• XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor System 1
  • XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor System 2
XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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1 Information

a, Number of cores:

1,  2,  3,   3+1,   3+2,    3+3,  4,    4+1,    4+2,   5 and so on.

 

b, Construction:

Conductor: Solid or stranded copper  Insulation: Cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE) or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)  Filler: Polypropylene filament with lapped binding tape  Binder: Binding tape  Inner sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)  Amour: Galvanized steel wire armored(SWA) or steel tape armored(STA)  Sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) 

 

c, Nominal Section  Area(mm2) :1.5 2.5 4 6 10 16 25 35 50 70 95 120 150 185 240 300 400 500 630 800

 

d, Features

 XLPE  insulated power cable do not has excellent electric, mechanical properties,but also has powerful resistance against chemical corrosion,heat resistance and enviromental stress resistance. Its structure is simple. The long period operating temperature is +90 °C. It is conveninet to use and can be laid with no restriction of different level.

 

XLPE insulated steel wire armoured power cable: XLPE/PVC insulated power cable has a number of advantages over paper insulated and PVC insulated cable. XLPE cable has high electric strength, mechanical strength, high-ageing resisting, environmetal stress resisting antichemical corrossion, and it is simple construction, using convenient and higher operating of long term temperature. It can be laid with no drop restriction. 
Various of flame-retardant and non-flame retardant XLPE cable can be manufactured with three technology(peroxide, silane and irradiation crosslinking). The flame-retardant cable covers all kinds of low-smoke low-halogen low-smoke halogen free, and non-smoke nonhalogented and three classes of A, B, C.

 

2 Standard:

IEC60502,and BS6346, VDE, AS/NZS, UL,etc or as customer's request.

 

3 The Rated Voltage(kv):

1st class 0.6/1 1.8/3 3.6/6 6/10 8.7/15 12/20 18/30 21/35  2nd class 1/1 3/3 6/6 8.7/10 12/15 18/20 - 26/35

 

4 Application:

1)These cables are most suitable for direct burial or for installation on trays or ducts,  Where there is a risk of mechanical damage, armoured cables should be used.

2) For laying in ground along route with large difference of level able to bear external mechanical forces.

 XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

Q: Bvvb 300 / 500V is the number of square wires Bvvb300 / 500V is the number of square wires
VV: Copper core PVC insulated PVC sheathed power cable Cable for power distribution KVV: Copper core PVC insulated PVC sheathed control cable Control cable KVVP: Copper core Polyvinyl chloride insulated polychlorinated chlorine Ethylene sheathed shielded control cable that is shielded control cable
Q: I have an old craftsman Powr Panl (yes spelled that way) and it has an extension cord on it that has 10 individual wires on the inside. There are 5 dull white ones, and then five that are: bright white, red, black, green, and brown. Any ideas? This is the original cord, and was hooked up in 1950 at one point. Any ideas?
Standard colors for power cords these days are white (for neutral/return), black (for 'hot' - think bad guys in black hats, it's the wire that will zap you if holding onto the kitchen faucet when live and you touch it), and green (for ground). Note that the white wire is the return path that carries current while the green is usually connected to the case or chassis and should trip the circuit breaker if it begins to carry current. A guess? The name Powr Panl suggests that this is a power distribution panel with multiple outlets. It's possible the color coding was used to help track connections to ganged panels. Just a guess though. With perhaps more detail, a better informed guess could be made. What does the panel look like? How large are the wires? To what do they connect? Feel free to email for follow-up.
Q: I installed a ceiling fan/light combo in my room. because of the location of the switches, the switch that controls the light is on one side of the room on circuit 1, and the switch that controls the fan is on the opposite side of the room on circuit 2. What is happening is that there is only 1 common (white) wire coming from the fan/light combo. My circuit breaker keeps tripping if the commons from circuit 1 and 2 are tied together on the one common from the fan/light. Is there a problem with my fan? Is there a problem with tying 2 commons together from 2 different circuits? Is it my fancy CB? (it's one of those new ones required in bedrooms can't remember the name right now). Thought about hooking up a normal CB tomorrow to see if that makes a difference. Any other suggestions?
Are okorder
Q: i under the house. Does that mean I will need to have the house rewired
Yes, any damage or missing things are on you. Foreclose house typically are as is.
Q: I need to wire two switches that connect to an electric bulb so that if I turn one of it to 'on' position the other switch should switch it off when I toggle it and vice-versa. i hope I was able to explain myself clearly here.
sophisticated problem. do a search over google. that will could help!
Q: Does anyone know what the voltage means on electrical wire sheathing? Some 14AWG wires show 600V and others are 800V.I have a burnt wire that shows 1000V.They are all 14AWG, stranded, copper wire. I just don't know what the voltage rating means. Does the wire support up to that many volts or does the sheath resist heat better the higher the number is?
The voltage shown is the maximum that the insulation can handle. Different types and thicknesses can handle different voltages before failing. Wires are burnt by current, not voltage.
Q: I am installing a new exhaust fan in my bathroom and along the joist I will be attaching it to, there is a black electrical wire that runs right along it. There is a bit of play in it, and I guess I can tack it upwards to move it out of the way, but was wondering what would be the best way to take care of this. I think the original installation had the fan either pinned up against the wire or had the wire sitting on top of the fan unit. The new fan unit is bigger, so I don't think it can sit on top of the box. Note: this wire is not the same wire that is providing electricity to the fan.
In the UK house wiring uses Red for live, Black for neutral and Earth is bare copper (sometimes with a green or green/yellow sleeve). Take care, I've seen wire colours used in correctly - always verify. If you are not 100% sure get a qualified electrician, bad/ inncorrect house wiring can be lethal. For a plug (flex) Brown live (usually fused), blue neutral, green/yellow Earth. If you cut an old plug top off take out the fuse - this way is someone plugs it in to a socket they won't be exposed to live mains.
Q: I recently used some wire that is half as thick as regular wire for electrical. And i am wondering if that will work or should i get some thicker wire?
Despite what some guys say, bigger is better. Speak to an electrician and get the correct size or go back to whatever you refer to as regular wire or a fire may be the result.
Q: I replaced a light socket that came with wire pre attached to it. I Replaced the socket with screw the wire on type socket, and used Pricola LL7763 Type Set-1 18AWX2C 105C electrical wire, how high would this be rated for amps and watts? I using it for a light bulb 100W and a space heater set low, maybe 800W total peak usage, is this safe? Thanks, Sean
Yo should never plug a space heater into a light socket. That is not safe, irregardless of wire size or type.
Q: I have NO way to hook up electric to a whirlpool bath in 2nd floor (electric panel is in basement in opposite side of house) was planning to go out through attic then run line outside.to then come back into panel. What is the best way to protect wiring?. alsois it best to bury this line or make it so it can be clearly seen?
Call an electrician!

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