WBP Vectiry Pump
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<1> Technology Parameters:
Environmental temperature: +5º C-º C+40
Air relative humidity: ≤ 90%
Flow: 5-120L/S
Rotary Speed: 1450r/min
Calibre: Φ50-Φ250
Temperature Range: ≤70º C
Working Pressure: ≤2. 5MPa
<2>Features:
a)Compact structure
b)Stable running, low noise
c)No leakage
d)Convenient operation
e)Viewing from the inlet of the pump, the outlet of it can
be mounted in one of the three ways, horizontally leftward,
vertically upward and horizontally rightward
<3>Application:
a)Water supply for the fixed-fighting system of both industrial and civil builtings.
b)Fire hydrant fire-extinguishing system
c)Automatic spraying fire-extinguishing system
d)Fog-spraying fire-extinguishing system etc
- Q: I've got a 1997 Ford Probe, taken it to a couple different places; whenever I drive my vehicle, it tends to want to overheat. I don't drive it to the point where it does though, I know that could cause more damage! I've noticed that when I go out to my car in the morning, there's some coolant on the ground by the front passenger's tire. Before I drive it I fill it with coolant, as to try to keep it from overheating while driving.I've been told that it's the water pump leaking from 2 people but then the last person said there's no leakage. I'm wondering if it might be something else? Maybe a thermostat, a hose, maybe? How would I figure this out???
- If it is your water pump, just keep driving the car and you will soon know. The pump will lock up, you get towed in, then get to have the pump repaired. By what you said, my guess is the water pump needs replaced.
- Q: i hear water swirl in my dash board when i take off and when i reverse, i heard its the water pump pushing water through the heater core, but how can i fix it.?
- The issue is not just that the water pump is pumping air through the system, it is that there is an issue with air being in there in the first place. It gets there one of two ways. First, your cooling system is losing water somewhere and air is getting drawn in through the coolant overflow bottle or through a leak in the hoses, the radiator, or the radiator cap. Second it is getting in through a compression leak. Compression leaks are caused by blown head gaskets or cracked or corroded cylinder heads or engine blocks. You need to determine which it is, because you need to address the issues differently. Fill the cooling system with coolant, purge the air out of it, and connect a pressure gauge to the radiator where the cap normally goes. Start the engine. If the gauge fluctuates up and down, you have a compression leak caused by a blown head gasket or crack in the block or head. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate, you have a leak in the cooling system that could be in any one of many places, such as hoses, caps, freeze plugs, the radiator itself, the heater core, or one of many gaskets. If it turns out to be a compression leak, you need to pull off the heads and replace the gaskets, and if there is any corrosion or cracks, you need to either replace or repair the heads. Broken head bolts can also allow compression leaks, so if you do remove the heads, you need to replace the bolts and torque them to the correct specs. If your engine oil looks frothy, like latte, this is another sign that you have a blown head gasket. It means coolant is getting into the engine oil. If it is a leak in the cooling system that is not related to the head gasket, you need to find it and seal it. There is no other way to find out exactly what is allowing air into your cooling system other than these two methods. The sound you hear when water is flowing through your heater core is actually the air gurgling through. No air, no sound.
- Q: I tried using my water line with a pressure tank and pressure switch but without a pressure tank I observed that when he pressure reaches 30 psi the motor pump switches off automatically and when we open the faucets to use water the pressure switch turns on again the motor pump.
- All that will do is cause your pump to burn out sooner. It will run WAY more often without a tank. The tank allows for a 'range' in your pressure, in other words, the pump will fill the tank to 30 psi, but will not kick on again until the tank gets below a certain level, say 20 psi, at which point it will pump it back to 30 and cut off again. Without a tank, the pump will run whenever you draw water.
- Q: I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
- Blue pump, usually found on the floor near the furnace (sometimes mounted where plenum meets the furnace frame) is a condensate pump. One of the products of combustion is water. This water is drained from the ventor motor (a motor which runs and sets a artificial draft inside the combustion chamber) to a drain nearby or a electric pump which then pumps the water over a longer distance to a remote drain. If the pump's discharge outlet gets plugged from dirt the result is usually the mess you see. Remove the cover plate of the pump housing, clean it out and run a wire with a small rag attached as a snake through the tube to drain. There is usually some type of float switch inside the pump housing so make sure it is free to move. Check for operation by pouring some tap water in it and move the float switch to on (up) One final note and this is very important. If the pump or tube to drain is filled up with a crud that resembles paste, call your local trusted HVAC tech for furnace service. This condition can be an early sign of heat exchanger failure and is a major safety concern for your family
- Q: and how do I get it to work 24 hours a day?and on the pump there is written: 2 A, and on another part: 220-240 Vdoes that mean its wattage is 440-480Watt?
