• API Cast Steel Check Valve   200 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve   200 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve   200 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve   200 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 200 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard   Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure   Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve   Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q:I've just been told that I need to replace the valve cover gasket on my 97 Volvo 850.....to the tune of $650.00 .....ouch.....is it that difficult to fix?......can you use the red gasket sealant? is there a difference between the head gasket and the valve cover gasket.......yeah I know there probably is.......but when I look on line all i can find is head gaskets......no valve cover gaskets........which scares me into thinking they are the same thing.....i'm hopeing i'm wrong......if its the valve cover gasket it looks like it would be right on top of the engine and fairly accessable.......or am I wrong......sure would like to save the $650 if it is something i can do myself!!!!
Valve Cover Gasket is a tuff thing to fix alone. I would say, take it to the shop and pay the $650.00- look at it like this, at least you will have a garentee if anything goes wrong you take that bad boy back and have them hook it up the right way! Best of Luck!
Q:So it always seems that when I see the jet and foot valve out of a well there's a drop tube between the jet and foot valve. My question concerns this drop tube- is it necessary? I've got a leak somewhere, replaced the foot valve and still have a leak. I'm inclined to get rid of the old drop tube, it's crusty and likely to be the source of leaks either now or in the future. any reason to not just plumb the foot valve directly to the jet? Thank you kindly for useful information.
This drop tube is the suction line. This tube will always be below the water level in the well. I would talk to a competent water well company and get their recommendations. Regards, Dale
Q:I just dropped my 3rd valve slide from my trumpet on the ground. It fell with the curved end first. I can't see any dents and it doesn't look bent, but I oiled it and everything and it's really hard to move. Could it be bent? How can I fix it?
Be sure that it is aligned correctly when you place it back in the valve casing. When you are putting it back in, it has to turn until you hear a click, indicating that the valve guide has fallen in the right space. This aligns the valve with all the ports. (The valve guide is a small plastic piece located under the valve spring. This valve guide must snap into a little notch inside the casing. When it does, the valve will be perfectly aligned. You will know when the valve guide is in the right place because you will feel and hear a click and the valve will not rotate any longer.) After thorough cleaning, oiling, and correct valve placement, if you still notice it sticking, take it to a repair shop to have it chemically cleaned. They are typically very good and will ensure your trumpet is in proper playing condition.
Q:the blow off valve has a hose that goes to the intake. Do you need that hose.
if you want it to operate properly the yes you will need it. The valves are also adustable but you need a tech manual to and special tool to do it propperly dont just guess at its setting rather know it. I assume the picture i looked at was your engine. Unless you like taking chaces i would recomend you put your timing belt cover back in place. If anything should get in there between your t-belt and gears or pullys the belt could be damaged and if it does get damaged you could damage the valves in the event of t-belt failure. I know people like to see the belt and gears moving and if that is what you are wanting i would suggest installing one of the clear t-belt covers that are available. unfortunatly i do not know who makes them. if you cant find out go to a car show and talk to gear heads that have them on there cars.
Q:Hi, I just got my 20 gallon freshwater aquarium yesterday and set it up today with the filter,water, pump,etc... I bought an AquaCulture 20-60 gallon double outlet air pump and didnt realize it had two valves. I only need to use one though ...what should I do??p.s. The bubbler thing that lets the bubbles out is a rectangle and its long but it isnt working in the middle of it...? would that be because of the double valve?p.p.s. the pump came with two check valves.Thanks, Sarah
You only need to use the one valve, each valve will do 10-30 gallons so you'll be fine. As to the bubbler problem (sounds like a bubble brick to me, so that's what I'll call it), it's most likely uneven. If the brick isn't level it won't let out as much air in the right places. If leveling it doesn't work try adjust how much air goes into it, but the double valve won't be the problem for this. It came with two check valves for the two outlets, you only need to use one.
Q:What are the function of reed valves on a motorcycle?
there are quite a few types,reeds/reed valve/disc valve..all 2 strokes have some sort of reed system...idea is that fuel is sucked past the reeds,these then close letting the fuel travel where it needs to go,opening when its time to suck fuel in....and so on
Q:where is the oil pressure relief valve at in a 2003 ford focus
The oil pressure relief valve is a type of valve used to control the oil pressure in the car engine. Oil pressure can build up by a motor malfunction, low volume of oil, instrument or equipment failure, or fire. Basically, oil pressure is relieved by allowing the pressurized oil to flow out from an auxiliary passage system. The relief valve is designed or set to open at a predetermined set pressure to protect pressure vessels and other equipment from being subjected to pressures that exceed their design limits. When the set pressure is exceeded, the relief valve becomes the path of least resistance as the valve is forced open and a portion of the fluid is diverted through the auxiliary route. In the 2003 Ford Focus, 3.8 engine, the oil pressure valve is located on the back of the timing cover above where the oil pump bolts up... don't install it backwards you will have the same problem... while everything is dismantled, I suggest you change your oil pump, also; and you will get a new pressure relief valve with it. I hope this helps Papaw
Q:do I need a new water heater or can this ne be fixed?
It can be fised, you just need a new seal. Measure the width of your pipe and go get a little package of them. They probably cost $2.99. Turn your water off at the street, then drain your water heater to keep it from flooding and possible problems. unscrew the joint replace the washer and put it back together. There is a book you can get at book stores that's called Hoe To Fix Damn Near Everything. It is a must have and has saved me thousands of dollars over the years. Good Luck, Jackie b
Q:I don't have one single water shutoff valve in my house that will shut anything off completely. It looks fairly easy to repack them, and I have the tools, and there are instructions all over the internet. The question I have for the experienced among you is what packing material do I use? I have heard graphite thread and teflon tape and even joint compound.Is one better than the other? Easier to use?Also, if there are any pitfalls I should know about before I undertake this, please advise.Thanks in advance!
Well if you talking about the water shutoff valves under sinks then you need to first shut off the water comming into the house at the main shutoff valve near the street , Or at a line comming into the house that connects up to the valve you are trying to fix or you may take a slight bath while trying to fix the valve that wont shutoff. Then Go to the shutoff valve you want to repair in that line where you shut the water off at and unsrew the handle at the base of the handle shaft using two wrenchs to hold both the nut on the shaft while using the other to hold the shutoff valve .this will prevent twisting the valve right off the connecting lines. Most of the time you will find it has a rubber gromet attached by a screw to the handle shaft.this is what you need to replace with a new rubber gromet which you can get in an assortment box at wal mart or homedepot or lowes for a low price. If you are using teflon thread or jointcompound you are repairing a Pipe joint leak where water is leaking externally of the pipe,not a shutoff valve leak .
Q:my mechanic did a valve clearance check and said it was OK and when I asked him about the clearances he said that they were 6 thousands and 9 thousands however in my book the measurements are different they are as follow: ( i don't understand what he meant by thousands)inlet: 0.10~0.140.15~0.19 exhaust: 0.14~0.190.20~0.24so did he just make it up or did he get the wrong measurement.
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