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We have a 4 bed room colonial (on a Slab no basement) It has a new 38000 btu propane heater in the main floor. However the home was built with Electric baseboard heat. The new heater dose fine on the main floor. I would like to either put a pellet stove in or a pellet boiler and replace the electric baseboard with hot water base board through out the house. That would mean heating with only pellets. I know this could be costly but would it be worth it in the long run? Or is there another option?
If you are going to the expense of installing hot water radiators (baseboard), look into other boiler options such as natural gas (if available in your area), Propane (costly to operate), Oil, Electric (costly to operate). Installing Hot water heating system in a building built on slab can be quite costly. Have you looked into a heat pump? If the area you are in does not consistantly cold temperatures below -10 celcius (14 fahrenheit) an air to air heat pump would be able to heat your home in the winter and cool it in the summer. Ground Source Heat Pumps are more costly to purchase and install but much cheaper to operate (comparable to Natural Gas in operating costs) if you have the space for the loops. Verticle Loops take less space.
The residence is in Maine and we don't have natural gas yet. What would be the most reliable system.
As far as efficiency the math says oil but take my advice and STAY AWAY!!! In my experience repairing these units you will spend every last dime you saved on fuel in keeping the unit running.
We have a combi boiler, the heating is working, it is firing up, the pressure is fine etc. However, when I turn the tap for hot water it works for five seconds max then goes freezing cold. It's an Ideal Classic boiler.Any ideas of how to fix it? We've got a call in to a couple of boiler companies, but predictably aren't having much luck getting someone out very quickly!!Help!
To start you did the right thing to call the technicians, second try to warm a bit of brandy and put some honey in, I don't think you have any problem with the boiler must be some connection from the boiler to the heating or/and the thermostat I have to draw them (boilers) on the plans and some times the connections, Robert C might be right as well. They will have this wee machine that would read what's the problem and will know right away. I feel so sorry for you, hope they can fix it soon as they arrive. And if not just warm a bit more of Brandy he he. Wish you all the best and give you a star for good luck. Kisses and hugs.
recirculation line
Further to a previous answer. Most boiler feed water pumps are multistage centrifugals. These pumps have a minimum flow requirement that must be maintained to prevent imbalance to the rotor that can lead to thrust problems and damage to the pump. The minimum flow bypass is designed to deal with this problem.
And which gives the best value for money
In my opinion there is none , every boiler i have had experience with is junk, they leak , break down just when you need it, always needing parts, that are hard to find, always have a flame failure, rust always needing chemicals, are noisy, pop bang, takes for ever to heat up, get a heat pump, or a good old fashion furnace [forced air unit] there more efficient, heat better , and are cheaper to operate, so you have to have a separate water heater, ,[it also last,s longer]
Hi - I'm a newbie so please be patient ! - My Gas Fired central heating Boiler (I have a HALSTEAD 60 type boiler installed) has a knob on it that I can set to off or from levels 1 through to 6. I have no idea what this knob's function is. I do know however, that located above this knob, there is a light that keeps coming on, and once it comes on, the boiler stops firing. I then usually leave the heating off for some time and twiddle the knob and turn on and off the electrical power to the Boiler and subsequently will usually get the Boiler to fire again when I hit the Manual Reset button that is located over the aforementioned 'knob'. I have checked the thermostat (which is located in the hallway) and I know that it's working fine because when the Boiler IS firing, I can turn it off or on by adjusting the thermostat accordingly. How can I get rid of the problemI have with the boiler 'cutting out' and the subsequent ignition lockout light coming on ?? Thank you !!
seems like you got a moisture problem in the fuel you might want to call a heat and air man to check it for you
Just bought a new house and the hot water from the sinks is scalding. The boiler is an older Burnham RS-112 with a tankless coil. From what I can tell via online searches, I have a manual mixing valve as I do not see a black knob or similar to adjust hot and cold water settings. Assuming this is correct, how can I identify the valve to adjust the water temperature?
ask the old owner about it
My heat boiler is sometime leaking when it is running. It uses water heat. My friend said it is because the pressure is too high and suggested me to turn down the tempereture little bit. I turned turn from 210F to 200F. It leaks less ofter, but still leak. One thing I notice is the cool water valve is always turned on (since it was installed 3-4 years ago), but my friend's is always off. Should I turn off my cool water valve? Is it dangerous to do so in case the water is dried out? Any avice? Thanks.
I think this is a hot water boiler and the safety valve is leaking ( a brass valve with a Handel and pipe from this going down near floor,where it is leaking ) The expansion tank may be waterlogged ( no room for water to expand when boiler is heating the water) If so you need to turn off a valve between the tank and the hot water system .drain all water from tank close drain valve and open valve between the tank and the hot water system again .this would now give system room for expansion .Note some expansion tanks have a water glass on them to show you the water leavel ....Hope this helps........Mel.......... Note: The expantion tank is located above the boiler area should be around a 30 gal galvenized tank,and only half full....