- Hey Don ..did you mean consecutive hours..if so. Here is how to do it..If there is fluid to be pumped there is sometimes a controller that will ask the pump to stop when it reaches low level . And again ON when it senses high level. Find this device, if one exists and either defeat it mechanically or wire around it electrically.Either is pretty simple. NOW that i have told you how to get it to run all the time. I though I might mention a timer..A timer, in series with your pump, will cut it off and give the liquid level a chance to rise as well. Timers can be defeated the same as all other protective devices,, My question is Are you sure this is what you want to do ? The plug on the end of the cord ,it must be a small pump if only 2 amps, should be your only control .If it has an auto off feature it's there to save your pump from burning the barn down ,so to speak, Why not take another look at your application. if you do have an endless fluid supply ,like a closed loop trickling fountain, remember those evaporate if make up water is not added. Sometimes though you need a pump to run 24-7 in which case just fool the controller..Of course the human is the true controller... :) Well I have armed you with enough info to get by on this please do so safely. From the E...
- Q: What things in my car could the seizing of my water pump cause? As I stated in another question, the power steering went, the red battery light came on and it over heated. The mechanic said it seized and i'm lucky the engine didn't seize. He has to look into it more. I'm just really curious as to what kind of damage i've done and the possibilities! thanks in advance.
- well... depending on how severe the problem is, it could be many things. You could simply have to change the water pump, and be on your way. That's the best case scenario. Though, in really bad cases, I've heard of the whole engine having to be replaced. When the water pump stops working, the engine doesn't get cooled properly. So it heats up a ton, and things start to expand. The pistons can start to gouge the cylinder walls, and ultimately they will get so tight that things can't move. That's what the mechanic was talking about. Also, the water expanding could cause some internal gaskets to blow out. So there are a lot of variables at play here. Best case, it's nothing serious. Maybe as little as $100 for a new water pump (depending on the type of car). Or worst case, you fried the engine and need a new one. That can get quite expensive obviously. Hopefully, it's nothing serious.
- Q: I'm using an old Mitsubishi Lancer. Recently I changed my water pump it was leaking.To me it looked like a piece of metal, with a small fan thing (not motorized) How can it fail? There is no mechanics to it, just like a pipe with a fan (or turbine)I also messed with my radiator, I unhooked the main hose to clean out the coolant, since the plug was jammed. Could this have contributed to the failing of my water pump?
- if the radiator is clogged up, the water pump cant circulate the water.
- Q: I have a 1990 GMC K1500 Sierra and about 1 week ago I went to check the anti-freeze level. I noticed it was a tiny bit down. So I look down at the lower radiator hose and it had a slow drip. So the next day I changed the anti-freeze, New thermostat, and a New lower radiator hose. So I thought it was fine but yesterday I went to go check the anti-freeze and the level was down. I look at the lower radiator hose and it has a slow drip again. The hose I replace was Brand New. Could this be a water pump? I did notice a tiny bit of anti-freeze on the water pump. Or what could this be or do I have to change the hose again?
- look at the bottom of the water pump best done from on the ground. you will see a small hole at the bottom this is called a weep hole. if you see anti-freeze at the weep hole then the water pump seal is bad and the pump needs replaced. a lot of time the weep hole will leak and run down the hose. if the pump is not leaking then tighten the hose clamp.
- Q: I want to run 1 HP, 220 v, single phase water pump on solar panels without using any batteries. what do I need to do so amp; how do I wire it?
- Hey R, if you have an existing pump you are trying to run that is designed for 220 AC, I would suggest going with the battery and inverter, but either way it will take about 1200 watts of solar. With no battery, the panels need to provide for the surge power to start up the pump, so now you're looking at at least 2000 watts of panel. Then as Caoedhen pointed out, one cloud goes by, it shuts down then starts again, this is not good for pump longevity, so you'll be spending more on replacement parts too. If you don't have the pump yet, and you want to go solar, I would use a slow DC pump, they make them strictly for solar panel operation, no batteries or special controllers. Windy Dankoff probably is the expert, do a google search for DC slow pumps, or look for Windy's website. Then you can get by with a lot less panel, and a better pump for them, plus no batteries. Take care, Rudydoo
- Q: Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?
- The pump is whatever fits the ENGINE. End of story.
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WBP Vectiry Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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