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I have a 2008 Subaru Impreza 2.5i that occasionally would have the ABS light illuminate after braking. The problem is occurring more and more often. When the ABS light is on, none of the rear brake lights work while applying the brake. If the ABS light comes on right after starting the car, I cannot shift out of park without repeatedly stepping on the brake or restarting the car. The ABS light is always on with the the ETC-Off light (never ABS light alone)Cruise control can‘t be used during these occurrences.
Have you checked all your fuses? I would start there before buying any parts.
I got a new stereo head for my 1999 Ford Contour Sport on my birthday. Since it‘s been installed, I can only get any kind of electrical power when I turn my lights on and the dimmer knob is up all the way. My lights inside don‘t turn on unless my headlights are on and neither does my sound system. I also cannot use my remote lock on my keys unless my headlights are on. I figure it‘s a wiring problem that may have something to do with the stereo head. Any ideas or suggestions as to how to fix it?
Sounds like the stereo was wired incorrectly. I'm not an expert in auto wiring but I have installed my own stereo before and know that they are supposed to be wired a certain way so the power isn't on when the ignition is off etc. I'm not sure why your lights are affecting everything. The only think I can think is whoever wired it up used the wrong wires.
I own a Springfield 1911 A-1 and I would like to get a rail system to attach a flashlight. Are there rail systems available which require little or no machining? If so what are the best rail systems available?
Thats a tough question. Both are excellent guns Springfield Armory's Mil-Spec 1911A1 semiautos are, just as the name implies, made to emulate the original military 1911 .45 ACPs that have been part of the fighting handgun scene for 90 years. These are not accurized pistols with adjustable sights or any other bells and whistles. Springfield Armory says of their military style 1911s: Springfield's Mil-Spec pistol is a faithful recreation of John Browning's classic 1911-A1. If you're looking for traditional features and quality in a no-nonsense package, the Parkerized Mil-Spec is for you. I just purchased my first RIA 45. Paid 340.00 out the door, and I've got to say this was a great deal. I have 7 1911 style 45's, Kimbers, Colts, And SW's. I was very surprised at the quality and and how well this thing shoots. 250 rounds not a single problem. its an awesome gun!
I have a 2004 Honda Accord LX 2 Dr. it has cruise control *the guy at the auto parts store asked, so I thought that might matter* and it is a 4 cyl. I am getting ready to sell it, the guy buying it wanted to take it to a mechanic to have it looked over, I agreed. At the end of the inspection, the mechanic said that everything was great except my brake lights didn‘t work. All the brake lights are out. I assumed it was the fuse, as did my BF.but after checking I don‘t see a brake light fuse. I really don‘t want to have to go through each fuse. My brother is mechanically inclined, and said it seems more likely to be the brake light switch as he checked the fuses he thought it was. So what does everyone else think? Ask for any additional information you need. Thanks a lot!
This Site Might Help You. RE: 2004 Honda Accord, brake lights not working, could it be the stop light switch? I have a 2004 Honda Accord LX 2 Dr. it has cruise control *the guy at the auto parts store asked, so I thought that might matter* and it is a 4 cyl. I am getting ready to sell it, the guy buying it wanted to take it to a mechanic to have it looked over, I agreed. At the end of the inspection,.
the lights come on that says it in 4wheel but only the back 2 spinim thinkin its my transfercase but hopin its not.
Is that the lever-activated, or switch controlled transfer case? there are a couple of steps, here. this first step goes for either system, here. 1) Have someone YOU TRUST engage the 4x, get on the ground and watch for the front drive shaft to spin. If it is, then your hubs are not engaging. Common even with manual locking hubs. They go bad or get broken. Drive shaft not spinning, and you have the switch activated system; Your shift motor may be bad. the switch may be bad. Had a problem in a Bronco 2 with the shift motor not disengaging the 4x.
97 ford ranger, passed smog recently,slightly overdue for oil change but no noises/changes in the way it drives recently.check engine comes on a few days ago, I immediately borrow the OBDII reader from Autozone 15 miles away (had to call 4 before I found one that still lends one out for free w/deposit, BTW), it comes back with P1443 code, which Autozone says means about 8 different things. check engine light goes off after OBDII read even though I didn‘t press the button to remove the code from computer via reader. CE comes on again about 50 miles later, turns off again awhile laterwhat‘s the deal? according to multiple internet posts P1443 indicates an emissions control problem,usually the solenoidthere is some rust to the emissions system running the length of the truck but Meineike said recently it‘s superficial and fine for now. In any case, if the CE light doesn‘t keep coming on, should I worry about it? or pay to have someone take a closer look now?
There are literally thousands of things that can cause a check engine light to come on. It could be anything from an EVAP leak to a transmission problem. Most repair facilities will check that at no charge. Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone have generic diagnostic trouble code scanners that will pull codes and can point you in the right direction. It is my understanding that they also provide this service at no charge but you may want to call your local store to confirm that.
had dead batt now it‘s gone crazy when i went to jump start it the alarm went bannanas but hear the problem bought the truck used and had no idea it ean had an alarm to get it to stop the noise i cut the horn/siren now the blue light flashes all the time never flashed b 4 and its makeing a quite clicking noise like every 30 seconds .so with no remote what would you do btw its a 1999 burban
is it an after market alarm or is it factory fitted to the car? If it is factory fitted you should be able to get a remote from the manufacturer, if not, your gonna have to remove the alarm system. can be tricky because there are heaps of wires hooked up to the control module.
THE LIGHT BULBS ARE INTACT AND LOOKING GOOD. THE FUSES ARE GOOD. THE CONNECTIONS ARE GOOD. DID I MISS SOMETHING? IS THIS A TYPICAL LIGHT MALFUNCTION THAT CAN EASILY BE FIXED? WILL YOU TELL ME HOW TO FIX IT?
extremely tough step. check out into bing and yahoo. it can help!