• TPG Type Vertical Inline Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • TPG Type Vertical Inline Centrifugal Pump System 2
TPG Type Vertical Inline Centrifugal Pump

TPG Type Vertical Inline Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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TPG series single stage  vertical inline centrifugal pump is the second generation of high efficiency energy-saving product designed by our company based on many years of production experience as per the performance parameters stated in the internatonal standard ISO2858 and the national standard JB/T6878.2-93.This pump can also be used in oil and  gasoil  environment, for this condition, we make our pumps based on the new standard API 610 tenth edition It is an ideal substitute for normal pumps like SG and D multi-stage centifugal pumps. The series has a flow range of 1.5-1600m3/h and a lift head range of 5-125m, which includes many specifications like basic, diversion and cutting types. According to the difference in working medium and temperature as well as meterial and structural changes of the flow-through part, it can designed and manufactured into TPRG hot water pump,IHG pipeline chemical pump and YG pipeline oil pump with the same performance parameters. Accordingly, this series can be widely applied to replaced the normal centrifugal pump completely to be used in all cases.

 

 

Working Conditions:

 

1.Suction pressure ≤1.0MPa, or the maximum working pressure of pump system ≤1.6MPa, namely pump suction pressure +pump delivery head≤1.6MPa, pump static tes pressure at 2.5MPa. Please specify the working pressure of the system when placing an oeder. To acquired working pressure of pump system greater than 1.6MPa should be specified separately when placing an order for our conenience to use

 

2.Ambient temperature<40°C,relative humidity<95%.

 

3.Volume content of solid particles in medium to be delivered shouldn't exceed 0.1% of unit volume, granularity<0.2mm.

 

Note: to handle medium carring small particals, please specify when placing an order for our convenience to use wear resistant mechanical seal.

 

 

 

Rang of Application:

 

Daily and fire water supply for constructions,air conditioning system,cyclic pressurization for other cold and hot clean medium.

 

 

 

Type Designation:

 

 

 

TPG TPR TPHG TPYG TPGD 100-160 (I) A(B)

 

 

 

TPG – Vertical Inline Centrifugal Pump

 

100 – Diameter of pump inlet and outlet (mm)

 

160 – Nominsl diameter of impeller (mm)

 

I –Flow classification

 

A – Primary cutting of impeller

 

B – Secondary cutting of impeller

 

 

Technology Parameters:

 

 

Flow:1.5-1200m3/h;

 

Head:5-150m;

 

Power:0.18-250kw;

 

Rotary speed:980-2900r/min;

 

Cabilre:15-500mm;

 

Temperature range:-20°C-+120°C.


