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ELECTRO GALVANIZED IRON WIRE

Galvanized wire hot-dip zinc-plated and electro galvanized iron wire are the primary wire products of Hengli. The common sizes applied for electro galvanized wire and hot-dip galvanized wire are from BWG6# to BWG30#. Wire with smaller diameter or bigger one also available for customer requirement.

Single coil package for Electro galvanized iron wire can be different from 1 kg to 1000 kg. Custom orders electro galvanized wire also available.

Surface Treatment: Hot dipped Galvanized (zinc coated)
Diameter:0.3mm-5.5mm (BWG6-BWG6)
Tensile Strength:340-550mpa/mm2
Zinc Coating:30-270 g/m2
Big Coil Unit Weight:25-1000 kg/coil
Small Coil Unit Weight:1-10kg/coil


Package: in common, plastic inside and PP (hessian outside), also can packed with other package according to the requirement of the customers

Common Usage of Electro Galvanized Wire:

this kind of wire is extensively used in construction, handicrafts, woven wire mesh, express way fencing mesh, packaging of products and other daily uses.


ELECTRO Galvanized Steel wire of Power Cable Amouring
CoatingZinc coated, galvanised
Dia.meter0.8MM--5.0MM
Min zincing weight20-25 g/m2
StandardBS or ASTM
Packingcoil and pallet
Optional Information
HS Code7217200000 Wire of Iron or Non-alloy Steel
PaymentL/C or T/T
LoadingTianjin port
OriginChina
Minimum Order20 Ton


ELECTRO GALVANIZED IRON WIRE


Size

0.9mm

1.25mm

1.6mm

2.0mm

2.5mm

3.15mm

Diameter range (mm)

+/-0.025

+/-0.035

+/-0.045

+/-0.05

+/-0.065

+/-0.08

Tensile strength (N/mm2)

           
                        340-550

Elongation (%)

7.5

                      10

Min. Zinc Coating (g/m2)

155

180

195

215

245

255

DC resistence (ohms/km)

216.92

112.45

68.64

43.93

28.11

17.71

Torsion Test (min. Turn)

