• XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor System 1
  • XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor System 2
XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

1 Information

a, Number of cores:

1,  2,  3,   3+1,   3+2,    3+3,  4,    4+1,    4+2,   5 and so on.

 

b, Construction:

Conductor: Solid or stranded copper  Insulation: Cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE) or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)  Filler: Polypropylene filament with lapped binding tape  Binder: Binding tape  Inner sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)  Amour: Galvanized steel wire armored(SWA) or steel tape armored(STA)  Sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) 

 

c, Nominal Section  Area(mm2) :1.5 2.5 4 6 10 16 25 35 50 70 95 120 150 185 240 300 400 500 630 800

 

d, Features

 XLPE  insulated power cable do not has excellent electric, mechanical properties,but also has powerful resistance against chemical corrosion,heat resistance and enviromental stress resistance. Its structure is simple. The long period operating temperature is +90 °C. It is conveninet to use and can be laid with no restriction of different level.

 

XLPE insulated steel wire armoured power cable: XLPE/PVC insulated power cable has a number of advantages over paper insulated and PVC insulated cable. XLPE cable has high electric strength, mechanical strength, high-ageing resisting, environmetal stress resisting antichemical corrossion, and it is simple construction, using convenient and higher operating of long term temperature. It can be laid with no drop restriction. 
Various of flame-retardant and non-flame retardant XLPE cable can be manufactured with three technology(peroxide, silane and irradiation crosslinking). The flame-retardant cable covers all kinds of low-smoke low-halogen low-smoke halogen free, and non-smoke nonhalogented and three classes of A, B, C.

 

2 Standard:

IEC60502,and BS6346, VDE, AS/NZS, UL,etc or as customer's request.

 

3 The Rated Voltage(kv):

1st class 0.6/1 1.8/3 3.6/6 6/10 8.7/15 12/20 18/30 21/35  2nd class 1/1 3/3 6/6 8.7/10 12/15 18/20 - 26/35

 

4 Application:

1)These cables are most suitable for direct burial or for installation on trays or ducts,  Where there is a risk of mechanical damage, armoured cables should be used.

2) For laying in ground along route with large difference of level able to bear external mechanical forces.

 XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

Q:I want to wire a switch/outlet combo to control my router in a table. All I want is for the switch to control power to the outlet -- nothing else. The switch/outlet has five screws -- ground, N, A1 and two common. When i wired the black wire to A1 and the white to the opposite common, the breaker tripped. If I move the white to the N screw, it works, but this setup doesn't seem to make sense to me. I connect the switch/outlet combo via a standard 3-wire cord to a wall outlet. A side issue is that I can't insert the router power plug into the combo's outlet. It only goes in about half way.
You say a standard 3-wire. A 3-wire outlet is not standard. A 3-wire outlet would be for a machine that is 240V. 2 hots and a white. 2-wire is a standard outlet; black white green. White is common/neutral.no voltage should be on it. Sounds like you bought the wrong receptable. Sounds like you bought a 2-pole or maybe a 3 phase receptable. I'm not too sure to be honest.
Q:UPS input and output lines should be how to calculate the number of square cable? Please answer in detail, thank you.
Do not know why not mislead. The The The The The Fire resistance is IECGBBS6387. GB is the general principle of flame retardant and fire resistant wire and cable, quoted the above criteria...
Q:I remember dialing a short 3 digit number to fix a pothole in my neighborhood (although I can't remember the number). I was wondering if there was another one I can call that could fix this buzzing' noise caused by an electrical wire by my house that's quite annoying and a bit skeptical whether I should be alarmed by it or not. Appreciate it. :)
In most cities it's 311. I believe it is in Los Angeles as well. However, the electrical lines are probably owned by your power company and my guess is that you'll have to contact them with any concerns you have or to get them fixed.
Q:I want to upgrade from a 100amp service panel to 200 amp service panel, I am hiring an electrician, however i feel im being taken advantage of (im disabled), I would like to know how to find out what the load/rating is on the existing wires from the power hub accross the street to my electrical panel really are, the wires are underground and every bid I have gotten calls for the tar road to be cut up and entire new wires installed and I dont have that kind of money. Also since the house is NOT that old I dont think the wires need to be replaced. since some of my neighbors have upgraded w/o tearing up the road etc.
I'm not seeing that the conduit is rated for being buried. They make a cable that can be buried or exposed outdoors without leaking electricity. You're going to want to go 12 or 10 gauge wire because you may be running some pretty high drawing tools out there. The next question is where are you hooking it into? Is it the regular breaker box and if so, can it handle the additional amps that you'll be adding? I'm not saying you can't do this, but if you do it wrong, it could kill you. Not grounded, mixed up hot wire and neutral, improper ground, etc. If, if you decide to sell and it's not up to code for your area, you may have to bring it up to code and at that point, it may cost as much or more than the original instalation.
Q:I am wiring a new screened-in porch, and i need to run wires to a switch box through conduit. I plan to run conduit from the basement out to the box and then into the ceiling, where i will then change the wire into reqular Romex when it is in the enclosed ceiling. I need to know how many wires will fit in the conduit. I was planning on using 1 inch conduit from and to the switch box. I am using 14-2 wire through a 1 conduit. thanks
your question is how many wires will fit in the conduit? your wires should occupy 75% or 3/4 max of the diameter of your conduits (to allow movement) what i do is to take couple of wires and place it inside the conduit, using a plier i push all the wires to one side if they occupy 3/4 of the conduit then thats the max. (some times G14 and 16 wires go into a single conduit). so this is the practical way of measuring how many wires go into your conduit. yeah the other guy is right (you also can use PVC flexible conduits, so you can wire your screen directly to your panel switch. if your local electrical code permits you)
Q:3 plugs plug the wire, black brown yellow how to pick up the wire 2
If there is no wall, you can in the wall when the embedded tube, if it is already a good wall, it is necessary in the wall slotted wiring, how to do depends on your wall status.
Q:I have replaced phone chargers, computer parts,speakers, etc. Sprays don't help, I have tied up the wires, bagged them, put them out of her reach. I can't catch her doing it to spray her with water. I am getting angry, going broke and love my cat too much to get rid of her.
Get one of those cheap water guns and squirt the neck and tell them NO in firm but not to loud voice they should stop. P.S. make sure the gun is not to high in power spray bottles work well also.
Q:I just bought a 30 year old house. My family is just starting to replace the roof, because the shingles and a lot of the plywood is damaged. My dad pointed out that the power enters the house through the roof, and said I should call the power company to have it routed through the side of the house. Is this necessary? Will it be costly? Thank you!
Although it is always better to run through the side if you can, there is no reason to move it now, you have a roof jack around the conduit so it is as water tight as it should be now. Many of the older homes did it this way so your fine.
Q:I never had this happen before. I had pre cooked bacon in the microwave, on a paper towel and cooked it for 135 sec. This is what I do all the time and never smelled like wires burning. It usually smelled good.
maybe wires burning get it checked micro draw a lot of current if it is an older house the wiring may not be up to the load have someone check it for you
Q:I have a box in my bathroom with 2 light switches. I'm trying to replace one light switch with a light switch + outlet. The existing switch has a black (hot) wire and a black output to the light fixture. I need to add a common/neutral/white wire to the new switch which will also have a GFCI 120v outlet. In the box there are 4 white wires connected together with one of those 4-plug wire connectors. I have always used twist-caps before to connect 3 wires at most. I am not familiar with these plug-in type connectors. It looks like those plugs are one-way / insert only / no removal. I believe I need to tap into that with a 5th white wire, but there are no open slots in the plug connector. What should I do?
In my opinion, these things Quik-Conns, are trouble. The safest, best way out of this is to call a pro. The reason why is that the NEC does not allow a GFCI receptacle on with a lighting circuit. If you have a stack switch/GFCI receptacle, you will notice that there wires coming from the switch part while the GFCI has screw terminals. This is so they shall be kept separate. Good luck in all you do and may God bless. EDIT: The only acceptable way to remove wires from them is to cut them loose. If you pull, tug or jerk them out, you will actually loosen the tabs that make contact, thus causing a loose connection which leads to them overheating. Heat cause fire. Get the point? If you have to do this, Cut them. Strip 1-1/4 of insulation off of the four existing wires and 1 pig-tail. Twist all 5 wires together, cutting off the excess. Install a Big Blue wire-nut. I advise against doing it this way, as it will not meet the National Electrical Code, and insurance companies look for ANYTHING to deny a claim.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products