Q: And would a water pump off any 302/5.0 fit the 1985 F-150 302/5.0 whether it was from a Mustang ,or Crown Victoria
What year is the Mustang/Crown Victoria? Best of luck!
Q: i have a 1994 honda accord lx. i was wondering what the water pump is for and if it goes bad can i still drive around without it thanks
Honda Guy is right -- the water pump circulates the radiator fluid and ensures your engine operates at the correct temperature. If your water pump goes bad you should NOT drive your car. You can ruin your engine if it overheats. Get it replaced ASAP if it's bad.
Q: My deep water pump buzzes when it pumps or something it just happen this morning so whats wrong with it
many times the diaphram is torn. This time of year if it freezes the diaphram is made up of plastic and could tear. for this reason humming and no pumping. whether it doesnt freeze the diaphrams purely have a limited existence to them. you additionally can desire to ascertain the front and go out of the pump the place the water is going in and is derived out. examine for blockage. something from leaves to sticks to moss could be in there. maximum pump diaphrams can relatively get replaced. you are able to order a sparkling diaphram online without needing to interchange the finished pump. many times 3-6 screws and watch intently the way it comes aside and positioned it back at the same time the comparable way. the first human can do it with little hassle.
Q: One repair shop on the phone says I will need new water pump, coolant flush and *850.00. On the other hand the dealer says I may need tow other drive belts (alternator +). Second dealer says I may need a water pump! I do not wish to get stuck with extra costs! any one with experience?
On a 10 year-old car, if those parts have never been changed, then it's a good time to do it. The alternator and other belts have to come off to do the timing belt. The water pump is in there, too. When it fails, then the same parts you're just having replaced have to be removed to replace it. The incremental cost to replace the belts and water pump when you're replacing a timing belt is little more than the parts themselves. It's relatively cheap insurance against additional expense in the future. Finally, if the water pump is being replaced, the coolant has to be drained anyway. If the coolant is more than 3 years old, flushing/replacing it is recommended anyway. Just be sure that the shop isn't billing you the book time for each of these jobs individually. By doing it all together they have significant time (and cost) savings.
Q: Intelligent pump controller, water is full water transfer automatically shows the next pool of water shortage, what is the matter?
The sensor is out of order or the line is out of contact.
Q: I will be replacing my water pump tomorrow and my question is can I use copper spay gasket to spray on the water pump gasket?it this stuff good?99 ford explorer 4.0 ohv with 144k,mileshere is a pictures of the product.
Sure, why not? Usually, the metal area when most water pumps are bolted too are cleaned with a scraper of some kind and old gasket matter is removed. That surface should be cleaned, flat, and free of irregularity. Most mechanics, if they use any kind of stickum - like contact cement from a tube, or the costlier, but not-needed specialty sealers, is applied to the pump surface so the gasket stays put and not move when installing the bolts. The glue does not do any actual sealing, just the fiber gasket will. None needs to be applied to the engine side that you scraped clean. Make sense to you? It's probably a good idea to service the cooling system with a non-caustic flush cleaner before hand -since all the coolant will come out during the change. Then add a additive that neutralizes acids with the new anti-freeze.
Q: I posted this earlier but nobody really answered my question . if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? The bolts holding the pump in are around it near the timing chain cover but they don't look like they are inside it. the pump is clearly driven by the serpentine so should I be fine not removing my timing belt to fix the pump? its leaking. Also I know you should replace the timing chain+tensioner but I inspected the chain 400 miles ago its properly tensioned the belt is in good condition its a chain it will last the life of the car its not the cheap belts.
Are you forgetting to mention something? Ah! Year, Make and Model. Engine size is a plus ... only a fool who knows nothing will answer your question without knowing the at least needed to know information ... What do you mean: if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? You've said: Timing chain and yet, the first answer by You may be right said: If you can change the pump without removing the timing belt then go for it, you are lucky. See what has happened when the needed to know information were not specified? .. and how do you expect any of us to know the question you have mentioned before and could not read your history in YA? I've rest my case ...
Q: We have fresh running water..no well... We just want to install it on our playground for the kids to experience a manual water pump. Can it be attached to running water? Do I need a tank? Help! Thank YOU!
Go okorder before you do anything serious or the local health department. This could be opening up a whole new avenue of new lawsuits and illnesses to you and those around you, check first. My daughter drank some water out of a free flowing well, well she was plowing a field recently, she contracted a parasite that almost killed here, one that only comes from birds that drops it's feces while drinking at a water supply. Some states require drinking water to have a cement barrier 18 inches thick and three feet wide around it. Sorry.
Q: What does water flow mean?
Forehead... Flow do not understand it....
Q: My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
If the water pump impeller fail your heater will not work properly because the coolant is not circulating .If coolant is low or restricted heater core will result more or less the same condition.However overheating can be cause by timing too.Blown head gasket can be verify with compression test.Water pump can leak while you are driving and may leave little to hard to detect trace of leak.It can pissing for a few seconds and stop for a while. Do not over look the pressure cap.It can cause overheating symptoms boiling over the recovery tank.Plug rad will definitely cause that.The cooling fan -if electric can be faulty. Some has a module or relay activate by a temperature sensor.Some has a temp.sensor sending signal to the COMPUTER and the computer turns the e-fan on or off.If any of those components is faulty.you can have overheating problems.check it out

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