• API Cast Steel Check Valve   250 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve   250 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve   250 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve   250 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 250 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard   Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure   Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve   Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q: Bought a 1986 GMC 350day 1 started up good - idle was rough - idle really too low, when brakes where applied, it would backfire. (day 2) Changed oil which was really dark - oil filter too... ghanged spark plugs and wires. % 10 improvement... Engine lack power and vibrates but no more backfire.day 4 Changed Cap and rotor - % 30 improvement - day 5 Got the manifold gasket replaced. Same condition but silent... day 6 Changed coil in cap ... Changed fuel filter % 60 improvement... The thing ran like new... Full power I started beliving again..Got full oil pressure 300 kpa - no valve noise Ran 30 minutes on highway.... Valves started making noise especially on driver's side... Engine lost lots of power, and vibrates a lot... doesnt heat up to much but oil pressure seems very low. (day 7) Start up the thing, and even when cold and choke on, oil pressure not as good as in the beginning. What went wrong
loosing oil pressure like that,it sounds like the oil pump.if the parts arent getting oil,it will loose power.also check the timing,it could be off and loosing power.if the timing is off,it will make the valves noisy.
Q: I play the trumpet and I took it home for Christmas Break. On Friday I am playing Amazing Grace at Church for New Years Eve, but the problem is my valves on my Trumpet is sticking and I don't have any valve oil for it. Is there any other oil that I can use for the Valves? It will be really great! Thanks :)
Pull it out and try saliva. Always worked for me
Q: The shutoff valve for the hot water under my bathroom sink has a very tiny leak. It is coming from where the turn knob meets the valve.So long as the valve is either all the way open or all the way closed, all I get is a single drop every couple seconds. But if it is anywhere in-between, it is a pretty steady drip.What's the simple/quick fix for this? Replacing the entire shutoff valve is probably not an option because it is an apartment complex.
In this case, the terms simple and quick do not apply. What's happening is the valve packing gland is leaking. That's the seal around the valve handle that keeps the valve from doing what it's doing now. The valve needs to be replaced--period! It is actually the simplest and quickest fix for the problem. Of course the water will need to be shut off while it's being replaced. The good news is that a competent plumber can do it in fifteen minutes unless he runs into problems. Then, it can take up to 3/4 hour. Your landlord needs to address this issue.
Q: A friend of mine who is 26, was just told by her doctor that she has aenlarged heart valve. Is this really serious? Will she need surgery? Why can't I find any info on the internet? Please help I'm really worried. Thanks
I am a CCMA Look up the word Cardiomyopathy. This is the Medical Terminology for an Enlarged Heart Valve and Yes it is VERY serious. Best Wishes
Q: Hi guys, Thanks for your advice. RandyK is right, my dad's GP told me that if we don't get the valve operation, his heart will swell in years time and might cause more complicated illness. Just let you know my dad had seen his cardiologists recently and had some scan or tests done. The results will be discuss in next appointment, they suggested that mechanical valve would be used if the operation go ahead. At the mean time I just hope and pray his condition will under control by medication. Wendy, may I ask you how old are you when you had your valve operation? I am too scare to suggest or encourage my dad to do the operation. Because if there is any difficulties or worse ...during operation, I will be the one send him away......If anyone have a relative like my dad's case,(76 years old had valve operation) please give me some advice.. Many thanks
Hi David, just saw your post. I was young when I had my valve replaced. I was 37, now am 42. My mother had her valve replaced at the age of 54. Honestly, that is the oldest person I know of that has had valve replacement. As with any surgery, there are alot of risks young or old. The older a person is though it may be tougher especially if he has a lot of other health problems. Just take all of this into consideration when you and your father are discussing all the details, etc. and find out any and all options that he has before proceeding with surgery. Best wishes to you both.
Q: I recently adjusted the valves and put new valve covers on my bug and now I have a leak around the fron corner of one of my valve covers. What happened? What can I do?
probably the gasket slipped or the bolts need to be tighten more but just snug them down.
Q: Hi there - We have an old house with galvanized steel pipes. Our main water shut off valve leaks -- the leak is from the packing nut. A plumber came out yesterday and tightened it, and it now barely leaks at all, maybe one drip every 24-48 hours (which it probably has been doing for the 6 years we have lived here, we just didn't know when we bought the place). Rather than replacing the whole valve (which, apparently, has a high liklihood of breaking the pipes in the foundation, requiring jackhammering and whatnot), we are thinking of installing a new shut off valve higher up on the pipe, where I guess it's less likely to break. If we go for the second valve, is there a way to close up that old valve (hydraulic cement, tape, solder, etc.), so it doesn't leak at all? The tiny leak is coming from the stem of the handle - can we remove the handle and cap it off or something? (And thanks to those of you who answered my husband's question about the pipes yesterday!)
with my background in replacing galvy with copper or even new galvy is not that your problem is fixing the old valve, but replacing that one with a new one and new lines to the house. your first problem is is there another shutoff at the street meter and if so, shut it off and replace from the meter to the house and add new ball valve at the street on your property and another at the house before entering the foundation. getting through the foundation is a whiz as the removal of the old pipe will enlarge the hole enough to allow new pipes to enter. on the inside, install another gate or ball valve if accessible so you thru a basement and then feed copper throughout the home. The electrolysis that the other person is speaking of is a valid point, but i believe in doing thing right. add a union between the galvy copper (6.00) and forget about it . sometimes if you have a lot of iron in your water, rusting will start in a year and destroy your couplings...so do it right.
Q: what to use to inflate self sealing tube with the presta valve?
Gazoo If you do not have a pump that will accept a presta valve, then you can either buy a presta schrader pump, or a presta valve adapter. I have an adapter in each of my seat bags, they are only a buck or so, and will allow you to use service station air on your trips. Just cause you may not know, the presta valve has a rotating screw inside the valve. So to add or release air you must take your fingers and twist on that knurled circular end so that the presta valve extends away from the valve stem. Then when the tube is filled, twist it back tight to seal it off. Soccerref
Q: My third valve won't move at all. I haven't played my trumpet in a while and I tried to oil it to get it to unstick but it still won't move at all. People say to screw it off but I can only unscrew the little cap at the bottom of the valve where you push in, not the white button at the top. Help please! Thank you so much! =]
i got here across that Dennis Wick valve oil is a procedures more advantageous ideal to any that I easily have used. you'll locate it on Amazon. If cleansing with dish cleansing soap and heat water would not artwork, alongside with the Dennis Wick oil, I recommend that you're taking it to a restoration shop. be careful at the same time as cleansing now to not get any cork or felt moist. only dip the truly valve section into the water.
Q: I've just been told that I need to replace the valve cover gasket on my 97 Volvo 850.....to the tune of $650.00 .....ouch.....is it that difficult to fix?......can you use the red gasket sealant? is there a difference between the head gasket and the valve cover gasket.......yeah I know there probably is.......but when I look on line all i can find is head gaskets......no valve cover gaskets........which scares me into thinking they are the same thing.....i'm hopeing i'm wrong......if its the valve cover gasket it looks like it would be right on top of the engine and fairly accessable.......or am I wrong......sure would like to save the $650 if it is something i can do myself!!!!
valve covers are easy to remove and replace. don't pay 650 bucks for that. yes, you can use the red sealant, but I would suggest high temperature sealant, usually comes in black, it's oil resistant also. just move anything out of your way, unbolt the valve cover, clean the surfaces off the gasket will touch (cover and engine) apply gasket maker and re-attach.

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