HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
900000 set/month
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Product Specifications:


Type:

Needle

Brand Name:

OEM

Bore Size:

17 mm

Outside Diameter:

23 mm

Model Number:

HK 1715 RS

Precision Rating:

ABEC-1

Seals Type:

Open or Sealed

Number of Row:

Single Row

Place of Origin:

Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

Material:

Chrome Steel

Lubrication:

Grease Lubrication

Package:

Plastic Bag and Box

Equivalent:

HK 1715 RS






Product Applications: 


Needle roller bearings are mainly used in car engines, transmissions, compressors, cranes, etc.


Product Advantages:


1.Bearing Manufactory ( Have our own technical department)

2.High quality products (Long Life and low noise)

3.Well-daserved Reputation (Good Stock Guarantee)

4.Professional service ( Promptly shippment)

5.OEM Service,Sample is available


Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:

1.industrial packing 
2.wrap+carton+pallet 
3.colour+carton+pallet 
4.according to your requirements

Delivery Detail:

in stock or 15-30days after P.O

 

FAQ:

 WHY CHOOSE US ???

1.More than 28 years export experience

2.Strict quality control

3.Delivery in time

4.OEM service are available with good price

5.Low MOQ


HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision




Q:help
dont let price fool you, reds bearings work well for a pretty inexpensive price
Q:Im getting a new long board and deciding to buy everything separately. I want to get some really good stuff cause its for my Bday and I want it to last a longtime. So what are some goodlong boardd wheels, bearings, trucks, and decks if I want to go fast? and what durometer for the wheels? I was thinking about getting abec 11 gumballs like 81A. Bones swiss or redz bearings. Are these any good for speed?
bearings don't matter as long as they spin and are kept clean. just go to any skate shop and get the $10 ones for dh decks: Rayne nemesis, rayne demonseed, rayne hellcat, landyachtz evo, any clutch board, insect firefly, comet voodoo, any kebbek board, landyachtz top/drop speed, wheels: sector9 race forms, orangatang inheats, abec11 bigzigs, seismic speedvents, abec11 flywheels trucks: randal rII's w/ 42* plates, gullwing stalkers, sabres, crails, gunmental double barrels for cruise/freeride/allaround decks: anything kracked skulls, loaded, earthwing, bustin, original wheels: anything abec11 or orangatang trucks: paris, randal, gullwing chargers
Q:I have split the case, and removed the crankshaft and bearing seals. I want to replace the the crank Bearings. What is the best way to to get them out with out damaging the case? Also, when it is time to install the new crank do I need to use the Yamaha Installing pot tool? I can't find this tool anywhere.
Well Yamaha Service Manager 1980-90 is correct in most of what he says but he left some stuff out, sounds like he still gets his check from the dealer. Split your cases, more than likely the crank will stay in one side or the other. If this is the case that makes removing the bearings easier as the one on the crank you should be able to get off without to much strain. As for the bearing in the case, he is correct, heat it up, I suggest I propane style torch using Map Gas (it gets hotter). You will want to take the case that has the bearing in it and freeze it over night, also put your new bearings in the freezer as well. After the case is frozen, remove it from the freezer and heat up the case around the bearing trying not to heat the bearing (aluminum warms faster then steel), once the case is good and warm then flip it over and with a punch and a gentle tap of a hammer on the inner race of the bearing it should just pop out after a few taps. Once you have the bearing out then you can remove the seal if you haven't already done so. Clean the surface that the bearing sits in very well, I suggest carb cleaner or something of the sort. After it is clean heat it back up, go grab your new bearings out of the freezer and drop them right in. As long as you have the case hot enough the bearings should push right in. Let cool to room temperature and then reassemble. Put the transmission back into the case, Yamabond the mateing surfaces of the cases and push them together. I have a piece of pipe that I have made to fit onto the case at the crank bearing, you can use something similer. Then press the cases together slowly making sure that the transmission is not binding with anything and the crank spins free. After they are together put your center case bolts and and finish assembly.
Q:I need to change/ repack the wheel bearings but i've never done it before but I am mechanically inclined enough to do it. Just need to know if theres any secret steps to follow. Any info would be great!!!
The 1993 Cutlass Ciera does NOT have wheel bearings you can repack. They are what is known as Sealed Bearings. If they need grease, you MUST replace them. There is NO way around it. The Hub and Bearing come as an assembly! The job to swap out the Bearing/hub assembly is actually pretty easy. should take around an hour to do. You must remove the wheel, then the Brake Caliper, then the Rotor. then remove the big axle nut. Then remove the three bolts (torx bolts) that hold the hub to the steering knuckle. remove splash shield and remove the Hub/bearing assembly. You may need a special puller to get the hub out from the steering knuckle.
Q:nan
yea bones reds are cheap and have great performance for the price. Pretty much all of the Bones Swiss bearings are good.
Q:i have the money its just that i don't know which ones to bye
WOW okorder /
Q:I don't even know if the bearings are broken. The wheel is not spinning well and it feels like the bearings could be broken. How do i check if the bearings are broken? If they are broken, then how do i fix them or do i have to get new ones? If i do need to get new ones, then how do i know which ones to get? Or, do i just need to get a new hub? Which one would be the easiest. new hub, or try to fix/replace the bearings. By the way the bike is a BMX bike. specifically a Fit Tech 1. Thanks!
Probably a complete new front rim (wheel) assembly - minus the tire, tube rim strip.
Q:2002 mercury cougar wheel bearings need to be changed, what tools do I need? And I don't think it matters but it is a 2.5 liter.
Since this is front wheel drive, it is totally different then a rear wheel drive car. I believe some people are accidentally assuming this is a rear wheel drive car, and it isn't I believe. The tire rod has to be disconnected from the knuckle arm, so you need a pickle-fork or similar tool to pop a tapered bolt. (It actually can be done with a bell ringing effect from opposing simultaneous hammer blows.) Besides the usual sockets to remove the brake caliper, strut, etc., you need a large socket and breaker bar to remove axle nut. Once you have the knuckle out, then you need snap ring pliers to remove the bearing retainer clip. And then the biggest tool of all is a press to push the stub axle out of the bearing, press the bearing out of the knuckle, and then press the new bearing back in, and the stub axle back into the bearing. (Caution not to try pounding for removal or installation, because that will ruin both the old axle and the new bearing.) Have done similar cars, but not necessarily this exact one, so there may be some variation.
Q:I have a shaft that is in a vertical position. I need to support the axial (vertical) and the radial (side) force. I can understand how to support the side force with the ball bearings. I would just slip the bearings through the shaft and then create some kind of housing and bolt it to a structure close to it. But the radial force? The ball bearings I have do not have any type of set screw, so their is nothing to lock it into place.
There are pressure bearings which are installed (in your case) at the bottom of a vertical rotating shaft to support the weight or downward pressure of it and reduce friction. Those bearings are usually roller or needle bearings. I have seen them also with steel balls but having an identical top and bottom plate or ring. It is unwise to use regular ball bearings with an inner and outer ring for that.
Q:I'm not sure if they need replaced or what I'm getting told squeeking from my tire is being caused by thison average how much do you think this will run me ?
it depends. are they tapered bearings or are they pressed into a hub?

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