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FAQ

im installing an amp and i have no clue what to do with thw power wire.... I read to cut open my steros power wire (usually the blue) and wrap my power wire around it... I found the blue wire but there was a tag... Caution Remote output only... This is not the wire for power supply. please connect this wire to the remote for the amplifier... Does this mean i just connect this wire directly to my amp?

ok wait hold up. so the only wire that should be hooked from the amp to the headunit is your speaker wires, remote turn on wire, and your rca cables. ....What you need to do is get the power cable(usually red) run it from positive on the battery to the POS on your amp. next put your ground wire from the GND on the amp to bare metal on your cars chasis.

I have a 1997 saturn sc2. In the trunk of my car there was a wire dangling down from the top when i bought it. Asked seller and he didnt know. It is not the trunk light wire or has to do with any of the tailights,blinkers,brake lights. It looks like a factory wire. It has a bunch of holes in the connector.

what color is the wire? i ask because i have a wiring diagram.

what if I use a 100 amps.main braker to wire my range and dryer

Whoa there! What you're describing is a 120 volt outlet (U.S. Canada). Every dryer I know of operates from 220 volts. For a three-prong, 220 volt plug, you should connect the black to one of the hot terminals and the red wire to the other hot terminal. The white wire, which is neutral, would go to the common terminal. The outlet box you describe is a 120 volt box. . .it just won't work! If you're operating a 220 volt dryer from 120 volts, you're asking for trouble. Besides, for a 120 volt outlet, you've got the connections all skewed. Here it is as looking at the outlet from the front: Black (hot) to small blade (brass screw), White (neutral) to large blade (silver screw), Copper (ground) to green grounding screw. You may have to run a 220 volt line from the dryer to a new breaker in your electrical service panel. I strongly suggest you leave this to a licensed, qualified electrician.

A wire is 1.5 m long and has a diameter of 1.5 mm. The stretch modulus of the wire is 6.2 x 10^10 N/m^2. If a force of 400 N is applied to end of the wire then the increase in length of the wire is???please help, thanks

The stretching of wire by longitudinal force: If F force applied across the crosectional area A of wire of radius r and lenght L then the wire elaogates in the dirextion of force Stress P = F / A A = pi* r^2 = (1.5/2)*10^-3 = 7.5 *10^-4 m^2 strain produced = dL / L = increase in length / original L Young's modulus or elastic (stretch) modulus for the maretial, within elastic limits, Y = stress/strain strain = stress / Y dL = F * L / A * Y = F * L / pi (r^2) * Y dL = 400* 1.5 / 3.14 (7.5 *10^-4)^2 * 6.2*10^10) meter dL = 0.005479 * meter dL = 5.479 millimeters increase in length

i got a fi bl 15dual 2 subwoofer. im wiring it down to 1 ohm.now for the problem. lets say im wiring the positive terminals together. am i suppose to wire it all with positive wire or can i also use negative copper wire? i used two positive wires and one negative wire to hook up the three positive terminals. is this bad? do i need to make all of them positive silver wires?

ok well either red or + is positive and black or - is negitive, the problem i have is you said you had 3 positives and one negitive on a dual coil sub,?? if you mean you ran all 3 wires to your amp then its wrong, if you mean you ran 1 wire to your positive,1 wire to your negative, and 1 wire from the other positive and negative together, then you have gone up to 4ohm and not down to 1, you should have 2 positives and 2 negatives, hooked together to make 1 positive and 1 negative as for the wire colors, they sometimes differ so you can tell them apart, providing your the one who screwed them to the amp, i run mine copper positive and silver negative, but each to there own.

I am installing a GFCI outlet in the kitchen (20 AMP) the box that it is already installed in has more than nine wires running into it. What I need to know is how does one determine the load wires from line wires when there are multiple wires running to an outlet box?

Nine wires or nine cables? Nine wires is possible if there was a three-way switch in that box previously, or multiple outlets. Need to know what was in the box before. Pictures would also help.

So I know that the neutral wire is the 'return wire'. But why does my textbook say that it has the potential to have the same amount of electricity as the live wire (if the wiring is faulty)? But essentially, if the wiring is not faulty it is technically safe to touch it, it has 0 volts.Could someone explain this to me?

In the absence of faults, the neutral should be safe. It is normally connected to ground at the supply entry board or at the substation/transformer. In the event that a neutral wire becomes disconnected between an appliance and the supply entry board, it will be at the same potential as the live wire.

the sensor part has 4 wires,(2 white,1 black and 1 red)each light has 1bl.and 1white

If all else fails read the directions! Please read the directions that came with the motion sensor/outdoor light. They should have a color code in them somewhere that tells you what each color is and what it should be wired too. If you have any doubts hire a licensed qualified electrician to do it for you. You would be much better off if you don't think you are capable of doing it. If you do think you are capable make sure you turn off the breaker in the breaker box. (Not the light switch on the wall)