Pressure Reducing Valve
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Specifications
DN15-150
meet the standard of UNI-CIG7430
Outlet pressure: 10 - 500mbar
Pressure Reducing Valve imported from European is used for gas pressure Reducing of combustion system.
Fit for LPG, natural gas, town gas, air and other non-corrosive gases.
Maximum inlet pressure: 1bar or 5bar.
Aluminum alloy shell. NBR diaphragm.
Threaded connections for DN15-50
Flanged connection (PN16) for DN65-DN150.
Outlet pressure: 10 - 500mbar (different range according to specific spring).
Operating temperature: -10°C - +60°C.
Payment:
TT / LC / DP
- Q:i have a 05 kx250f, new valves recently,will pop start, idle runs high, has compresion, new kckstarter gear but it wont kickstart. someone said the valves need to be shimmed.anybody have any ideals? thanks.
- Who okorder /
- Q:I think I have a bad valve steam seals because when I start the car white-grayish smoke comes out of the back of the car. When let sit for 2 or more hours start car and smoke comes out everytime. Will a valve adjusment fix the problem? Thanks
- nope..time to have the head(s) done.....
- Q:I keep the tire pressure in my tires at approx 40 lbs per tire. I have an inexpensive tire gauge that I use to measure the pressure. Recently, one tire seemed low, so I measured the pressure and the batteries were dead in the tire gauge. I replaced them and measured again.It said 20.5! I thought I was going crazy, but then measured all the other tires and they were around 35 to 40. I filled up all the tires to about 40, but when I measured the weird one again, it said only 30!The question is, could there be a problem with the tire valve that is preventing me from getting a good measure of the pressure? I filled up the tire to where it looks really filled up, and I'm afraid to overfill it. I'd like to get it to 40 lbs but I don't know if it's already gt; 40 lbs with a tire valve problem. Or if a tire that's at 20 pounds can look so filled up that you couldn't tell it from a tire that's at 40 pounds?Any info would be appreciated.
- Overinflating your tires beyond what the people who designed, built and exhaustively tested your vehicle recommend because some anonymous nut on a Prius owners forum says to is stupid. Over-inflated tires wear out more quickly which more than cancels out the fraction of a percent of mileage improvement you MIGHT see by doing this. Over-inflated tires also provide less traction thus reducing safety. Over-inflated tires are also more prone to damage from road hazards such as potholes which again could result in having to buy tires prematurely. What you are doing is a false economy. Do what the people who built your car and built your tires (ie: the professionals) recommend and inflate to 35 psi front, 33 psi rear. As for your gauge reading problem, if you are unsure you are getting accurate readings take it to a tire shop for a second opinion by people who do this stuff for a living. They should be able to figure out if you have a problem or not. You can't trust what the tire looks like. A tire can be underinflated by as much as 20 psi and still look OK or grossly overinflated to the point of being dangerous and you wouldn't know by looking at it.
- Q:okay, well, I understand partials. But, on a trumpet, what does each valve do? I mean, I had this idea that each one was a half-step up from the previous...but that's not true. Is there some sort of pattern to them? Does each one have a different purpose?...Please answer as basically as possible. I don't play music very often, and I definitely don't speak brass-ish.
- Trumpet Valve
- Q:Where is the fast idle valve located on the dx or ex model year 89-91??? I found the fast idle on my si model but its different on the base model for some reason.
- base models have no fast idle valve. if the rpm are going up and down inspect the water level in the system and have it bled. there might be air in it. if you are messing with the timing or adjusting the idle you are doing something wrong. do not adjust the throttle cable to adjust the idle. it will throw off the tps sensor. use the idle screw. if adjusting idle at the idle screw or timing don't forget to jump the ECU or you will waste your time. btw you know that the IACV needs to be unplugged when adjusting the idle right? no punn intended just checking.
- Q:Serious answers only please. I have a 1995 Ford F-250 XL 5.8L 351 c.i. engine. My check engine light comes on periodically when I drive. When I bought the truck a year ago the gas mileage wasn't too bad, about 9-10 mpg. I've only put about 3,000 miles on it this past year, and now the needle drops just driving it across town. I work at a Chevy dealership, and I've worked at another Chevy dealer as well as a Ford. I've always done my own work on my cars and am currently restoring a 1967 Mustang, so I have decent knowledge under the hood. I scanned the truck and it has a stored code for EGR valve voltage too high (stuck open). How bad could this be hurting my gas mileage? It's $160 for the valve and sensor even after my discount, and being a college student that's a lotta $ to pay. I'm selling the truck and need it running perfect when I do. Please, serious answers only, and help is greatly appreciated!
