• Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 1
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 2
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 3
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 4
Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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 Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 



Q:I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.)
I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM
Q:Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
make sure thermostat is working properly and cooling system is bled properly to remove all air. If this doesnt work I would suspect head gaskets as Nissan engines in Villagers are known to blow head gaskets if ran hot for extended periods
Q:Can the water from the fire pump enter the roof fire tank? Why?
Here is the concept of "fire water tank", if the roof has fire water tank, fire pump should be able to roof fire water tank water supply, as long as there is sufficient pressure on the line. However, if the roof water tank is only a living water tank, the fire pump is not started, this is the two pipelines.
Q:i am not sure whether the water pump is bad or how much water should come out of exhaust.
It may not be your water pump at all. It could be a blown head gasket or a cracked block. Do you drive it very much? If you do and it doesn't totally overheat, it isn't your water pump. Water pumps usually tend to make a lot of noise when they go bad. Depending on the temperature of the air where you live, I would say don't worry too much about white clouds coming out of your exhaust. You do notice I said white? Condensation in an exhaust pipe is normal. Check the little stuff first. Check your thermostat and radiator cap first. Those are inexpensive. Have your radiator checked at the local Mom and Pop radiator shop where they will also check your hoses and engine oil, to see if it looks like mud. That will tell you if you have a cracked block. Total overheating can be a blown head gasket which is expensive because of labor. The parts cost is minimal, it is just a total b i t c h because you have to get the whole top of the motor off. Have your freeze plugs checked too and if they are plastic, have them replaced with brass ones. It is a very old vehicle and you are going to be looking at some money to fix things. I hope I helped, although you didn't tell me the name of the vehicle. That would help a bit more and if you know it is the water pump, go get a new one!!!!!!! And check your fan belts too while you're at it. Good luck! :) I'm just a dumb lady...lol!
Q:i need to know an estimated cost for changing this cars water pumpthanks..
Too okorder i did this, and by doing so it saved me money, time, and the risk of getting ripped off.
Q:how do u know when u need to replace ur water pump or how do u know when its not working??? thanks
Water pump may have three types of failure: 1. Leaking shaft seal You know by a. puddle under the car, b. low coolant level, c. ultimately - overheat 2. Shaft bearing failure You know by excessive noise, play in the shaft, ultimately - leak from the seal (see 1) 3. Turbine itself breaks. This is a rare case, and the only one that represents no working condition. The engine immediately - withing a few minutes - overheats.
Q:How does a pump get water from a low low elevation to a higher elevation.
Natural okorder /
Q:We had a thunderstorm followed by power outage last night, this morning I went to use the water and it slowly went dead.I began by inspecting the pressure tank and pressure control switch, then found the outside water pump breaker was tripped, upon resetting the water was back on!But wait, after about 1-2 minutes of use there was a small quot;POPand smoke from the control switch and the breaker tripped again. It seems now that every time the water pump kicks in I've got a 50/50 shot of the circuit breaker blowing. I'm not sure what to do now, I don't want to keep resetting my pump breaker, we really didn't get that much rain so I don't know what would be causing this issue?Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks!
If it works on one circuit but not another, why don't you just leave it where it works ? You didn't say what size the breaker is, or if there's something else on the same circuit. Maybe the pump plus one other item on that circuit are together enough to trip the breaker. Is it possible to give it it's own dedicated breaker at a bigger current, say 15 or 20 amps ? There's nothing wrong with being generous with your breaker size, it's not uncommon for breakers to trip if there's a constant current which is near, but under the rated current. It will still trip the breaker if there's a short.
Q:Mercedes 2000 ml 320. I changed radiator and water pump now car only runs half as worm than it used to. So now heat blows cold to little warm depending on how cold out side
I don't mean to be a cheak but did you put all the pipes back where they should be and did you put the thermostat back in?
Q:In 2005, the water pump, export pressure in recent years decreased year by year, the running current is increasing, there are 4 pumps are like this. Professional personnel advice please!
The reasons are as follows:(1) motor guide bearing wear, water pump rubber bearing wear, sealing ring wearMotor or water pump bearings wear, will make the submersible pump in the machine on the wrong state of work, serious damage to submersible pumps, stator windings burned. The method is to repair or replace damaged bearings and bushings.(2) thrust bearing wear, submerged pump impeller and lower cover wearThis situation will also make the submersible pump on the machine in an abnormal state of work, serious damage to the submersible pump. The treatment method is to check the cause of the wear of the thrust bearing. Whether the mechanical seal of the shaft extension is damaged or not, which causes sand particles and impurities to enter the inner cavity of the motor, causes excessive wear of the thrust bearing. If it is caused by the mechanical seal of the submersible pump, the replacement of the thrust bearing, thrust plate and impeller, lower cover plate and other parts shall be replaced by mechanical seals at the shaft extension end.(3) the flow of the submersible pump is too large or too smallThe use of submersible pumps flow beyond the scope of use will make the motor overload of centrifugal pump or mixed flow pump, excessive flow, the pump shaft power increases, the motor overload; for the axial flow pump, the flow is too small, the pump shaft power increases, the motor overload. The treatment method is to adjust the valve properly, reduce the flow rate of the centrifugal pump or the mixed flow pump (increase the axial flow pump), and make the flow of the pump in the normal range of use.(4) the shaft of the submersible pump is bent and the bearings are not concentricThis is a serious case of submersible pumps, should be immediately overhauled, straighten the bent shaft, replace the unqualified bearings, re assembled submersible pumps.

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