33

24

37

30

24

19


Q:A 41.7-kg sign is suspended by two wires, as the drawing shows. Wire 1 makes and angle of 42.2deg with the horizontal and wire 2 makes an angle of 58.8deg. Find the tension in wire 1 and wire 2.
To solve this, you have to find 2 equations, because there are 2 unknowns. Assume, Tension in wire 1 = T1 Vertical component of T1 = T1 sin42.2 Horizontal component of T1 = T1 cos42.2 Tension in wire 2 = T2 Vertical component of T2 = T2 sin58.8 Horizontal component of T2 = T2 cos58.8 Since the sign board is in equilibrium, the forces must balance each other. Horizontally, the horizontal components of both forces are balancing each other. Therefore, T2 cos58.8 = T1 cos42.2 T2 = (T1 cos42.2) / (cos58.8) -------------------(1) For the vertical components of the wire, both are balancing the weight of the sign. T1 sin42.2 + T2 sin58.8 = (41.7)(9.8) T1 sin42.2 + T2 sin58.8 = 408.66N ----------------(2) Combine (1) into (2), T1 sin42.2 + (T1 cos42.2)(sin58.8) / (cos58.8) = 408.66 T1 ( sin 42.2 + cos 42.2 tan 58.8) = 408.66 T1 = 215.66N Subst T1 = 215.66N into (1), T2 = (T1 cos42.2) / (cos58.8) = 308.4N Hope it is correct ^^
Q:I live in a condo and Im trying to wire a new light. When I wire it, it stays on constantly despite hitting the switch.The wiring Im dealing with is as follows.At the switch on the wall, there is a red wire, brown wire connected to the switch. A green wire connected to the box in the walll behind the switch.In the ceiling there is a brown wire, green wire, and a white wire wrapped with an unstripped red wire.Coming from the fixture are black, white, green.Ive tried connected black-brown, white-white green-green but the light stays on no matter what. Also tried white-brown, black-white, green to bolt. Still the same thing happens.Not sure what to do.
Assuming (and one never should) that the red wire at the switch is actually stripped and around one of the two terminal screws, then it should be correct, previously this ceiling box must have been being used for possibly a smoke detector or anything that they wanted to remain hot... but you should be able to (and either turn off the breaker, remove the fuse, or at least make certain that the switch is in the off position if you can, and look closely, often they get installed upside down, but dont confuse this with three and four way light circuits, lol) strip this end of the red wire at the ceiling box and wire nut green to green, white to white, and the remaining black (should be) from the light fixture to the red you stripped, this should solve the problem for you. Michael
Q:Well i bought new speakers for my 92 integra and when i installed them i also wanted to get new speaker wire.how would i go about installing all new wires?would you recommend have circuit city do it or is it not as hard as it looks?
Follow the old wires. It is very simple. Chances are there is nothing wrong with the old wires.
Q:wic iring codes for turner plus three wired to uniden washington cb radio
Typically there are 3 wires. The shild is ground. Of the remaining two wires, one is push-to-talk and the other is the audio lead. Find the push-to-talk (switch) lead by checking continuity from the shield to each of the other two wires. On one of the remaining two, there will be continuity when the mic is keyed. That is the switch lead, and the other one is audio.
Q:I want two lights on two 3-way switches.1. Power from basement box into light #1 with 12-2 wire. 2. Another 12-2 wire from light #1 to light #2.3. A 12-3 wire from light #1 to switch #1.4. Another 12-3 wire from light #2 to switch #2. Will this do it?
nevermind what I think....the guy under me knows EXACTLY what he is talking about! Do it exactly like he says. His way is better than mine was, honestly, because he has more experience. Thats why I deleted my own answer----we call that professional courtesy to seniority and its what electricians do when someone has more experience than we have speaks up. Now it doesnt matter what I think....I only have 22 years experience and someone with more experience than I has given better, sounder advice than I did. You should listen to him, not me.......or anybody else whom cannot match or exceed his experience. Or didnt you know that all Electricians are part of the same Brotherhood? This is why we always agree (or agree to be wrong). I was wrong, obviously, and my advice, second rate, compared to the advice you are about to get. So.....Pay attention! Wisdom follows!!!!
Q:Me and a buddy took the 305 out of the car. I have a 350 to take its place, but was wondering what are the only wires i need to have a clean engine bay. the old engine has a million wires hooking up to everything. Some muscle cars only have spark plug wires, the starter wire and battery cable. What must i do to get mine like that? i dont care about emissions. what must i change or add to the new engine?
I have an '84 Monte SS and wanted the same thing. Here's what I have: the 2 wires that come from the harness and go to the starter (1 Positive, 1 S terminal), oil gauge wire, temp gauge wire, the alternator wires, the wire going to the distributor cap, and the tach gauge wire going to the distributor cap. That's pretty much it, as well as your battery cables, and spark plug wires. You really don't need to do or add anything as long as it runs and everything works that needs to work, it'll be fine. I'm going by memory, so if I forgot something I apologize, but that's the best of my recollection right now. If you have anymore questions you can email me.
Q:hi i was wondering if its possible to electrify chicken wire? i have chickens in some fields and they keep wondering and chicken wire is alot cheaper than buying proper electric fencing??
sure, go to a hunting or farm store and buy a deer and game fence electrifier, it runs of a 12vdc deep cycle battery. Its essentially tow parallel wires that carry the voltage. you can place it behind the chicken wire, and if the chickens start messing with the fence, it will short the electrified wires and , zap. the fence electrifier can be set for the duration of shock, so for small game like chickens, the shortest shock is best, they will learn quick enough to stay away from the wire.
Q:I want to connect one of my rear sony speakers along the baseboard to my receiver. The specs say that the wire comes with 4 terminal blocks, with 4 connections on each terminal. My question is what will connect to what? Will the speaker attach the the flat wire cable that will attach to the original speaker cable which will connect to the receiver? It will be much appreciated.
it relatively is least puzzling to run the cord only alongside the perimeters of the room decrease than the carpet. only %. up one section at a time from the tack stripping with pliers. confirm the cord isn't on the tack stripping. Press the carpet returned onto the stripping whilst a piece is finished. in case you may bypass a doorway that has a seam you are able to tape the cord to an unraveled coat hanger and bypass it decrease than the carpet. be careful to no longer bunch up the padding and watch your knuckles on the tack stripping. Worst case state of affairs you are able to cut back and re-seam that beginning.
Q:I hooked up my Klipsch floor speakers with the old-cheapy wire and then bought, I think it was monster cable, and bi wired it. Big sound improvement. But I've heard pros and cons on monster cable. I have three zones to wire in my house. If I bi wire the other two zones what's the best wire to get? You can spend a small fortune on wire. If I bi wire, zone 2 would be 30 feet x 4 and zone 3 50 feet x 4. I read that if one of the wires is silver it's better as silver's the best conductor. This I knew already. But, when I bought the wire that I did, it didn't state anywhere on the label that it contained silver and I think that would be a drawing point. In fact, I didn't see any wire at that store that said it was part silver and it wasn't Walmart but a major electronics store. I did see some that had silver colored strains but so is steel and aluminum. I also read on another forum that CAT 5 wire works well for bi wiring? Thoughts? Opinion?
They colour the wire by plating it. The silver is one conductor colour and the other wire is copper colour. Separate strands. This is so that you can keep the polarity straight when you are hooking up your system. You will also notice a raised ridge on the insulation of on conductor in two conductor wiring. Again it is a mark to let you tell the + from the - wires. Silver wire would be a good conductor, but much more expensive than copper and about equal in current flow. It would also corrode more and make for connection problems.

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