• WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps System 1
  • WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps System 2
  • WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps System 3
WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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1. Product Introduction 

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance 

1). Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

2)  Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

3)  Head: 5~60m

4)  Power: 1.5~315kw

5)  Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition 

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.


4. Structure Characteristic of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions. 


5. FAQ

1) How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2) Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3) Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.


 

WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps



Q:I recently bought a 01 firebird trans am. was doing some maintenance on it. basic stuff, tune up, serpentine belt, break flush, and a coolant flush. I didn't notice any leakage in the car, and neither did any mechanics before. Last week when i did all these basic maintenance i went back to check up on one more thing. The mechanic raised my car up and asked when I'm replacing my water pump.Seeing that it was leaking...but the liquid wasn't green, more or less brown and it didn't have any particular smell, but its not coming from the oil pan. What I'm thinking is that maybe the hoses were completely tightened? All help would be appreciated! thank you!
you can try to see if the pump is working before you start after it has been sitting ...make sure it is NOT HOT take the radiator cap off start the car and let it run when it warms up the water will start to circulate through the radiator you can see it with the cap off if the is then the pump is working ... check hoses again to make sure they are tight keep an I on your gauge if it starts to get hot it might be the pump or the thermostat itself if in doubt take it another mechanic and get a second opinion
Q:My '95 Ford Ranger has had the sound of a bearing going bad in a pulley for about two months. Finally this weekend I started it up and it must have locked up, the belt was squealing really loud and snapped. So, now the water pump pulley has rubber chunks on it, which would make me think that is the bad pulley. But the pulley spins perfectly, really smooth. The alternator pulley on the other hand does not spin perfectly. It is not really hard to spin, but it does not spin smoothly. And the alternator pulley is real clean, no rubber on it at all. Any thoughts? I was thinking of buying a cheap belt and putting it on there, have someone start the truck and watch under the hood to see which is bad.
not a good idea, find the bad part first, could be < idler pulley, tension, power steering pulley, air conditioner compressor pulley ( if it has air ) , alternator besides that, there ain't any CHEAP belts that i know of
Q:I have a 2001 chevy malibu and need to know how to check if the water pump needs replaced. The engine has been running much hotter than normal and is leaking coolant.
Remove the belt and try to turn it by hand. If it makes a growling noise or you can feel roughness in the bearing, then you should replace the pump. Also, look for any leaks anywhere around the water pump that would suggest it needs replacement. If there's no roughness or leaks at the pump, look elsewhere for a leak. Also check your radiator cap to make sure it's holding the proper pressure. Also check your thermostat to make sure it isn't starting to fail. Check to make sure your radiator fans come on too.
Q:Is pumping water, the new pump is also this problem, the pump is also working, that is, no water, at night I opened, in the installation of water, second days also make it to noon is not so good
This fully automatic self-priming pump, if there is no water, there are 4,A. The air in the pump cavity is exhausted. The solution is to unscrew the copper screw on the pump body,Two. Water pipe leakage solution, check the joints and piping to ensure reliable sealingThree. At the end of the valve or three does not open or there is a serious blockage, solutions to check the bottom valve goods three psychic activity,Four. Leakage of seal in pump, adjust or replace the sealWhat's more, you feel that there is a leak in your water inlet. Check the three pass on the water inlet of the water pump. Think of this fully automatic pump. The switch for your tap water can be kept open all the time
Q:it's not doing anything. about a month ago, i changed the pressure switch because it the water just suddenly stopped (like now), and after changing it, it worked again. I did noticed that after changing the pressure switch, it was tripping a lot (the pressure switch). when the water pump stopped again (this time), i went a bought another pressure switch thinking that it was the same problem, but this time it didn't solve the problem. Came to find out later, that the pressure switch that i had changed about a month ago, it was wired incorrectly - maybe that's why it was tripping a lot? so i did wired this one correctly, but still didn't work. Did i burned the pump? another note here is that it has been less than a year that i changed the water pump. My question is, what could the problem be this time? did i burned the pump because i wired the pressure switch incorrectly? any suggestion, please email me thanks!
