API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 450 mm

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Product Description:

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class

The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.

Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:                                                                                                         

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize 

Pressure Rating

 150 Class  300   Class  600 Class  900 Class  1500   Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65   mm  80 mm  100 mm  125 mm  150   mm  200 mm  250 mm 300 mm  350   mm  400 mm  450 mm  500 mm  600   mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm

 2 inch  2.5   inch  3 inch  4 inch  5 inch  6   inch  8 inch  10 inch  12 inch 14   inch  16 inch  18 inch  20 inch  24   inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A105+13Cr  Tool   Steel+A105 customize 

3-Disc

 Tool Steel+A216 WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A216   WCB+13Cr customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

5-Nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F6a  A182-F316  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A216   WCB customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B7  A193-B8  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  graphite+316 customize   

12-Bonnet

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8 customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize   

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS 1868

 

FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


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Q:Valve clearance importance?
Valve adjustments are something nobody does anymore. It really is important to do to, especially if your car is older. If your valves are adjusted to tight, you can wind up with burnt valves, too much clearance and it can quickly wear out the valvetrain. BMW reccomends inspecting valve adjustment every 24,000 kilometers. You may be able to do 30,000 Maybe more than that but I personally wouldnt. It will effect mileage a noticable amout, and your car can lose power if it has too many burnt valves. If a valve is burnt it isnt seating properly and you arent getting a fully sealed combustion chamber. It is a fairly easy maintence that you can do yourself. You need a feeler gauge to check the valve lash. you will need to remove your valve covers, (you might as well replace your valve cover gaskets lest they get leaky) and find top dead center for each cylinder as you can only check valve lash at TDC. You will need a shop manual it will tell you what the measurements should be, and give a step by step method to checking your valves. If that sounds like too much work, just take it to a BMW dealer. To those of you that think that you can let it go until it makes noise.... The idea is to keep it from getting to that point. It is a relatively easy thing to do.
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Generally, there are those who swear by and those who swear at Weil-Mclain. I am amongst the former - if installed properly and with the correct peripheral equipment. Otherwise, they can be quite touchy and very fussy. The simplest solution I can suggest is that you purchase a WM Zone Valve Control - linked below. It will be fully compatible with the rest of your system. Not so expensive and very effective.
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Haven't had it done before but: It's a pretty involved procedure. Patient is put under general anesthesia and is usually on the cardiopulmonary bypass machine (heart-lung machine) since you can't really replace a heart valve if the heart is beating. mortality for full valve replacement according to wiki is 6-8 percent, prob less than 5% for young healthy patients. Recently, many people have been doing the procedure laparoscopically. Patients are put into the surgical ICU for typically 1-2 days after the surgery. You can be discharged about a week after. Obviously there's risks, this is a very involved and definitely not a simple procedure. However, the cardiothoracic surgeons do these procedures every day for their entire lives-they're very skilled and qualified. good luck!
Q:how to check valve clearances?
Adam S, you're both right and wrong as far as needing to adjust valves. I changed 2 shims in 100,000 miles on my Kawasaki KZ1000, but my 1300 Kaw touring bike with nearly identical valve train needs checking and adjuuting every 6,000 miles or so. Go figure. Kneedragger, since your bike requires manual adjustment, you're valve train is either going to have a rockerarm type system with threaded screws and locknuts (easy) or use shims of various thicknesses to adjust the clearance (harder). Some have the shim on top of the 'bucket that covers the valve spring. With these, you will need a small, rather inexpensive tool specifically made for your model engine to compress the spring, allowing you to remove the shim. Other engines have the shim under the bucket, requiring you to remove the camshaft to change the shim. No special tools needed here, but reinstalling the camshafts correctly is absolutely vital. While this proceduere sounds rather intimidating, just remember that checking is all that may be necessary and no adjustments will need to be made. To check clearances, the idea is to turn the camshaft to that the cam lobe is pointing away from the valve and then measure the clearance with a feeler gauge and see how that compares to the recommended clearances. On shim type, clearances nearly always tighten and if the clearance is too little, you will need to install a thinner shim. I write down the clearance for each valve each time I check the clearances. If one valve tightens up faster than the others, this will give you a heads up to a possible future problem. Or, you may find they are ok this time but at the next check, you find some that need adjustment and will decide to take it to the shop that time. After a few checks and recording the clearances, you'll get a pretty good feel for how often you need to check them again. If you decide to do it yourself, by all means, get a shop manual.
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Leave the breather in, you need the freshair to enter the crankcase. Esentially think of the breather a the entrance for the air then it goes through the crankcase and up the other valve cover back into the intake/carb with all the oil vapors. If you wanted to run a closed system could put a line from the valve cover with the breather to the air cleaner.
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hard to tell looking at your pic,s. your best bet is to find a trust worthy machine shop...they can tell you if they can be lapped or if they need replacing...newer heads have hardened valve,s seat,s..if damaged they should be replaced ...valve,s , seat,s , guide,s , valve seal,s , possible rocker assembly,s , lifter,s , push rod,s ,Etc......best of luck!

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