Chemical Process Pump CPP003

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:	Zhejiang China (Mainland)	Brand Name:	CNBM	Model Number:	FSB
Theory:	Centrifugal Pump	Structure:	Single-stage Pump	Usage:	Chemical
Power:	Electric	Standard or Nonstandard:	Standard	Fuel:	Electric
Pressure:	Middle pressure	Application:	Chemical	Working condition:	Contimuous
Working enviroment:	Indoor & outdoor	Guarantee of pump:	12 Monthes	Guarantee of wearing parts:	3 Monthes
Wearing parts:	Impellers, seals, etc	Shaft seal type:	Mechanical seal	Customized orders:	Provide standard or customized pumps
Packing:	Plywood case, carton, pallet	Delivery time:	Small order 1-5 days, big order within a month	Shipping:	By sea, by air, by express

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Plywood case for normal pumps and machines, plate for heavy pumps and machines.
Delivery Detail:	2 days and above according to clients requirements.

Specifications

FSB single stage single suction centrifugal pump chemical process pump
1.Convey corrosive medium
2.Fluorine plastic alloy

FSB single stage single suction centrifugal pump chemical process pump

1. Introduction:

1. FSB single stage single suction centrifugal pump chemical process pump is reasonable design, compact structure, reliable performance, easy to use and saving energy.

2. Applied to convey acid, oxidant, corrosive medium (forbid to transit medium likely to crystallize) with physical property similar to water.

3. Wet parts are made of fluorine plastic alloy through reasonable design, mold pressing, machining, with advantages of strong corrosion resistance ability, high mechanical strength, non aging, no toxin decomposed.

4. It is widely used in the fields of chemical industry, petrol, medicine, pesticide, dye, smelting, paper making, plating, and food, etc.

Q: A direct type pump model with the coupling type, what is the difference?: The direct type shall be the same shaft of the pump and the motor, and the connecting shaft is a pump and the motor shall be 2 shafts, and shall be connected by a shaft coupling.

Q: I am having overheating issues with my 1993 3.4L V6 Camaro,Once I start the car with no AC or Heat on while at idle or driving the car will overheat, almost to the red line. When I get onto the highway it will slowly drop all the way down to operating tempeture.Also if I turn on either the AC or Heat while driving around town the car will not overheat.On my way home I turned everything off and let the car overheating, when I got home I opened the hood and the fans are going but still overheating.Also the major sympton is that the water pump will click on and off when I have AC blowing. It will click on and off every 10 seconds or so.New waterpump?: I should change the water pump. The vains or fins in the housing are probably worn. You will see that they are when you pull off and flip it over. Those fins is what keeps the water moving......Steve

Q: Fire hydrant and fire pump adapter difference: 1, fire hydrant is generally divided into three types, one is indoor, one is outside, is a municipal, the three has two basic purposes, which is directly connected to the fire hose or fire-fighting water, is the scene of the fire truck with water.2, fire pump adapter from the purpose, for fire hydrant system, automatic spray (spray, Yu Lin) system, divided up from the form, have walls, underground, ground type, its basic purpose is, after the fire, if the fire hydrant system (for example network system) when the water pressure is insufficient or anhydrous (water pump system damage and other reasons), through the pump adapter, the fire water supply to the system or booster.

Q: i have a 2003 dodge neon and my thermostat keeps rising to the highes level setting off the indicator (its not broken) i did have a leak in the raiditor and it was very notice able..after pacthing is up there was noproblem till yesterday now the thermostat keeps rising i admit the is very little antifreeze in ther and the rest is water but the is the same mixture tha was in the care that it was rinning off for the last three minths i cannot seem to keep the thermostat down my raiditor is in nee of repair but i m wondering if its the water pump does the water pum help regulate engine temperture? ther are no ivsible leaks and no drippiage could it be that i just need to put antifreeze or could it be the water pump or a broken raidiator? help i will give points for best anwser but really i just need help!: Codes won't tell you anything and there's no such thing as a thermostat fuse. this can be several things, but it's not likely the water pump. what fails on a water pump is the bearings, a failure that would cause this type of problem would be a frozen water pump and if that were the case, the belt would squeal like crazy and break, as it move but the w/p didn't. a bad w/p will drip coolant from the bottom just back of the pulley, there is a hole there that leaks when the bearings are bad,, but that won't cause a overheat. If the coolant is low, top it off, with the car cold into the rad and the overflow bottle. Change the thermostat, it could be frozen shut, but it is unlikely. if you rad is that shot, you could change it, but the most common cause of this sort of problem is a warped head and/or a blown head gasket. A mechanic can check for this, but take it ot one you trust, as this is about a 1,500 dollar job either way, you have to pull the head to fix it. Running it with low coolant, unfortunately can cause this. if it's not this than the rad is plugged up, but if it just started happening, and it temp gauge maxes out all of a sudden with a full coolant tank, it is likely the head gasket/head. It can also be a cracked block. Sorry to be the one to give you the news..

