Electric Water Pump Single Stage Self-priming

Electric Water Pump Single Stage Self-priming

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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PK series are single stage self-priming pumps, suitable for both domestic and industrial applications to convey clean liquids and non-aggressive chemical fluide. The hydraulic characteristic is with higher head and bigger capacity.

◊ Application

For the correct functioning of the pump , use to pump clean water ,or non- aggressive liquids only , without sand or other impurities, such as :

1. Tank filling

2. Agricultural irrigation

3. Water transfer

4. Industrial using

5. Domestic water

◊ Working Conditions

1. Suction lift up to 8 m
2. Liquid temperature up to +35°C
3. Ambient temperature up to +40°C
4. Max. Working pressure: 6 bar

◊ Construct

Pump body: Cast Iron

Housing: Alloy Aluminum

Impeller: Brass/Plastic/SS

Motor: Electric Motor

Shaft: 45# steel/ stainless steel welding

Insulation : Class B ( Class F if you required)

Protection : IP44/IP54

Cooling: External Ventilation

Mechanical Seal: Carbon/Ceramic/Stainless Steel

◊ Warrnty : 1 year

(according to our general sales condition)

Q:Im replacing the water pump on my cougar but i ran into a snag. I got the pump unbolted but to take it off, i need to unbolt a bracket that goes behind the power steering pump pulley. I cant figure out how to get that pulley off to take off the bracket. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.: remove radiator,remove fan blade,you may have to move the a/c condenser and or compressor. and move the alternator out of the way. scrape gasket off engine block. glue new gasket to water pump and install in reverse. be sure not to over tighten the bolts.

Q:i have a 1993 chevy cavalier z24 3.1 what all do i need to do to get the water pump off and replace it: I believe if you are looking at the motor the water pump will be to your left on top of the motor and to the front. Drain the radiator. There is a big smooth pulley that turns the water pump loosen the 4 10mm bolts, remove the belt the remove the bolts. Under the pulley there will be 5 or 6 8mm bolts remove those, make sure a drain pan is under the pump because there will be some residual coolant in the motor. Scrape the old gasket off of the engine block then reverse the procedures to install the new pump. Make sure you torque the pump to the proper specs so that the pump housing does not distort. You can pick up a Chiltons manual for that car a local parts store that can walk you through this in greater detail with pictures. Good Luck

Q:Stop the engine immediately and stop the circulating pump and the condensate pump. What's the harm to the turbine?: Stop the condensate pump is not required to condensate users, such as reducing water, mechanical seal water, shaft seal cooling water, deaerator, whether you need water. Stop circulating pump requires three: 1, exhaust steam temperature below 50. 2, there is no circulating water users. 3. No drain to condenser. If stop immediately stop circulating water and condensate pump, the consequences can be imagined.

Q:I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.): I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM

Q:water flow at faucet only when pump is running, but flow is slow: Most RV water pumps have a pressure switch. They shut off a few seconds after you initially turn them on because they have pressurized the line. Once you open a water valve (faucet/toilet) the pump will start running again. Low flow could be caused by the size of the pump, size of plumbing, or line blockage.

Q:I did change water pump before but not on wv beetle?: If okorder , I have serious doubts about your doing a timing belt which has to come off and go back on to do the water pump. I also can't picture a water pump going bad in under 15 years or 150,000 miles. Spendy job, so please be sure before disassembling. OH and if you mess up on the timing belt you can bend the valves and cost yourself around 1,500 US dollars. ASE Cert Auto Tech, 92 GTI 16V 2.0L

Q:i have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse and my Car started to leak water and as soon as i start to put water it starts to leak and it wont take in the water that has on the side as well. what should i do or what do you recommend?: You did not mention the sub-model of your eclipse (if it is a spyder or not) so there is no way to know the engine option, the2.0L (non-turbo) the 2.0L (turbo) or the 2.4L? But you don't have too many options! If the water runs out of it as soon as you put it in then obviously you cannot drive it or you will do further damage to the vehicle. You need to be able to see where it is coming from (as it shouldn't be too hard by the amount it is leaking. If the water is coming out from behind the timing cover then there is an issue with the pump, but, as the other poster said, it may also be a split hose!

Q:What is the 10KV pump unit?: As the name suggests, the water pump unit is a number of pumps, and 10kV is the voltage level. According to the voltage level, what you call a water pump should be a pump with relatively large power

Q:when i drove my truck after about 15 minutes i was parked and let my truck idle afetr about a minute of idling my truck stalled and when i turned it back of it was squeeking and made some noises for about ten seconds and then stopped. I noticed that the pully on my fan coming from the water pump was wobbling. my tempuratue was still normal what could cause this i am suspecting taht the bearings in my water pump went?: you are likely right, usually the pump will leak a bit of water by this point, i did mine in my van and can be difficult cause you must seperate the fan. do not let this problem continue cause u will be broke down. replace the thermostat, bypass hose and check clutch and all hoses that are getting weak, and if possible do a power flush of the system..

Q:Im changing the water pump on my explorer. As i was unscrewing the bolts one of the heads to the bolt wore out and now its really hard to take out and its giving me a headache. any ideas of what i should do to take it out?: Drive a smaller size 12 point socket onto it.

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