• Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 1
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 2
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 3
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 4
Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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 Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 



Q: What is a fair price to have a water pump with belts replaced on a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer?
Price okorder , Water-pumps and serpentine belts are very easy to change in all rear wheel drive cars
Q: If there were no water at the discharge of a pump and then you had just fed water through and measured the pressure of the gauge...would that be a different pressure if the whole system (both inlet and outlet) were continuously filled with water?
1.If there is no water at the discharge of the pump then there can be no pressure. 2. If there is water at the discharge of the pump, but the pump is not running, then there will be a pressure in the system. 3. If the pump is running, the pressure in the system will be higher than at 2.) above becuse it takes additional pressure to move the water through the piping. The flowing water requires additional pressure to get thru the piping system.
Q: there is a knocking noise coming from the water pump pulley..i think, the pulley also wiggles when its running. If that's what is wrong, how long do i have to fix it and is it hard and expensive to fix?
No it isn't hard to fix, first loosen the little bolts on the water pump pulley, then take the belt off, then unbolt the water pump and take pulley off old pump, clean off old seal from block, put on new seal, you may have to use gasket maker or silicone, install new pump, and bolt pulley on to new pump, then reinstall belt. Oh I forgot you will have to drain the antifreeze before you start, and refill it after you are done! Start the car and let it warm up and look for leaks, if you see a leak you didn't get it sealed properly and will have to repeat the sealing process and antifreeze. Takes an hour or so to do!
Q: water pump and thermostat were replaced 18 months ago motors done about 20 hrs since replacement have checked and there are no blockagers in water tube what could be the problem thanks
well, if the water pump isn't pumping water, then the water pump is faulty. only way to know what's wrong with it is to open it up and look at it. one thing you might not be aware of, is that a few seconds of dry running is all it takes to damage the impeller, so if you've been in the habit of starting your motor without supplying water to the lower unit, then that's what happened. Another thing is, the pump sucks in sand and silt, those take a toll on the water pump; the more you run shallow water, the more damage is done.
Q: Car is ford taurus 98.The car had some problems including overheating as thermostat was bad so was was not working. i drove it 25 miles to garage (i had to stop once because too hot to let it cool), i brought it to Ford who replaced the thermostat. Now they tell me some bits of thermostat broke and they need to replace the waterpump and want $620 for it. The other repair were also extremely expensive and i want to bring it to another garage 1.3 miles away on flat road.-1- is it safe to drive 1.3 mile with no water pump or should iget it towed?-2- should i have to pay for the water pump or is it ford's fault if they did not remove the bits of broken thermostat before reconnecting new thermostat to hose ? Can i prove that the pump was working when i came in if i drove 25 miles with it ?Thanks for your help.
Ford people are boneheads for making you pay for something THEY broke. And what does the thermostat breaking have to do with the water pump? All they want to do is suck you in for every penny. All services are warrantied for X months/X miles. If they broke it, they are responsible for it. As for driving 1.3 miles without a coolant, I would not reccomend it unless you wanna cook eggs on your engine. Seriously though, You'll do more damage to the engine running without a coolant. Then you'll need new pistons, fry the oil in the engine and probably need a whole new engine. Have it towed, it's cheaper in the long run. Don't take it to Ford ever again. They're sufering and in the red, they need to make money some way, screwing people is the way to go.
Q: does anyone know the proper way to take the lower gearcase off and install a new water pump kit. it is a 1986.
This is a simple repair but I'd recommend that you get a service manual, ether a factory manual or one of the generic Seloc manuals. The key things to do are mark the trim tab so you can put it back in the same position after repairs. Drain the oil. Removing the bolt that is in the hole at the back end of the upper housing, as well as all the obvious Nuts. both above and under the cavitation plate. Put the drive in forward gear, which takes the tension off the shift shaft. Once all the nuts and bolt are loose. Jiggle the drive and it will separate from the upper housing. You now have access to the water pump housing. Remove the housing and pull it up and off the d. Shaft. Inspect fully and account for missing impeller blades. When you re assemble Lube the impeller and put the drive key in place and put the impeller in place. Slide the housing down to the impeller. You can use ether th drive shaft or the propeller to turn the drive shaft in a clockwise direction as you apply pressure on the housing, It should slide down over the impeller. Reassemble in reverse order. Slide the drive shaft up into the upper housing turning the D. shaft using the prop to turn the shaft. Watch the water tube slip into the guide tube. Once it's in place put a couple nuts on then check the gear shift to make sure it goes F-N-R. Bolt up and fill with oil. Good Luck!
Q: So I have a 2.4L chrysler cirrus. The water pump appears to be not working(pumping the fluid through) and the car over heats. They location is on the side since its a front wheel drive car. I have both a Chilton and Haynes manual and they both say i need to loosen the front engine mount and lower it. Thats about it really..Now i was wonder couldnt that mess up something. I dont plan on doing this myself but i would like to know how. Is it possible for the engine to fall out? Might sound stupid but im not sure how all that will work so i would like to know. Thanks -Joe
There is some room to move an engine/trans slightly to get to parts or perform maint. The actual movement is probably not that drastic, but most have the proper equipment to handle this. I wouldn't worry about it as long as it is being done by someone with experience.
Q: We use this water pump for about 2 years, and in the last week the circuit breaker trip when we turn on the pump. What should I check first for the problem?
It seems that your breaker has tendency become weak, first I would replace the breaker with a new one of the same amperage. You may have a filter on the supply pipe and if clogged it will draw more.
Q: I have a 1978 El Camino V8 305. My power steering has been going out on me, and since then my belt has been squeaking usually when it first starts up. This morning when I got to work, smoke was bellowing from under my hood. Im trying to troubleshoot. Is it possible that my power steering pump damaged the belt enough that the water pump went out?
If the power steering pump was dragging, you probably lost the belt, so the water pump was not working and the engine overheated. Water pump is probably OK. Replace the belt and fix or replace the power steering pump.
Q: As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price
Yes, I have done at least 100 of these water pumps. You are correct, remove the timing belt, cam gears and rear cover is the easiest route. I have done them without removing the rear metal shield all the way, and only removing the front cam gear as well. You can remove the front cam gear, and all 6 bolts to the rear shield and shift the cover enough to get the pump out from behind the cover. You shouldn't need to remove the water pump studs, but if you do get a set of stud removers. I bought a set from snap on for around $50 or so years ago. Sears also sells a set. You don't need a cam locking tool. You can make one out of a bar with two bolts through it to stop cam from rotating while you loosen the 17mm nut on the cam gear. I usually just use an impact gun on the bolt, and no tool is needed to hold it. Remember, the 1MZ-FE engine is an interference engine, and the timing belt must be aligned perfectly or the pistons WILL hit valves and engine will self destruct. If you are near ILlinois I can help with repairs if needed.

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