wafer type check valve

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Product Description:

Specifications

Double flanged Double Eccentric Butterfly Valve
PN10/16/25
DN100 ~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

                                              EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Shaft bush: gunmetal

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Q:Fast fast question about aquarium check valves?
The airstone is not too big, unless it causes the water to bubble right out of the tank. Then you will need a valve to divert the excess air to an unused air line. If the airline is already cut, just put the check valve wherever the airline ends. If it's not cut you can put it anywhere. The arrow on the check valve should point toward the aquarium. If it says IN and OUT, then the OUT is on the aquarium side. If you want to test it to be sure, blow in one end of the valve. You can't blow air into the side that connects to the aquarium. Be sure there is a drip loop in the air pump electrical cord. If water were to somehow get in the air pump or drip on it, water might follow down the outside of the electrical cord and go into the the wall outlet. To make sure that doesn't happen be sure the cord is looped down lower than the outlet and then loops back up before it's plugged in. Get a second airstone any time in the next few weeks. About once a month, trade airstones, putting the recently used one into a jar with white vinegar. A week or so of soaking will unclog the airstone so that it can be used again several times before needing to be discarded. If you do have excess air, I find that running a piece of airline tubing to a spot away from sight and putting a short piece of pipe cleaner in the far end will muffle the hissing sound of the excess air.
Q:Blow off valve or cold air intake?
well unless the jetta comes with a turbo there is no need for a BOV. the CAI would be the better choice for performance.
Q:What rhymes with valve?
Sorry to all those saying salve and halve (and one could add calve) -- in these words the L is silent! Thus for valve there is no PERFECT rhyme (defined as using exactly the same sounds from the vowel of the accented syllable to the end of the word). The best you can do is a NEAR rhyme in which most of the sounds match, with as few sounds changed as possible, and the 'substitutes' matching as closely as possible. These COULD include dropping the L altogether, but I'm not so sure that salve, etc. work very well Varying the vowel: delve, elve [from a scientific acronym], helve (handle of a tool such as an ax), shelve, swelve ('to swallow'), twelve revolve, solve Varying the final consonant (and possibly the vowel) The closest match would be changing /v/ to /f/, but these words, again, mostly have a silent L (half, calf, ). The only exception? The name Ralph also changing the vowel: elf, shelf (but the -v forms are better matches) a voiced /th/ (as in this NOT thin) is fairly close to the /v/ sound -- as a result mouth (the verb form) might work. (why does mouth work better than salve? Perhaps because the ow sound is closer to the al of valve than to the short-a of salve, cat, etc.) health and wealth --with a changed vowel and un-voiced /th/ is little tougher, but maybe. . .
Q:The pressure relief valve leaks on my electric water heater...?
Shut of gas or electric and water feed valve to tank. Open hot water faucet to relieve pressure then close faucet. Connect hose to drain at bottom of heater and open drain. Put teflon tape on new relief valve. Loosen relief valve to introduce air so water drains out. It is possible to do this on the fly by removing old valve and installing new one immediately. If your not that confident, you can just loosen old valve by hand to the point that you have just a couple of threads holding it in place. You will hear air sucking in. The tank only needs to be drained to below the level of the relief valve.
Q:replacing a faucet, but i have a broken hot water valve?
There should be a main shutoff valve to cut the entire water supply to the house. If you have a basement the main valve would be where the water supply comes into the house. 99% of the time that is in the front of the house. If you live in a slab house then the main water shutoff is usually near the hot water tank in a pipe that typically comes out of the floor. If it is not there then it will be in the yard (usually the front yard) undeneath a metal cover. You can always turn a valve off and then check water by opening a faucet. Remember that you need to give it a couple minutes to see if it has shut off fully as water may drain out of house pipes. If you are just going to replace the hot water valve then you may have a shutoff for that above the hot water tank. Most lilkely the inlet side but could be the outlet side or even both. You can try those. Now you replace the valve once you are sure that water is shut off. You may not need to drain the hot water tank. Just turn it off and see if water continues to come out. Just turn a valve off and check to see if the water shuts off. Eventually you will find the right valve. Just remember it can take a while for water to drain out of the pipes. If you need help replacing the valve just add an additional comment and I will check back. Describe to me whether you have copper pipes or galvanized pipes and the type of shutoff that is there now.
Q:How is heart valve dysfunction measured?
With a tape measure.
Q:civic power boost valve?
While I'm not familiar with the power boost valve specifically, it looks similar to a rising rate fuel regulator which is used more for forced induction applications like turbocharging and supercharging. If you were to install this on a relatively stock car you would risk running an extremely rich mixture that the stock ecu would be unable to compensate for which in turn could cause damage to your engine. The stock fuel regulator that currently sits in your car is more then sufficient enough to keep up with simple bolt on parts and shouldn't need replacement unless you are planning on doing true engine work or forced induction. As far as comparing different companies' spark plugs and wires it would really be a matter of splitting hairs.
Q:Question about gas valve on grill?
To answer your question directly, as long as the valve is open gas will continue to flow until its turned to the off position.
Q:Help! Sticky Trumpet Valve?
I would wager there is no dent, but the valves aren't quite straight. They have to be straight. Don't know what it will cost to fix, they may have to be replaced.
Q:1993 pontiac bonneville bad egr valve question ?
You most likely have a bad egr valve. The valve is stuck open, that is why the idle is so bad. In normal operation, the egr is never open at idle. The valve being open at idle causes the map sensor to misread the manifold vacuum. This make the computer dump extra fuel through the injectors. That make the catalytic converter overheat, because there is raw fuel going into it. You may have already ruined the converter, but you want to deal with the egr valve first, then see if the catalytic converter is bad.

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