Water Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
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Water Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump
Application
This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.
It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.
Model Description
100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)
Operations Conditions
1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.
Picture
Why choose us
High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material
FAQ
1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on
2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)?
3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
4) Contact us by under business card information
2.OEM: Ok
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts
- Q: Our house is situated on very sandy soil. I suspect that my water pump may be getting clogged with sand and silt and other debris. The water flow from the sinks and showers often stops randomly in the middle of the water running only to turn on maybe 30 seconds later. This seems to happen more and more frequently now where as a year ago and beyond it never occurred. Any suggestions?
- I guess you are on a well system. If that is the case then you for sure have a problem with your pump. Good luck.
- Q: can't get the pulleys to line up I know I have a mid 70's 400 and the water pump is later than 1969 but I can't find a pulley that works every one is about a half inch off I bought a aftermarket set of underdrive pulley's from march performance and still the same problem the water pump is a half inch off there was no long or short water pump right they are all the same lenght right??? The only difference I know of is that pre 1968 the pumps have a 8 bolt design and after they have a 11 bolt design is that right???
- Actually there was two main pumps for the older ones,, one was called a short shaft,,and one was called a long shaft,,the long shaft was the most popular,and it all depends on whether your car had power steering,,and air conditioning on it,,all the ones that used the long shaft usually had air,,and power steering on them also,,also some of them had a smog pump on them,,this was the main reason they used the long shaft,,most of the smog pumps got taken off and discarded down through the years,,but you still had to use the pump that had the long shaft,,this is the problem your having,,i own a repair shop in Tennessee,,and have been redoing some old cars in the past few years i to have run across the same problem you are having,,you can have a long shaft ordered for you ,,and it will work fine,,i had to use the long shaft on the one i was redoing hope this helps some.
- Q: i have a 1993 chevy cavalier z24 3.1 what all do i need to do to get the water pump off and replace it
- I believe if you are looking at the motor the water pump will be to your left on top of the motor and to the front. Drain the radiator. There is a big smooth pulley that turns the water pump loosen the 4 10mm bolts, remove the belt the remove the bolts. Under the pulley there will be 5 or 6 8mm bolts remove those, make sure a drain pan is under the pump because there will be some residual coolant in the motor. Scrape the old gasket off of the engine block then reverse the procedures to install the new pump. Make sure you torque the pump to the proper specs so that the pump housing does not distort. You can pick up a Chiltons manual for that car a local parts store that can walk you through this in greater detail with pictures. Good Luck
- Q: Could someone tell me the procedure for removing & installing a water pump on 97 buick skylark 3.1L 3100 SFI?
- Get the Chilton manual.
- Q: 93 Cutless Sierra FWD
- For a 2.2 4 cylinder read below: Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system. Remove serpentine drive belt, then the alternator and bracket. Remove water pump pulley attaching bolts, then remove the pulley, Fig. 20. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump. Reverse procedure to install. For a 3.3 6 cylinder read below: Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain cooling system, then remove serpentine drive belt. Remove lower radiator hose and heater hose at pump. Remove water pump pulley attaching bolts. Long bolt is removed through access hole located in the body side rail. Remove water pump pulley. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump, Fig. 15. Reverse procedure to install, torquing bolts to specifications Hope this was helpful!
- Q: Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?
- Check heater control valve ( on one of the heater hoses going into the firewall), make sure there is no vacuum leak to it or the heat door. Does air blow on the floor when your heater is on? When you slide or turn the temp selector on your control panel you either move a cable or supply vacuum to a door that shifts air flow from vent to floor, is this happening?
- Q: I just had my water pump replaced and a coolant flush. 35 miles later, my MAL light came on and my mechanic said my thermostat needs replacement. Should this have been done with the water pump work, or could the work have caused the thermostat problem?
- My philosophy on thermostats is if I don't have a reason to suspect trouble with it I don't change it. Thermostats don't have any particular life expectancy - the one in my daughter's Accord is 18 years old and works better than new aftermarket thermostats I have tried. I haven't replaced a thermostat in about 15 years. They are often blamed but (until recently, with the introduction of fail open thermostats) rarely at fault. EDIT - I also agree with BR549, although for a different reason. Professionals have to work somewhat differently than DIYers because of where the costs fall. I would rebuild a starter and it would be a lot better than a store-bought rebuilt, but a pro would be taking on unnecessary risks if he didn't replace the starter. His perspective splits the question in two: should the thermostat be replaced during coolant service, and should a professional mechanic replace the thermostat during coolant service? I answer no to the first and yes to the second. The replacement may actually be a step down from the one we know works, but it is also the safer way for a pro to go.
- Q: water pump pulley has slight wobble in it. not seeing water yet....is bearing going bad
- Could be several things. The pulley is not on straight. The pulley itself is not truly flat when made but still within tolerances allowed by manufacturer. .Has nothing to do with the bushing(bearing) They generally wear out over time and start leaking coolant out.
- Q: 4--6 inch deep well pump head? How much per hour out of water?.
- Best answerLift pump is the location of the outlet is high, such as wells 5 meters deep, you put the pumping pipe on the bottom, the pump is placed in the vicinity of well, then, the head is 5 meters, the water power how much you buy depends on the pump, the greater the power, the faster the water pumping. The greater the party...
- Q: I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
- it should,nt be water, it should be anti-freeze if it was leaking. if you meant anti-freeze the it don,t have to be the pump. it cold be a busted radiator hose, the radiator or 1 of the heater hoses leaking.
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Water Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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