow is 2000 liters/20 minutes = 100 l/min. This can be used with the head of 70m to determine the pipe restriction, which amounts to a pressure drop representing extra head added. It will indicate whether the pipe is too small (excessive head added) or whether the pipe is overkill (no head added). You can find on line calculators for this, e.g. search pipe resistance flow on line calculator. I am guessing a 2 inch pipe has little loss at this flow. This is the so called water power. It is the output power of the pump. The pump may only be 50% or so efficient, so the mechanical power delivered by the motor needs to be greater by this ratio. The electrical input power to the motor is greater again to allow for motor efficiency. This might be 60-90%. In practice the efficiency of pump and motor are determined from user manual or specification of the actual devices with the actual loads (head and flow).
Q:Standard said that the fire pump should be certified by fire water pump, fire water pump and living water pump what is the difference?In addition to the brand, the same function of the pump, the impact of its price factors? Please advise Master ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ only feel so hard ah
1, fire pump is actually divided into many kinds, such as car, fire hydrant system, spray system, etc., life pump is also, the distinction between them is sometimes difficult to tell the exact. Simply put, the fire pump in its design must meet the corresponding fire requirements, such as pressure, speed, work adaptability, etc., specific requirements can be found in "national standard GB 6245-2006, fire pump Fire, pumps""2, the same function of fire water pump, its price is relatively stable. I personally feel that we must find more manufacturers to understand the reasons for the price difference, and then make a choice.
Q:About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise coming from my bathroom that sounded like loud humming every 3 or 4 seconds after I would turn on the water or flush the toilet. I noticed that when this noise happened the water pressure would increase and then it would go back to normal. Then the noise started to get louder. Last night while my husband was taking a shower the water lost pressure and then completely turned off. Now I have no water at all whatsoever except for maybe a few drops when I turn the faucet on. I have a private well and when I bought the house I was told that the well is underneath one of my bedrooms because the house was built on to and they built over the well. I know I can get to the pump from the crawl space. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone know what it might be or maybe even how much it could cost to fix?
Do you have a pressure tank? if so you might need a new pressure tank. My well had a similar problem which required me to replace both the pump and pressure tank. check your tank first if you have one if not you will have to replace the pump unfortunately you are in a predicament on location of the pump this pump should be removed vertically and with a crawl space this will prove to be difficult. I hope this helps good luck on the situation. If doing yourself please note this is a 2-3 man job on pump replacement. Pumps generally run between 100-300$ make sure the pump you purchase meets ampage requirements of the existing pump.
Q:no water is running my deep well pump kicks on every 15 min. it runs for 1-2 min when it kicks off then a noise like someone threw a ball against the house. can you help
it sounds like either your pressure switch is messed up or your pressure tank isn't working right
Q:1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)
nicely, you probably did numerous sturdy issues, yet there is something incorrect with your rigidity cap. it rather is what controls the rigidity on your gadget, until eventually you have a leak some the place. it would additionally be the reason on your overheating, because of the fact after it gets warm it somewhat is going to easily blow the water out of your cap. automobiles are made to run at or close to the boiling element. The radiator cap keeps the super heated water interior the gadget. automobiles want severe temperature to help in burning the gas thoroughly. it rather is ordinary for you vehicle to get some ranges warmer than your thermostat putting. you basically have been given to get a cap and verify the neck of the radiator. You gotta carry that rigidity.

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