• API Cast Steel Check Valve  400 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve  400 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve  400 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve  400 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 400 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Standard   Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure   Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve   Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q:1990 Pontiac Sunbird, I took a piece of hose going to the egr valve to try and see if it is working properly, but with car off, I can suck through, and blow out into hose going to egr valve, and it doesn't seem like there's any seal stopping air flow either way...is it supposed to, or what is this supposed to do?
a good egr valve should be tested when idle. when idle, remove the hose on the egr valve and replace it with a hand-held vaccum pump. by applying pressure, the engine should idle rough or die. if so, the egr is working properly. if it doesn't respond or it doesn't hold any pressure, the egr is bad. if it holds pressure but there is no sign of rough idle, egr is clogged. (my husband is an automotive technician/smog technician)
Q:when heater heats water there is a small leak thru the releif valve. need answrers to possible reasons for malfuntion. leak is not continous.
Have you tried opening the valve for a couple seconds? Sometimes that will clean out the crud causing the valve to leak.
Q:My furnace cut out about a year ago. The hvac guy i used told me the gas valve was no good and that the flu was partially blocked. I cleaned out the flu, he replaced the gas valve ($700+) and it worked great for a year. Today the furnace does not fire up. Pilot is working. I cleaned out the flu (there was definitely quite a bit of debris, so that was probably the cause for the shut off) .... The flu is now clear, but when i turn the system back on the thermostat calls for heat, but there is no gas flow to the burner... could the valve have failed that quick, or should i be looking at something else like the CO sensor or something... just looking for some direction before shelling out another 700 bucks... Thanks in advance for any ideas or assistance....
There are a few possibilities. The valve runs on a low voltage line. The low voltage is provided by a transformer. It it possible the transformer is bad. Be sure the power switch to the furnace is on. (should be on the side of the furnace. Easy way to check is (on the thermostat) turn the fan switch from auto to run. The blower fan should come on. Check that the gas valve is in the ON position.(if you have had to light the pilot it may still be in pilot position.) Another possibility is a clogged gas line. If you have an older home rust can accumulate inside the iron gas lines. Where the gas line attaches to the furnace there should be a drip leg. This is a short length of pipe that points down with a cap on it from the TEE that goes into the furnace. This short piece of pipe is to catch any moisture or rust that comes thru the line. First TURN OFF the gas at the shut off in the pipe it's self. This is a quarter turn valve. When the handle is in line with the pipe the gas is on. When it is opposite the pipe (pointing out to the side) the gas is off. After turning the gas off, remove the cap from the bottom of the drip leg to remove any accumulation.USE PIPE DOPE not teflon tape when putting the cap back on.Turn the gas valve back on and check for leaks.
Q:I assembled my new gas grill, but I'm not sure if the burner pipes (aka venturi) are properly connected to the valves. My assembly matches the picture in the instruction manual, but I'm not sure if the seal is tight enough. How do I know? Do I attach the propane and test? I'm concerned about the safety of doing so. Thanks!
Pipe Burner Venturi
Q:can you put a blow off valve on a chevy cobalt ss supercharged?
There is no need to put a blow off valve on any motor unless it is turbocharged.
Q:I threw a birthday party last night, all went well until 2am when a crazy (drunk!) lady cut all the wires from my heating system (i guess as a prank??? dunno, she is never invited back). I have everything up and running when using one thermostat and connecting the thermostat wires (red directly to tv, Brown directly to W, and white directly to T) and not using the two Honeywell zone valves (model number V8043F. How do I connect those two zone valves to the L8148E aquastat?The valves have on bottom Th-TR, TH and TR and the two top screws are labeled end switch.If you need photos I can take them :)Thanks in advance!
fiirst okorder /.. page 8 for the picture i was looking at dont listen to the goober that says he is a contractor for 30 years, that was some really bad advice
Q:What is the primary function of valve seals?
A 'leak-down' test is the best bet, indicates the place in the process the compression is leaking and if it's across the valve stems than for definite the seals need replacing. Are not able to judge it via the smoke correctly as oil would be slipping previous the rings also.
Q:Which is worse ? And what causes it? I was told I had mitro valve prolapse but I m symptoms had worsen and so I saw a cardiologist again today and they said I have mitro valve regeritation.
Mitral valve regurgitation — also called mitral regurgitation, mitral insufficiency or mitral incompetence — is a condition in which your heart's mitral valve doesn't close tightly, allowing blood to flow backward in your heart. As a result, blood can't move through your heart or to the rest of your body as efficiently, making you feel tired or out of breath. The mitral valve controls blood flow between the upper and lower chambers of the left side of the heart. The upper chamber is called the left atrium. The lower chamber is called the left ventricle.The mitral valve allows blood to flow from the left atrium into the left ventricle, but not back the other way. The heart also has a right atrium and ventricle, separated by the tricuspid valve. With each heartbeat, the atria contract and push blood into the ventricles. The flaps of the mitral and tricuspid valves open to let blood through. Then, the ventricles contract to pump the blood out of the heart. When the ventricles contract, the flaps of the mitral and tricuspid valves close. They form a tight seal that prevents blood from flowing back into the atria. Mitral valve prolapse (MVP) is a condition in which the heart’s mitral valve doesn’t work well. The flaps of the valve are “floppy” and may not close tightly. These flaps normally help seal or open the valve. From what i have read neither is better or worse and may require surgery to repair or replace the Mitral valve.
Q:My pressure reducing valve has gone bad. This looks like a pretty simple change. My question is do i loosen the union nut first (after draining water line), then loosen the whole valve??? Then reverse to install??? Any info would be great....
Sometimes a valve can get something stuck in the valve like rust or sand and just need flushing. The reason you have a pressure reducing valve is because of the high main pressure. If you have a tight system it will build up pressure even if the valve is good if you do not have an expansion tank for your hot water tank this will also make your water heater vent about a quarter cup most every time it fires up if no faucets are leaking. You need to know how to shut off the pressure from the main. Then you are right it is simple to change the valve. The city has crazy pipe threads that you can't get but I don't think they would be on your pressure regulator Some cities have smart meters and I think they may know when you shut the valve off to the meter. Some one may be out to see why the meter stopped. The cut off valve and the meter belongs to the city or water provider in most places. Most cities do not want you to operate their valve
Q:My car has been sputtering and hesitating when I hit the gas. My friend's boyfriend says it is a bad erg valve does that sound right?
An EGR valve being open will cause mostly idle problems and light throttle/initial take-off problems...mostly when you have a high manifold vacuum is when you end up with problems because of a sticking EGR valve. Just remove the valve and clean it by soaking it in something like B-12 Chemtool. I can garuntee you that valve is probably disgustingly full of carbon depending on the year.

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