Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
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Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump
My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.
Application
This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.
It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.
Model Description
100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)
Operations Conditions
1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.
Picture
Why choose us
High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material
FAQ
1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on
2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)?
3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
4) Contact us by under business card information
2.OEM: Ok
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts
- Q: what water pump is on a 1978 mercruiser 170hp 224cc 3.7 liter
- Something in your description doesn't add up. Mercruiser did not have a motor branded as 170 hp in 1978, only 85-86. The 224s where a Mercury invention, all about the same for around 15 years. Do you you have a ser #, much more accurate identification.
- Q: What are some good brands of aquarium water pumps? I have had bad experiances with Hydor Seltz (cheapest ones I could find, ugg, I know, you get what you pay for) pumps, failing very quickly, and sounding like plastic gears grinding around inside. What is the best kind to get?I need one that's around 150gph
- i have a topfin that works well for me.
- Q: yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry
- You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.
- Q: i have a 1960 ford f100 and i was wondering if its better to have an electric water pump or mechanical. ive heard mechanical is worse because at low rpms it doesnt put as much water into the motor but i wasnt sure how true that was. What was is better so that my truck doesnt overheat? and how much better is one over the other if electric will just be a little better is it even worth using? also will i need to change anything on my motor to be able to put an electric water pump on it or will it just bolt on like the mechanical one does
- Well your mechanical water pump is more than sufficient to pump water through your engine even at low rpms. Whether you have a electric or mechanical your can't pump more water though your engine than what your thermostat will allow you to. The advantage that i can see over electric would be the extra horse power you might get over having your mechanical
- Q: Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?
- It is the belt slipping on the pully before the material warms up from friction to make it grip better. The squeeling sound is the pully and the belt slipping as the motor is warming up. It is nothing to be concerned about and it is definately NOT your water pump. If the sound bothers you, as it would me, then goto your local auto parts store and buy a cheap can of belt stop slip. It costs less then five bucks and it is a sticky substance like stickum or sapp in a spray can that will help your belt to better grip the pullies and it will stop your problem. What you want to do is this, wait until your car is cold and have someone start the car while you are standing over the motor ready to spray the can onto the belt. You will instantly hear the noise quit as soon as you squirt the can onto the moving belt. Once the engine starts and the belt is moving, just hold the spray down for 3 seconds and it will coat the underside of the belt and your problems will be over. You might want to try to spray an area that will allow the spray to coat the underside of the belt, i.e. the part that comes in contact with the pully. You only want to spray the belt while the engine is running and the belt is moving. That way your 3 second squirt will coat the entire underside of the belt as it moves under the spray can. Kinda like oiling a bicycle chain while moving the pedals and spinning the chain while holding the can in one place as opposed to oiling the chain while the chain is stationary and trying to cover the whole chain. It is impossible to reach all the places becuase some will be hidden behind other parts. That is why you want your motor running while you squirt the belt with the can of sticky belt stop squeel. It will stop squeeling immediately as soon as you spray it on the moving belt. The guy at Pep Boys or Advanced auto parts should know what you want.
- Q: I brought my car to a shop because I get no heat. The mechanic diagnosed my car as having a blown gasket head because there were hydrocarbons in my coolant. The repair cost was too high, so a I figured I'd just run the car until it broke on me. A month later I see it overheating on the way to work and a month after that it completely powers down (electrically) while I'm driving and I see a lot of white smoke (coolant was all over the engine). After it's had time to cool down I can start it up just fine. I pour coolant in and it comes right back out the bottom of the water pump.Could a bad water pump have been the reason for the hydrocarbons and no heat in the first place? Could it have caused the appearance of hydrocarbons in my coolant? If the head gasket is blown and this is just a symptom, is it cost effective to replace the water pump or will it just break on me again in a short time?
- I am reminded of a monkey playing with a revolver.... Buy a bicycle. Make sure it does not have any kind of cooling system. Never post here again.
- Q: Engine problem 1999 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 165000 miles ---------------------------------------------------------------- I have a leaking water pump that has to be replaced. I am calling around getting prices and some people tell me that I have to do the timing chain at the same time and that will be a great deal more money. Can I just replace the water pump? It seems that the water pump only will be about 200.00 but both could be 500.00. Please help
- You can replace the water pump and not do the timing chain. Timing chains are not designed to need replacing. If it is a belt then changing the water pump is halfway to changing the belt, so I would go ahead and do that because 165000 is a lot of miles on a belt that was probably changed at 60 to 75,000 miles. And it should not be $500.00 if the water pump was only $200.
- Q: I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why? Problems started when our car overheated due to neglecting to refill the coolant a while back. The coolant tank got cracks in it and we had to replace it- but now the water pump is leaking, says my husband- should we just replace the water pump or could this be a bigger problem? Why is it leaking all of a sudden now? (please no snarky rude answers , I'm looking for help not to be scolded! Yes we neglected to add more coolant-- damage is already done so don't bother making a ridiculous comment about it!)Thanks!
- A leaky pump usually means that it has gone bad. Water pumps are not designed to last forever. If your water pump is leaking after it has been on your car for a while replace it weather it is causing your car to run hot or not. Not replacing it will only lead to more costly problems because it will only continue to get worse over time. It might be a good idea to have your engine pressure tested to insure that you haven't caused any major engine damage from overheating while only replacing your water pump will seal the pressure in the system and showing any major defects such as a blown head gasket. You should also preform a check of your other coolant system components such as your fan(s), thermostat, hoses, radiator, heater valve, belts, and recheck the reservoir. Good luck.
- Q: I would like to make a simple electric pump that can pump water. I would like to know how it works. I would be most thankful if you can provide me a link of an animated video on how motor works.
- I am not 100% sure but i think the motor turns turbine blades which move/pump the water
- Q: 94 f150,302 engine. the water pump comes with 2 gaskets. one behind a metal plate on the pump and another for mounting it to the motor. my question is do you have to use sealant of any kind on both gaskets or can you just bolt it on?
- use sealant you dont need a ton but enough to hold the gaskets in place
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Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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