Q: Submersible pump coupling, what does this coupling mean?: What is a fixed submersible pump, submersible pump installed this thing to get up you ask to buy special Songchuan pump pump they'll explain it to you.

Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.: I also own an 2000 Audi A1 1.8T. I am also currently researching the same problem. It turns out that 2000 Audi (up untill 05/2000) the water pump is on the OUTSIDE and not driven by timing belt. So they can and should be changed independantly. So you should check to see if the timing belt was changed already and how many miles on it (change the timing belt about once every 60K miles to be safe). The engine codes (that has water pump on the outside) are: AEB / ATW (150HP engine). The engine code AWM (05/00 and onward) has water pump driven by timing belt and should probably always be changed together. I think these are the more powerful 170 / 180 HP engine. My Audi dealer (Beiner Audi of L.I. NYC) did NOT tell me this. They wanted to squeeze in an unnecessary additional $400 unnecessary repair for the water pump along with the over priced timing belt replacement. The Audis maybe driven by upscale market, but the dealers are still no better than the old used car salesmen. Good luck, Jong P.S. Get yourself a factory Audi service manual (I own a Bently publishing manual and Chilton VW/Audi manual). Do your own research. It's saving me tons of money. P.P.S Also, always use full synthetic motor oil if you want to avoid the engine sludge problem. Turbo engines are prone to engine sludge. Funny how model year 2000 A4 was NOT recommended synthetic oil (till recently). Could it be that back then THEY had to pay for the oil change and now all 2000 A4 are no long under bumper-to-bumper warrantee (and the more expensive synthetic oil are no longer their cost)??

Q: I brought my car to a shop because I get no heat. The mechanic diagnosed my car as having a blown gasket head because there were hydrocarbons in my coolant. The repair cost was too high, so a I figured I'd just run the car until it broke on me. A month later I see it overheating on the way to work and a month after that it completely powers down (electrically) while I'm driving and I see a lot of white smoke (coolant was all over the engine). After it's had time to cool down I can start it up just fine. I pour coolant in and it comes right back out the bottom of the water pump.Could a bad water pump have been the reason for the hydrocarbons and no heat in the first place? Could it have caused the appearance of hydrocarbons in my coolant? If the head gasket is blown and this is just a symptom, is it cost effective to replace the water pump or will it just break on me again in a short time?: A bad water pump can not put hydrocarbons into the cooling system. I had a blown head gasket on my car and it had hydrocarbons in the cooling system.

Q: Standard said that the fire pump should be certified by fire water pump, fire water pump and living water pump what is the difference?In addition to the brand, the same function of the pump, the impact of its price factors? Please advise Master ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ only feel so hard ah: 1, fire pump is actually divided into many kinds, such as car, fire hydrant system, spray system, etc., life pump is also, the distinction between them is sometimes difficult to tell the exact. Simply put, the fire pump in its design must meet the corresponding fire requirements, such as pressure, speed, work adaptability, etc., specific requirements can be found in "national standard GB 6245-2006, fire pump Fire, pumps""2, the same function of fire water pump, its price is relatively stable. I personally feel that we must find more manufacturers to understand the reasons for the price difference, and then make a choice.

Q: I have a leak and all the hoses are fine but I am not sure were the water pump is also has anyone had this repaired and what did it cost (part plus labor) in general is it hard to get to? Thanks in advance: The Chrysler Concorde came with either a 3.3 or 3.5 litre V6 engine that year. On both of these engines, the water pump is driven by the backside of the timing belt. The pump is buried deep in the front of the engine, and is one of the hardest to change of all the cars I've ever worked on. If the hoses seem to be ok, you can have a pressure test run on the cooling system to find the exact source of the leak. Most garages will do this for minimal cost, and this way you can get an estimate to repair exactly what's wrong, instead of wasting time and money on unnecessary repairs. If it does turn out to be the W/P, make sure they include a new timing belt in the estimate. It has to come off anyways, and any coolant on the belt will severely shorten it's life span.. just a little cheap insurance. As for cost; labor rates vary wildly from shop to shop, so I can't give you a precise number, but I will tell you this: Once you know what it needs, call a few reputable repair garages. They know you're looking to deal, and will often low-ball estimates over the phone to get your business, even if it means reducing the labor rate, and/ or the markup on parts. They still make money on the job, and you save.

Q: Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?: You want the pump specific to the engine. And the motor mounts specific to the vehicle. I have never seen a fan clutch that cannot be replaced separate from the water pump.

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