• HW Horizontal Mixed Flow Pump System 1
HW Horizontal Mixed Flow Pump

HW Horizontal Mixed Flow Pump

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1. Purpose:
       Model HW pump is a horizontal single stage single suction volute mixed flow pump and suitable for transporting pure water or the other liquid with both physical and  chemical natures similar to those of  water, with the  temperature   of   the  liquid to be transported not over 50 , for the farm land irrigation, industrial and city water supply and drainage etc.  multiple places.The pumps performance  range:  flow 130~9000m /h,  head  3.5~22m.
2. Features:
        Simple  structure,  reliable  use,  easy  installation, high  efficiency, small  body, light  weight.

3. Mode  of  actuation:
       Direct  and  variable  actuations.  The  common  movers   are  motor and diesel engine. Please note the model (power, rotating speed) of the mover so as to make sure of  the norms of the clutch or the belt pulley .
4. Water  pump  direction:
       Viewing from  the pump  inlet, the  impeller rotates  counter-clockwise generally (clockwise with 650HW-5, -7, -10 pump).
5. Feature:
        1. Model HW pump mainly consists of pump cover , impeller, pump casing,  shaft, muff and bearing body (aperture 350mm) or bearing stand (aperture 400mm) etc. parts (Fig.1
and 2).
       2. The pump cover  is connected to the pump casing and the water-in pipe separately. There should a  proper   interval  between the planes of both pump cover and impeller , too small
interval will produce friction; while too big will  cause the pressured water  inside  of  the  pump  to  flow back greatly to have  the pump efficiency lowered.  The practically used proper  interval  is  0.3~0.7mm (push  the  pump  shaft  to  the  pump  inlet)  and the interval can be adjusted through increasing or decreasing the paper pad thickness.

Q:After reaching a height of 50 feet , there should be enough pressure to hose around 20 to 30 feet of water from it for curing concrete structure ex: columns, slab area etc. How many inches ( diameter ) of rubber hose is required to plug the water pump for pumping water ?
from a physics point of view, the power required depends on the flow rate as well as the pressure (from the water column height). So it's impossible to say.
Q:Have a Toyota RAV4. About 156, 000 miles on it.Yesterday as I started driving, there was a sound coming from underthe hood that sounded similar to a stick in bicycle spokes. Got to theend of the block and stopped and noticed there was smoke comingfrom below the belts.Got back to the house and the temp was up really high. No fluid.Added fluid and water and it was leaking, but not from the radiatoritself, but from towards the back of the engine?Might this be the water pump?
Nope, could be a bad heater hose that burst. Could be an engine gasket but it will be more issues. I am more inclined if is like you described towards the back of the engine, is the water hose for the heater or the valve that controls the flow.
Q:I think my water pump is leaking and I want to replace it, but I can't figure out how to get the pulleys off. There is a large nut on the shaft that the pulleys are on, and I can't figure out how to remove it, or if the nut is attached to the shaft, and the entire shaft is supposed to come out, or how it's set up. Please help. Pictures would be great if possible. Thanks!
With the belts ON - take a big wrench ( 12 crescent or ) and place it on the large nut holding the fan on. Carefully smack it counter clockwise, (lefty loosey) until it comes loose, The threads for it are on the pulley. remove the 4 or 5 bolts holding the pulley, ( a vice grip on the large threads will hold the pulley to help remove the pulley bolts. Remove the water pump. Clean the gasket mating area GOOD - when you think you have it clean - clean it again - You do NOT want to find it leaking when you are finished. Some prefer RTV silicone sealant -- I prefer permatex #2 non-hardening. Tighten all the bolts only slightly before the two final torque's are completed - do not forget to tighten in proper sequence similar to installing a wheel, (bolt 1 - 3 - 2 - 4), so as not to cause undue stress on one side or part of the new pump.
Q:The water pump was just put on by the previous owner! It was in water! So what could cause this to happen? Is it bad? Should I wait for water to pump up to it? Or should I just put a new one on?
Read my answer from your other question !
Q:My husband has a 78 t-bird and it has steam comming out of it. He replaced the water-pump 2 to 2 1/2 yrs ago. The warranty was only for 1 year should it need to be replaced this soon?
It's possible. It depends on how many miles you've put on the car since then. The Water pumps on the older cars are not designed to go for more than 30-40K miles. Also if the car has been sitting the seals might have dried up a bit allowing for the steaming effect.
Q:90kw pump star delta start, in the end to use the circuit breaker, AC contactor (Star contactor, angle contactor), what kind of thermal relay?
The first thing to take the star delta start voltage step-down start, star rated by reducing root 3 times, power is also reduced, 90kw / V 3 = 52kw starting current is 5---7 times will reach the rated current of 52kw * 2 = 104A, starting current will reach 500----700A is normal, if you match breaker sister ordinary 800, D at the beginning of the special motor, they start filtering instantaneous current, 250 can be,The star delta starts with only three contactors, and there will be no 4The contactor can be more than 110
Q:1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)
196,000 miles three water pumps is not that bad. Depends where you purchased them. If you opted for cheapies like auto zone then you get what you pay for. Since you are having this problem over and over again, I would agree with the ford technician, purchase one from Ford and see how that does.
Q:water pump and thermostat were replaced 18 months ago motors done about 20 hrs since replacement have checked and there are no blockagers in water tube what could be the problem thanks
change ever year rubber don,t last sitting on in the heat
Q:So I have a 2.4L chrysler cirrus. The water pump appears to be not working(pumping the fluid through) and the car over heats. They location is on the side since its a front wheel drive car. I have both a Chilton and Haynes manual and they both say i need to loosen the front engine mount and lower it. Thats about it really..Now i was wonder couldnt that mess up something. I dont plan on doing this myself but i would like to know how. Is it possible for the engine to fall out? Might sound stupid but im not sure how all that will work so i would like to know. Thanks -Joe
the belt that drives the water pump also has to be removed. usually this is the timing belt. this is a big deal. if you get the timing belt re-installation wrong the motor will not run properly, or will be damaged. go to a competent mechanic that you trust. don't go to a random shop for this job. also, if they are loosening the timing belt anyway, ask them to replace the belt also. this will cost you a bit more now, but save you money in the long run.

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