- Get out your jumper leads and backprobe the egr solinoid. ok. 1st thing......attempt to kill the motor at idle using the egr solinoid. apply ground to the proper wire(not red) and see if the egr valve operates, killing the motor idle. if it does operate, but doesn't kill the motor......you have some cleaning to do. if it operates, and kills the motor.......the valve and solinoid are ok. (the solinoid should also vent the egr valve vacuum when de-energized) Now.....for the tricky part. AFTERMARKET EVP SENSORS SELDOM READ CORRECTLY. 1. Turn the key on and check the voltages at the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Position (EVP) Sensor. The Brown/White (BN/W) should be 5v, the Grey/Red (GY/R) is ground and must read 0.1v or less at all times. The Brown/Green (BN/GN) is the signal and MUST read 0.40v to 0.45v. If it does not, the vertical position of the sensor must be changed BY ANY MEANS NESSESARY. a NEW valve will sit higher than an old one......but sometimes not. There are things you can try to lengthen the shaft to increase the voltage reading, such as heat shrink tubing. This EVP issue is an annoying one (even for experienced mechanics), but has little effect on gas milage, unless it is TRULY stuck open. If it were stuck open.....the truck would be running very rough at idle or die.
- Q:whaT ARE THE SYMPTON OF A BAD EGR Valve Position Sensor loss of power ?1998 toyota camry v6
- Typically when those sensors start to go bad, the EGR valve doesn't modulate properly between open and closed. When that happens you usually notice a sort of fluttering in the power delivery, often when cruising at a set speed but sometimes also when accelerating as a result of the wrong amount of exhaust gas being recycled back into the engine. You sometimes will notice a loss of power when accelerating as well. If the EGR valve is opening more than necessary it will be allowing more exhaust gas back into the engine than is beneficial....and that will reduce the amount of power the engine produces. If the EGR valve is staying closed more than necessary, you might not notice as many driveability issues but you'll probably notice your average fuel mileage decreasing a little and/or a check-engine light being triggered and/or a failure of an emissions test (even if the check engine light hasn't tripped) if you live somewhere that emissions checks are required.
- Q:I jsut got my valve cover replaced on my car what does that do?
- Usually only the valve cover gasket needs to be replaced (unless you somehow damaged the valve cover itself). It does just what it says. It is the metal(2) located on the top of you engine that covers the valves. It needs to be replaced when the seals are allowing oil to come out.
- Q:what is meant by inherent characteristic for the steam control valve??
- There are different type of valves, (ball, gate, globe, needle, diaphram) each have their own characteristics in how they operate and the effect they have on flow. Inherent characteristic would be an effect that valve has on the fluid flowing through it.(steam can also be considered a fluid ) An example is a globe valve used to throttle a flow does so by adjusting the size of its opening. In essense its a variable orifice. Flow through an orifice results in a pressure drop across that orifice. So, an inherent characteristic of a globe valve is a pressure drop.
- Q:Is there a devise to reverse the flow to a cylinder. Not the pump. But a inline flow deverter that would shift the flow from one side of the cylinder to the other at the end of the stroke automatically without a person interjecting.ie it extends fully then the flow reverses retracting it fully. Then the flow reverses, and it extends fully and so on.Preferably, with as little lag as possible during the transition.I want the pump to run constantly(not reversing) and the cylinder to run constantly. Do not worry about the heat generated.Would love something that ran off the main cylinder(like a secondary piston or valve that would opendivert flow at the end of the stroke) through linkage. But, I am open to electronics if need be. Further more want the return to be metered so that the push and pull forces will be the same(metered through a smaller opening to adjust for the rod).Thankyou
- Electrically operated hydraulic changeover valve would be simplest. Then all you need is switches to operate first 1 solenoid, then the other, reversing flow. These could be as simple as microswitches operating latching relays to control the valve. An accumulator should be fitted to reduce hydraulic shock from a sudden direction change.
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