what the hell are you working on?? Need just a little more input
Q:So when you exercise, is the amount of salts and water pumped out in the loop of henle reduced, if so why????
Salt impacts the osmotic interest of a cellular. this implies that once it somewhat is modern-day in severe concentrations interior the cellular, water strikes into the cellular with the aid of osmosis. This extra water getting into the cellular could reason the cellular to rupture. interior the kidneys an identical mechanism applies. whilst the concentration of NaCl is severe interior the tubules extra water is retained interior the physique. besides the incontrovertible fact that, whilst the concentration of NaCl is low interior the Kidney tubules much less water is retained by utilising the physique.
Q:Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?
You want the pump specific to the engine. And the motor mounts specific to the vehicle. I have never seen a fan clutch that cannot be replaced separate from the water pump.
Q:My 2001 300M is behaving oddly. Occasionally it will gradually overheat after I have driven around for 15 or so minutes. Yes, occasionally. I took it to my mechanic who changed the thermostat and hoses. I then drove it on a trip on the interstate and over a mountain (140 miles ) It was fine with no signs of overheating. Then the next day when I drove to work in the city, the stop and go traffic had it overheating near the end of the trip. I've been able to keep it from going in the red by using the heater. After this happened most of the days, but not all, I took it back to the shop. He reported that the fans were working correctly and the only thing he could come up with is a weak water pump. He stated that when it did get hot, he was able to bring the temp down just by rev'ing the engine a little.Does that sound right? Any other ideas and how to test?
I've okorder
Q:I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider that I'm pretty sure needs a new water pump. It is still under warranty for another 1000 miles, but the nearest dealer is over 200 miles away, and Mitsubishi says they won't reimburse for work done at a non-Mitsubishi Dealer. I'm trying to figure out if the cost of just paying someone to have it done here in town versus having towed 200 miles and then driving it back, plus the lost cost of missed work.By the way my Mitsubishi Roadside Assistance will tow it to the nearest dealer for free, but last time I did that it was barely worth the hassle of dealing with their very poor contract towers.
Have you asked the dealer to send you the part at least? Call Mitsubishi and ask it that would be possible, you never know. You could send in the old pump and possibly get compensation. Keep your bills. Discuss it with them. Your dealer should provide you with the area Mitsubishi representatives contact information. The prices for those can be expensive. Ask the dealer, service dept, for the labour, how many hrs. to change the pump. They should tell you. Also for the cost of the pump. Add the two together and you have your ans. Join CAA, or AAA, get a gold card, wait two days for the card's towing to take effect, then have it towed in on the card. Done all the time. Or if you have a relative with a Gold card they can have it towed in as long as they are with the car with their card when the tow truck comes.
Q:The water pump in my 2001 PT Cruiser needs to be replaced and I'm wondering how much I'm looking at. I know it would vary and I know it's supposed to be labor-intensive but I thought I'd ask on here before I call my mechanic. We are trying to figure out if we should just go ahead and look at getting a new car. Thanks for any help!
They vary in price but at the right auto parts counter you might find a brand new or rebuilt water pump for about 75 bucks or so but no more then about 160 bucks.The labour on those takes a few hrs anywhere from 4 to 6 hrs or less all depends on the tools and the mechanic. Check around for the part and the labour costs and sometimes it's better when it's a job like this that will cost at least a good 275-400 in labour costs plus taxes to have the shop supply or sell you the part bec then the shop truly should warranty the part via their part supplier and warranty their own labour work too.Also some shops here in Canada charge from 69 to 89 an hr or higher but there are also some shops that will offer a flat rate for work done by them too.So if you have a shop wanting 80 an hr and to charge for 6 hrs or more they could end up charging you well over 600 bucks just for the labour alone. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way if you do end up deciding to fix that vehicle there could be some shops in the local smaller towns that might offer you the lower rates due to them being family operated or owned etc and I'd try to find a shop that has done lots of that same vehicle make work.

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