• High Quality Galvanized Electric Welded Mesh System 1
  • High Quality Galvanized Electric Welded Mesh System 2
  • High Quality Galvanized Electric Welded Mesh System 3
High Quality Galvanized Electric Welded Mesh

High Quality Galvanized Electric Welded Mesh

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:
China (Mainland)
Material:
Low-Carbon Iron Wire,Low carbon steel wire, stainless steel wire.
Type:
Welded Mesh
Application:
Woven Wire Mesh
Weave Style:
Twill Weave
Wire Diameter:
8# -22#
Technique:
Welded Mesh
Model Number:
PVC Coated Welded Wire Mesh
Color:
as your demend
Aperture:
3/8"-4" as require
galvanized technique:
electro galvanized or hot dipped galvanized
feature:
Easily Assembled,Eco Friendly,FSC,Pressure
Frame Finishing:
pvc coated or galvanized Wire Mesh
Market:
France, Germany, Italy, Russia, Indonesia, Philippines, Pakistan
length:
10-100m








Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:waterproof paper wrapped,then plastic film absorbed.or as your requirement
Delivery Detail:depend on  amount

Specifications

welded wire mesh panel
1. Electric galvanized welded wire mesh
2. Wire mesh: 1/4"-2"
3.wire: bwg12-2
4.ISO9001


