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FAQ

Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.

The first one appears to have a higher flow rating but neither gives a head figure, which is the maximum height it can work to above the pump. Lift from below a pump is limited to 32ft on any form of water pump; that is the limit water will rise to with a total vacuum above it. A normal pump cannot pull a perfect vacuum so working lift will be somewhat less. The practical limit depends on the pump head in use and it's actual head limit; the total height from the pickup point to the delivery point count as working head. Any kind of centrifugal pump or one which cannot also pump air perfectly will need a foot valve at the base of the inlet pipe and a priming system to fill the pipe and pump body with water before the pump is started. If you expect the water level to be more than 10 - 15ft down, you would be better off with a submersible pump; the only limit then is the head rating which can be just about anything. Get a suitably rated petrol or diesel generator as well (3x the pump power rating) if it must operate independently of mains power.

The water pump is bat on the car I have. I have the part but I need to know if I should have someone install it for me or could I do it myslef. I heard it the timing may be messed up after the pump is in

Get the book review the steps. Find or buy the tools Pop the hood, clean and repair with no warranty. See the possibility of failure, call the local shops asking; how soon, how much, warranty on labour, etc. Weigh the time you have available commit to this repair. Contain the anti-freeze, clean up of repair areas

I have a well water pump and the motor seems to just run but won't transfer water through the line, checked for leakage, etc but no signs. Even tried priming it but it does nothing. Any idea of what could be wrong or how to repair this problem?

. do you have air pressure tank inline of your system ? bet it lost its precharge. Put air gauge on it most are set about 30 psi .. They are usually labeled. For psi

If I were to go to a shop, how much would it cost to replace my water pump? It's a 4.0 6 cyl engine.

$70-$150 +cost of pump. Most shops have certain maintenance hours for certain jobs. Call around for exact pricing. Honestly, if you have a sockets (metric) and wrenches you can do it yourself in about an hour or two, maybe less. You don't have to mechanically inclind to replace the water pump on the 97 Wrangler. If you do it, I do recommend buying a Haynes/Chilton's book if you don't really have a clue. If you need to buy the tools, book, pump (gasket should come with it), water pump RTV, and coolant. That will still be a lot cheaper than paying somebody. Plus, you will get the joy of doing it yourself. Also, you could put the savings into a high-flow pump, vice original equipment.

im thinking about buying a 93 ford taurus for $950. the owner says it will probably need a new water pump and brakes in the near future. is it worth it? i dont know anything about cars!

New brakes are not a huge expense unless the discs need machining. Brakes should be done regularly as a part of on-going preventative maintenance. Water pump is not a big ticket item and is so easy to get at. Make sure you get a new gasket as well. Maybe $200 for brakes unless you know someone mech minded. $70-$80 for water pump plus fitting

i learned from wikipedia that the water pumps back to reactor where it is heated again and the cycle begins again. but then i saw this diagram

I can see why you're a little confused. There are actually 3 separate loops in most reactor designs and you can see this in the diagram. The primary heat transport loop contains the water that touches and cools the fuel and this is the water that is pumped back to the reactor where it is heated again.... It is shown in the diagram in pink. The water from the primary heat transport loop passes into a steam generator which is full of water but the water in these two systems is kept separate to ensure all radioactivity stays in the primary heat transport loop and in the containment building. Basically the pipes from the primary heat transport system pass through a large tank of water and heat the water in the tank causing it to boil. The steam is then passed out of the generator, out of containment, and into the turbine. Next it goes into a heat exchanger which is similar to the steam generator except it is used to cool the water. The cooled water then passes back into containment and into the steam generator to be boiled again. Finally, the third heat transport loop moves cold water from either a lake, ocean, or cooling tower, into the turbine building where it cools the water in the secondary heat transport loop. This water is kept completely separate from the water in the secondary heat transport loop to ensure that if the secondary loop water somehow becomes contaminated, it doesn't pass into the third loop and get into the lake, ocean, or atmosphere. I hope that clears things up :)

was putting a water pump on, and i tight too much on 2 bolts, and they broke. is it anyway to fix it ?? is it going to cost alot in labor ??

Take the water pump back off. If the broken studs stick out of the block enough you can get a vice-grip pliers on them and remove them. If you can't get a hold on them then you will have to drill a small hole in the stud and use an Easy Out to back out the broken stud(s). Be sure to drill exactly in the center and not too big. Drilling off center or too big and you will destroy the threads in the block. THEN you will have to re-tap the threads and use a larger size stud. Likely you will have to modify the water pump to handle the bigger studs. So be careful. If you are not confident you can handle this then take it to a shop. Ava g'day mate. ) And good luck.

replaced water pump and thermostat, flushed, opened bleeder valve had long life red colored original coolant, no visible leaks obstruction, when became hot on highway, accelerated quickly and temp back down to norm, eventually after 3hrs driving o.heated stopped and got towed home, new water pumps fins/pulley not turning as freely as old one, no leak out of inspection hole, hoses good shape.2001 2.2l ohv sunfire, air cond.

get your vehicle up to operating temps and runs your hand along the core of the radiator from top to bottom. If it's cold at the bottom and hot at the top, it's plugged... Also I see where you bleed the system, might wanna check it again... air pockets are stubborn... Last but not least, have a C.O. test performed at a local radiator/automotive shop... This will tell you if you have a blown head gasket