• Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 1
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 2
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 3
  • Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump System 4
Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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 Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 



Q: The actual way to move water (liquid) from a pond with small bits of debris. Trying to find out which system is the most efficient: vane, impeller, rotary, centrifugal...etc...either by hand or using a bicycle to turn the pump. I do NOT want to use an engine or electric motor. I've read about the transfer pumps in the hardware store are only about 50% efficient, I need something better that will provide me a continuous output. Something lightweight that will handle pressure. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!!
Most efficient (fewest parts) is a lift pump. The simplest example is if you use a bucket. You can make this easier to use with a few extra parts to make a shadoof the only losses are friction in the pivot and any leakage that takes place.
Q: Got pump ready and will not pump water. Have tried all things suggested to prime but will not pump water
all i can think of is it may not want to lift water real high if the intake is way lower than the pump, and be sure the hose is secure and its not sucking air .. if the thing has a plug on top remove it and fill it with water first ..
Q: I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
they're 2 distinctive areas, -- ninety 9% of the time you purely repalce the waterpump! The housing is kind of the decrease back of the pump assembly! analyze this to having a flat tire- you could might desire to throw the tire away,-- yet you utilize the wheel lower back! As for the leak, it relies upon in basic terms what's inflicting it, - this is repairable, - or it could no longer, -- possibly there's a discrepiency interior the instullation additionally. this might purely be desperate by using an experienced mechanic that takes the time to look and see what's inflicting the leak! working example a chip or intense scratch in mating surfaces might enable leak! -- often no sealer is needed while installation a waterpump, - the gasket usually compenstates for any minor' discrepiences of this style (so sealer might desire to no tbe mandatory)! yet this same concern must be relatively solved with a sprint silicone RTV sealer, - it could fill the scratch or chip and seal it off so no leak occoured! *** it is likewise a possibility that the housing isn't good sealed the place it mounts on the block (or the hoses), - and the housing itself must be solid! Housing expenses greater suitable than pump! additionally finding on what they might desire to do to get it out and alter it, - the hard artwork ought to fee lots! finding on whether you're able (or keen) to take this aside and and examine all of it out for your self, -and see if concern exists, - or is repairable (or substitute housing out yoruself), - you will possibly desire to remember on what the storage says! by using the way in some fifty 5 years of being a mechanic, - I even have seen greater defective new areas than i like to think of roughly,- so there's a threat that to procure a team of undesirable areas too! this is unlikely which you're able to get 4 in a row-- (till some production unit became out 10k - improper contraptions on assembly line), -- yet it relatively is not impossible!
Q: I am selling a 96 eclipse that needs a new water pump. I am willing to sell it for an offer as is, but I would like to fix it and sell it for more, so it is as if I am getting paid for the labor.My question is, is it possible at all to change out a water pump on a 96 eclipse without pulling the engine out? Like through the passenger wheel well access panel or anything?
Ive owned some Mitsubishis... they have an inclination to no longer be the main solid automobiles on earth. I actually have a eagle talon tsi (the swifter yet much less solid kind), and it choose maintenance surprisingly many times. the rs is a little extra solid, yet for my area, in case you do not have funds, and its your first motor vehicle, get something a splash extra solid.... (i'm gonna hate myself for asserting this) look at a Toyota or Honda... i made the blunders of having a ludicrous motor vehicle as my first and that i had no longer something yet problems with it... i had to spend what little funds i had to maintain the piece of crap working, purchase a first rate motor vehicle for now and spend you cash on a date or something :) -do notcontinual swifter then your parent angel can fly-
Q: After I replaced the water pump impeller in my outboard I fired up the motor and now its not pumping any water through the pee-hole at all and also the prop is spinning in the neutral position (motor seems as if it is in gear and trying to move). Would this be because of the shift rod or the drive shaft not being in the proper position and possibly the impeller is being span the wrong in the impeller housing cup?
I had that problem once and the tube going to the pee-hole was blocked, the next time higher revs caused enough pressure to unblock it. With the motor NOT running, put it in forward, then neutral, or reverse then neutral. If the prop is locked, it's still in gear. If it was OK before the work, you probably need to re-adjust the linkage. The drive shaft from the motor only turns one way and so does the impeller. The prop shaft has a clutch dog that controls F-N-R through linkage adjustment. Good luck
Q: my pump went out and i can't afford to have it fixed at a shop.
Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block. Remove drive belts. Remove crank pulley. Remove timing belt covers. Note: It is not necessary to loosen or remove the timing belt during water pump service. CAUTION: When removing water pump assembly, be careful not to get coolant on timing belt. Remove water pump. INSPECTION Check body assembly and vane for rust or corrosion. Check for rough operation due to excessive end play. NOTE: Water pump cannot be disassembled and should be replaced as a unit. INSTALLATION Use a scraper to remove old liquid gasket from water pump. Also remove old liquid gasket from mating surface of cylinder block. Apply a continuous bead of liquid gasket to mating surface of water pump. Use Genuine Liquid Gasket or equivalent. Install water pump. Install remaining parts in reverse order of removal. Install drive belts. Refill engine coolant. After installation, run engine for a few minutes, and check for leaks.
Q: I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is building a lot of pressure and the water is bubbling in the reservoir what could be wrong? And I took the thermostat out last week
2000 Ford Ranger Water Pump
Q: Is this a symptom of a bigger problem or do I just need to replace the water pump?
Time for a new pump That leak comes from what is refured to as a weep hole. Get it fixed ASAP as if it over heats it can and will crack a head if it gets to hot.
Q: 2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.
To be sure that its the water pump or not, try this simple practical procedure; 1. remove the coolant reservoir cover (the pressure tank) 2. make sure the water level in it is up to the recommended maximum level 3. start the engine, and see if water is returning to the water reservoir via the return hose/pipe, and if the water is moving down the inlet hose to the engine block 4. if water return to the resevoir via the return hose and water is moving down to the engine, the the water pump is fine. 5; check if your thermostat is not faulty, this can be responsible for abnormal measurement of the water temperature. 6. you used the word FULL, I hope u did not filled the resevoir to the top with water, above the maximum level? in that case you can get high temperature on your gauge. Goodluck. I am a mechanic
Q: I have a well that is 6inch and down 250 ft. It use to be used to water our grove. The submersible pump went bad and I had it pulled and capped. I was wondering since the water level in the pipe is around 6 feet down, can I install an above ground jet pump to feed my house? Could I just go down around 30 feet and pump with the above ground jet pump instead of using the submersible pump? tks for any help..
yep hook up a shallow well pump with a head of around 30 feet

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