Q: How do I wire MULTIPLE ones? I checked many sites and yes, I do get schematics, I've seen a billion schematics, but now I don't know how to actually put it together.My big question is, can I just solder two wires running from my 5V + terminal like that? Would there be problems?So if I have a 5V battery.
You can do this a number of ways. All of the postive terminals must be connected in some way and all of the commons must be connected in some way. This doesn't mean you have to connect each positive to every other postive, and likewise for the common. You have a few options: You can solder two wires to the positive terminal of the battery and run one wire to each load (device). You can solder one wire to the positive terminal of the battery, run this wire to the first load (device), solder another wire to the first load (device), connect this wire to the second load(device). You can solder one wire to the positive terminal to the battery, run this wire to the second load, solder an additional wire to the second load, and run the second wire to the first load. In industry, power wires are typically jumped from one device to the next to delivery power to each device that needs it. Basically, your power needs to go to each one. How you connect them is up to you.
Q: Help me, please! I have an old air conditioning system...made in 1985, and the condenser fan went out. Long story short, I bought a new fan and I don't know how to hook it up. The old fan had 4 wires coming out of it: purple, black, green, and brown. The green is the ground and the brown and the purple went to the capacitor, black to power. Then there were two smaller black wires attached to the capacitor and they lead out to other components. My new fan has a green wire, a white wire, a black wire, a brown wire and a brown and white striped wire. My problem is this: I don't know where to attach the white wire or what to do with the two smaller black wires that were attached to the old capacitor. I was told by the gentleman who sold me the fan that I splice the white wire to purple wire - then do I hook that to the capacitor? What do I do with the two smaller black wires that lead out to other components??? (Cap them off???) I am confused and need some advice!
You need to check the wiring diagram that came with the motor. It will show you what wires to hook where. The capacitor is supposed to be hooked into the starting windings of the fan to kick start it initally, then it drops out of the circuit, and the run windings take over. They probably cross-matched a motor, so the same hookups aren't an option, so you will have to go back to the place, take a drawing of what the wires coming out to the old motor are, and what the new wires to your motor are, and have them connect the dots so to speak to give you a new wiring diagram.
Q: I am building an ice chest boombox and want to wire a toggle (on/off) switch to turn the amp on and off....the amp is wired directly to the battery....my question is that I am using 6 gauge wire....but can't find any female spade connectors that are 6 or even 4 gauge to hook to the terminals on the switch.....what is a simple way to do this....am I going to have to solder the wire straight to the terminals?
Why not wire the toggle switch into the remote + wire? The one that turns the amp on and off with the head unit. 7/5/2013**** Leave the power supply wire alone. The thick 4 gauge wire that runs from the battery directly to the amp, leave it alone, don't put a toggle switch inline on that wire. Instead there's a wire from your head unit (or ignition) that runs to your amp, it turns on the amp when the head unit turns on or your ignition key is in the on position. It's usually 16 or 14 gauge. That's the wire where the toggle switch belongs. Look at your amp, this wire I am speaking of is probably labeled remote+ or ign or something like that and it's usually located next to your power and ground connections on the amp.
Q: is this a wire that like is the same as buying any other one?
If you're pushing less than 1000w rms, you should just use 10awg, if you're pushing up to 500w use 12awg.
Q: I'm looking to install a ceiling fan in a fixture that recently had just a light (no idea if it ever had a fan). When I removed the old light, I found that there were three white wires from the ceiling twisted together and connected to the white wire on the light fixture, one black wire from the ceiling connected to the black wire on the fixture, and three black and one white ceiling wires just capped together, not connected to the light fixture.Any idea what the last 4 wires are? I would think that I just need to leave them alone, however, I have to replace the box in the ceiling with one that is rated for a fan, which means I need to (temporarily) disconnect them. I have the breaker turned off that turned the light off, but can I be 100% sure that power to those other 4 wires if also off?
You don't have to know what they are, but other anwers are good esp with regard to safety. You can choose either to leave them alone or disconnect them and reconnect them inside your new ceiling box. If you want to disconnect them, be sure to mark all the cables first so you can't make a mistake when you reconnect them.
Q: I need a little help wiring my ceiling fan.Coming from the ceiling:2 green wiresground wirewhite wireblack wirered wireComing from fan:green wireblue wireblack wirewhite wireCan anyone please explain what wires to connect to what.
green wires are also ground wires... sounds like it was wired for a double switch, meaning if you opened the box where your light switch is there may be a black or red wire capped off... that allows you to run the light and fan on separate switches... as for the fan, read the instructions, the black and blue will control the fan and light. If you hook them both to the hot then the switch will turn them both on or off and you will have to control them separately by the pull chain. all green and ground together with a wire nut... all the whites together with a wire nut... and black and blue from the fan to the black from the ceiling if that's the (most likely) hot wire (or it could be the red).. so the black/blue and black together with a wire nut will put it all on one switch. if you want to control them separately than add a switch and put black with black and blue with red.
Q: Its a 3 wire chandelier, 2 are attached like a regular electric cord and the third is separate. all are the same color. the ceiling has 2 wires. one tan/white and the other is red. I am comfortable with doing the connections but unsure what wires to connect
One of the chandelier wires will go to the red and the other to the white wire--it does not matter which one goes to which. The third wire is likely bare (or green) and is a ground wire. Connect this wire to the ceiling box and to the third wire in the ceiling if there is one.
Q: i have a 1995 chevy S10 blazer and i noticed that it has 5? speakers in the door and 6x9 in the back i started looking and i found that it has 4x6 in the dash with cardboard over it but it don't have speaker wire ran for it i think its going to be difficult running wire for it but what gauge of wire should i use? and should i run the speaker wire to the head unit how would i hook the speaker wire to the aftermarket head unit or should i run it to the 6x9 or 5? i already have a pair of 4x6's ready to be installed in it as soon as i find out how to do it and what size of speaker wire it is im going to be doing it by myself
It sounds like your head-unit's speaker output is undesirable. I recommend getting a sparkling head-unit. additionally, the wiring isn't undesirable, by using fact if it have been (working example a grounding concern interior the wiring) the fuse(s) for the radio might have blown and the radio would not artwork.
Q: hey i have a 2005 toyota corolla soprt. i need help finding the remote wire, and some colors arent even on the diagram. please help i dont wanna have to buy another alternator and battery like i already have!thanks!
hey bud ,get you a d.c. tester, now the remote from the radio,power your radio up then ground the tester good,now make sure it works,then touch each wire with the point it will light up....... now from under the dash,turn your switch on to the first assor.not when all of your dash light up, and touch those wires it ill light up,now when it light up ,hold it on that 1 and turn your switch off and on ,if it goes on and off with the switch thats the remote
Q: Okay I bought a new light for outside my home. I called the electrician, he got the wiring from the ground and we added cement so we would bolt down the light. Now i need help adding a photocontrol.
yes, the photo cell will work anywhere, in fact it will probably work better where the light is not hitting it when it comes on. It will work longer if direct sunlight cannot get at it.

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