• Single-stage Single-suction Horizontal Pump System 1
  • Single-stage Single-suction Horizontal Pump System 2
Single-stage Single-suction Horizontal Pump

Single-stage Single-suction Horizontal Pump

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:Standard export package or following customers' requirement.
Delivery Detail:Generally with in 20 days, depends on the quantity of your order

Specifications

XBD-W Horizontal Single-stage centrifugal water pump
Flow :5-40L/S
Pressure:0.18-2.0Mpa
Attractive
Well performance

Kaiyuan XBD-W Horizontal Single-stage, single-suction centrifugal water pump for fire fighting:

Feature:

XBD-W fire pump is of horizontal, single-suction, Single-stage and multi-sectional, which is a newly developed energy-saving pump. Its performance parameter and technique norms meet the national standard on the fire pump. This new pump can run more efficiently, with less noise, longer life.

XBD-W series are with 5 models of 40 specific types.

Rating flow: 5-40L/s

Pressure range: 0.18-2.0MPa

Fitted Motor Power: 2.2-180KW

Inlet/outlet caliber: DN50-DN150mm

Application:

XBD-W Fire Pump set can be used to transport non-grain fresh water and liquids similar with water. It is mainly used as water booster in fire system; also it can be widely used for water drainage in mines, water boosting supply for high building, long distance water transportation, hot-water transportation in hotel, bathroom and boiler system and other water system.

Q: I do pump sales ~ only to enter the line soon ~ often asked how many levels of motor? I can't recognize myself! So ask for advice here
Look at the speed, see the modelFor example, the actual 1430r/min synchronous speed is 1500 rpm, the speed formula: speed = time (60 seconds) * frequency (50HZ) divided by the number of pole pairs one pole of 2 pole, which can be calculated 3000 83019 1500=2 on pole or 4 pole motor.See model is more straightforward: for example motor model is Y 132 M- 4Y, three-phase asynchronous motor, the three-phase asynchronous motor product name: YR for winding type asynchronous motor; YB explosion-proof induction motor; YQ high starting torque of asynchronous motor. ?132, a high center (mm)M code, frame length4, the number of polesFrom the motor nameplate marked, you can see that the motor is 2, model FW12-2, speed 2840
Q: are there any pumps that can save energy more? Environmental protection is necessary and the price is not high.
Water pump. ( Pond ) Sump pump. ( Flood prevention ) Auto water pump. ( Radiator ) What is the specific purpose of the pump.
Q: I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?
Stop guessing and have the cooling system pressure tested.
Q: I bought a new water pump for my 89 S10 Blazer with the 4.3 V6. The guy at Autozone wanted to know if I wanted a standard one or the heavy duty. I bought the heavy duty one because it was only $5.00 more. Are they just built stronger or do they actually move more water?
Mistake #1. Auto Zone doesn't stock anything close to the quality as an OEM part. If you want a better than average OEM water-pump get an aluminum Stewart Stage 1, 2, 3 or 4. The impeller builds more engine and cylinder head coolant pressure which prevets steam pockets in the heads. Little does Jason know that not all water-pumps created equal.
Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks
If it's going down while nobody is using water then the check valve or foot valve is leaking through when the pump is off. It should pump it to a determined PSI then shut off. I suppose there could be a leak somewhere in the line, but I suspect the check valve. It's pretty common. ....the ballast does need to be pressurized but I doubt that's your problem. If that was bad you would have severe water hammer.
Q: I think the water pump on my 40 hp mercury outboard 2 stroke is not working, the hole witch usually pours out all the water that was used to cool the engine does not pour any water at all. Is this a problem with the water pump? If not what?
requires visual inspection of the water pump. actually, checking the telltale outlet first might be preferable.
Q: Okay, I'm setting up an NFT hydroponic garden and am now looking for the water pump. I would like some suggestions for one that will give a steady stream at a good rate for the plants. But, it must have a minimum lift of 5ft to reach the first level.I would prefer one with a flow rate adjustment but if you could at least make a suggestion to the GPH it should pump for the right flow after a 5 ft climb I could search more in that range for one I like.Thank you!
I think you may want to look at the small pond pumps and just about any nursery or home supply store or landscaping store. they may have the specs on hand, or see if they can demo one for you. some places have a display pond set up already. You also might try a small swimming pool pump and put a voltage regulator in the line and adjust the pump speed that way. maybe rig a sewing machine pedal in the line and use a C clamp for an adjuster. I love rigging thing. It may not work with a gfi plug.
Q: I have an 1982 El Camino 305 small block and am having troubles with determining if it is the gasket or the pump. I can't quite locate a leak, but it seems to centralize from the water pump and drip down the hose to the radiator. After my engine gets hot, which mind you my temp light has never turned on, and I shut of my car steam rolls out from behind my pump. I think it is the pump and please be it so. (Easier and cheaper fix. Replacement with a inexpensive part XP.)
There should be a weep hole on your water pump from where the antifreeze will be leaking if the seal is gone. Clean it up real good and try to see if that is where it is leaking from. Also check the thermostat gasket. If I remember correctly it is located above and just behind the water pump on a 305.
Q: I have a 1996 Volvo 960, wagon. I need to replace the steering and water pump on my wagon, and I am wondering if any how can give me instructions on how to do so...
that's a TOYOTA and not a GM vehicle!! in case you're fortunate you will in no way ought to replace the two pump ata ll!!! B U T <<< you need to do preventative maintenance here. AT this mileage, have all your fluids replaced, yet basically at a TOYOTA dealership! this could preclude the water pump and ability guidance pump to pass undesirable for you ALL fluids ruin with time and age on the line. Even the BRAKE fluid gets extremely poisonous and reason CALIPER and grasp cylinder mess ups. in case you FLUSH AND FILL with clean fluid it truly is going to shop a majority of those issues for you! THE NOISE popping out of your pump might merely be telling you that some fool at a QUICKY LUBE HAS used the incorrect fluid int here!! in case you pass directly to TOYOTA< they are going to use precisely the superb FLUIDS< filters and ALL components. and supply you a real guarantee you are able to pass decrease back to on!!! have confidence ME in this! A TRANS fluid employing a NON TOYOTA fluid will smash the trans. same for directing pump and WATER PUMP! basically genuine TOYOTA coolant could be used in that engine or HEAD injury will effect. sturdy success!
Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.

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