• WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 1
  • WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 2
  • WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 3
WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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1)  Product outline
WQ series submersible sewage pump absorbs the advantages with the same products made abroad and at home, holds a comprehensive optimized design on its hydraulic model, mechanical structure,sealing, cooling, protection, control etc. points, features a good performance in discharging solids and in the prevention of fiber wrapping, high efficiency and energy-saving, strong reliability and, equipped with a specially developed electric control cabinet, not only the auto-control can be realized but also the motor can be made sure to work safely and reliably.Available with various types of installation to simplify the pump station and save the investment.
WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for the municipal works, buildings, industrial sewage and sewage treatment to discharge the sewage, waste water and rainwater containing solids and long fibers.
2)  Characteristic and advantage
1. Most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture below 400 come as a bi-runner impeller and few of them is a multi-blade centrifugal impeller. While most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture 400 and above come as a mixed flow impeller and few of them is a bi-runner impeller. The spacious pump casing runner lets the solids easily passing and the fibers uneasily wrapping so that it is most suitable for discharging sewage and dirt.
2. Two independent single end-face mechanical seals are in-series mounted, with the installation mode as the internal installation mode, and, compared with the external installation mode, the medium is more uneasy to leak and also its sealing friction pair are easier lubricated by the oil in the oil chamber. A special spiral slot or a small seam is used to resist the solid
grains to be deposited on the mechanical seal by the pump to make sure of its stable work. The unique mechanical seal layout mode and bearing combination makes the suspension arm of the shaft short, a heavy rigidity and a small jump, more benefit for reducing the leak from the mechanical seal and extending the life of it.
3. The motor of a protective grade IPX8 works in submerged mode and holds the best cooling effect. The grade F insulation makes the winding bearable to a higher temperature and, compared with common motors, more durable.
4. The perfect combination of the special electric control cabinet, the liquid level floating-ball switch and the protective components carries out the automatic monitor and alarm for
water leak and winding overheat, the protections at shortcircuit, overload, lack-of-phase and voltage-lost cut-off, the accurately auto-controls of start, stop, alternation and minimum
submerged depth of the pump, without need of special persons for looking-after, option at will is available between the selfcoupled reducing start and electronic soft start. All of these
makes sure of safe and reliable use of the pump without any worry.
5. Both motor and hydraulic parts are directly linked together, without need of turning the shaft for centering, easily disassembled and assembled to save the time, benefit for the
site maintenance, reducing the stopped time, saving the cost of repair; simple and compact structure leaves a small volume, only simple lifting equipment is needed, as a special lifting
handler is set on the pump; less land area and the pump can be placed directly in the sewage pond, without need of a special pump house, and the therefore the construction investment
can be saved by over 40.
6. Available with five installation modes for you to choose: auto-coupled, movable hard-pipe, movable soft-pipe, fixed wet type and fixed dry type installation modes.The auto-coupled installation means the connection between the pump and the water-out pipeline is made with the water outlet pipe seat of the auto-coupling, without use of the common fasteners, and, when to separate the pump from the water outlet pipe seat, just place it down along with the guide rod and then lift it, simply enough to get free from worry and trouble and save time.
The submersible sewage pump in the fixed dry type installation not only can replace the old vertical sewage pump but also does not fear of flood submersion, so there is no need of a separate flood-proof facility, benefit for lowering the cost of construction.


3) FAQ

1.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps




Q:I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!
A water pump is mostly pretty obvious when it is going/gone it chirps it squeaks and your temperature will usually be higher than it usually was [not always]. As for a timing belt... they are relatively inexpensive, the labor isnt that bad since the car is VERY easy to work on, and it is difficult to tell when one is needed since the most it will make is a whining noise when its getting weaker, only sometimes though. This is hard to hear too. Best advice I have is to just get a couple appraisals/estimates, or have a friend who is mechanically savvy take a look to see if he/she can tell if the belt is worn to the point where it needs replacing. I had a timing belt done for $120 parts and labor on a 91 accord (same car)
Q:Weap seal is starting to leak and getting some noise from the water pump. These cars are not as easy as a 1969 Camaro to change the water pump. Can you please give me some guidance? Thx in advance.
is replacing the water pump on a 2000 the same as a 2001 chrystler 300 m
Q:We are leasing land from a friend to put horses on. We're in the process of building a barn. We don't want to run water out there because its too much trouble for the meter and everything, but someone said to get a water pump and pump the water from the pond and filter it and use it. I have no idea what all we need or what kind of pump to get. Helpp!
There are many choices and lots of problems. You probably can use a small system with garden hose even depending on how much water you need. There are a lot of variables to define. How much water ie gallons per day? How far do you have to pump it? Is it uphill or downhill? What quality is the pond water? Filtering is a little harder but you should find in line systems or something on the web once you determine the flow rate etc. That may determine the rate you can pump at ie the filter capacity. Do you have electric? If not you need a gas setup pump or generator. What kind of storage tank are you going to pump water into? Sounds like your filter will be the big thing. If you pump 100 gal thats about two bathtubs full. If you pump that in 100 minutes that is 1 gallon per minute. Thats small. So if you can find a filter to do say 1 to 10 gpm and that type pump you can do two bathtubs or more in two hours or so. If you go to 10 gpm thats about the max for a garden hose. Thats more what you would want to spray from the system. Your filter is the key. How clean is the water? Then you need a pump for the flow rate and pressure that can go through the filter. City meter sounds easier now doesnt it?
Q:I was looking at a water pump and the specs said 110 Foot Max. Total Head and 20 Foot Max. Suction Lift. Can someone please explain this? Thanks.
I have two ponds, one that is always full and one that is always low. They are 550 ft apart and there is a change in upward elevation of about 35ft. What pump is needed to allow me to transfer water from the lower pond to the upper pond?
Q:How can we calculate the maximum pump pressure for chilled water system for a 20 story building
20 storey's, let's say 200 feet. 200 x 0.433 = 86.6 psi. at ground level and about 0psi at the top. The pump, in order to deliver water to the top would need a pressure in excess of 87 psi but, the volume of pumped water would need to be high enough to cope with a number of people using it at the same time as this will starve the upper storeys if insufficient. Generally, a tall building will have booster pump stations on other floors up the building to ensure adequate supply.
Q:Pump adapter joint net outside tube, what is the principle?
At once the room after the fire, the internal fire pool once water shortage, the water tank can be within the fire truck hit the water chamber through the pump adapter connected to the fire extinguishing effect.
Q:how can i put in a water pump for a1994 bonniville sse?
Simple. Open the trunk. Put the water pump inside. Close the trunk. Drive the car (or have it towed) to your local mechanic and ask him to install it for you. ;^)
Q:antifreeze leaking from the water pump. antifreeze wont stay in car, car overheating. 96 chevy cavalier. 2.4
Once the water pump starts leaking, you can never be sure just how fast it will deteriorate further. But sometimes, they go from a little leak to a big leak real fast. So I would get it to the shop ASAP. Bring a couple of jugs of water with you in the car if you can get along by stopping every 15 minutes and refilling the radiator after it cools down. But if it starts dumping coolant out like Niagara Falls under the car, you will have to have it towed to the shop.
Q:Ok i was wondering which is the from hose off of the motor the bottom or top since i thinl my heater core hose are reversed and i only get nuke warm air and not hot and yes ive got a brand new heater core, new anti freese, new thermostat and gaskets and all hoses are clear and not rust in the system
I think the info you are looking for is which heater hose supplies the heater core and which hose returns the water to the system. The heater core has two connections, the bottom is usually water in, the top water out. Generally the hose from the top of the engine supplies the heater core and the hose going to the water pump is returning back to the system. Having cleared that up, it doesn't really matter, even if the hoses are reversed, coolant will flow through the heater core regardless, unless there is a control built into one of the heater hoses that actually cuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core. Some trucks have them some don't. If yours does, check that it is working properly or remove it altogether. Now let's examine the possible source of your problem. I would look at either the heater control in the cab or the heater box itself. In the early 70's GM started using pneumatics, and vacuum operated components for their environmental controls. Vacuum operated doors opened and closed to allow airflow to different parts of the system, A/C, defroster, vents, heat, etc. A vacuum leak, a kinked hose, a bad control will cause the doors to stay closed, giving the illusion that there is no heat. By the same token, the wrong door stuck open could allow excessive outside air to mix with the heated air effectively cooling it off, but that is not likely. Check the main control in the cab, and the vacuum actuators and hoses. If by some chance yours still has the steel cables, make sure they are well lubricated, connected, and functioning.
Q:What does the temperature range of the pump mean?
The range of temperature is less than 135 degrees Celsius, which means that the range of use shall not exceed 135 degrees celsius. Refers to the temperature of hot water, high pressure steam boiler inside the water temperature is more than 100 degrees Celsius, your pump is a high-pressure high temperature water pump, generally used for steam boiler or high temperature waterway system. For reference only.

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