Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump Hot Sell in Turkey

Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump Hot Sell in Turkey

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Specifications

DL Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump
1. high efficiency
2. long lasting
3.stainless steel impeller
4.1 year warranty

DL Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump

Application:

Widely used in urban water supply and pressure boosting, industrial cirsulating system and processing system, environmental protection water treatment and infiltration analysis system, liquid conveying, circulation and boosting of hot and cold clean water, soft water.

Stainless Steel type is also used for water with tiny content of alkali, mineral, distilled water, water for swimming pool and solution with chloride, but the allowed temperature of the liquid should be reduced.

Advantages:

1. Water-power model design, high efficiency and save energy.

2. There is vane wheel inside, the pump shell and main fittings takes with stainless steel punch, flow-road is very smooth, axle sleeve is hard metal tool, so that will be super-powerful long lasting using time, to prevent producing second pollution and its axle cover seals with wear-resisting machine, unreveal.

The range of parameter:

Capacity: 2 to 76 m3/h

Head: 15 up to 195 m

Efficiency: 72% up to 92.5%

Rotation Speed: 2900 r/min

Power: 0.37 up to 30 kw.

Q: :) approximatley how many and where would you buy them :/ :) x peacce dudes: LIKE A BAJILLION!!! You can never have too many water pumps. You buy them from the water pump store on the corner of 85th and Broadway, next to the Wachovia Bank branch across the street. P.S.: Africa is NOT a country. LMAO!!!

Q: my basement flooded and the water came in contact with the wiring on my water pump.Now the pump tries to turn on but shuts off without pumping any water.How do i get my pump pumping water again?: sounds like the bearings locked up...best to replace it

Q: i need help on how to replace a water pump oil seal in a 2001 rm80...i looked everywhere...if you can get a video or detailed info that be great, thanks: Drain coolant - #13 drain bolt Remove hose from water pump cover Remove water pump cover - #12 Drain oil Remove R side cover - #1 Remove circlip - #23 Remove water pump shaft - #19 Pull out water pump seal - #20 Note the direction the seal is installed Tap in new seal This entire procedure is explained in detail in your service manual.

Q: Alright,I happen to be the only man in the house and the plumbing is a bit faulty. You see,the machine has been filled with water as necessary and was ignited. It sounds perfectly fine and you can feel water run through the pipes connected to it, when touched. But it's been an hour now and the taps are not producing water. Please can anyone help? Under normal circumstances,there should be enough water now but the taps are all empty despite the water running through the pipes. What can I do? Please help. I filled it with even more water and there's no result. Help please. Thank you.: If you are in a very cold climate you could have frozen pipes. If not call a plumber.

Q: A guy i know changed the Water pump on my 02 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.7 in it because it was leaking coolant, when i got it back the leak was fixed but now there is a ticking noise. He thinks that the Timing Chain Tensioner needs to be replaced... can i get some opinions here? does he sound correct?: It is possible. The water pump is driven off the timing chain on that engine. Why didn't he replace the tensioner when it was apart is a good question. The fact that it is now ticking isn't a good sign. I hope it was lined up properly.. get it looked at soon before there is the potential for damage.

Q: was putting a water pump on, and i tight too much on 2 bolts, and they broke. is it anyway to fix it ?? is it going to cost alot in labor ??: Well if the bolts are sticking out of the engine enough you can try screw extractors you can buy a set at your local store hammer that on then use a wrench or socket Extension to remove it. When you install the new bolts use a little anti-seeze and use a torque wrench.

Q: My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.: A two wire pump usually has a 120 volt motor. The neutral wire from the motor goes to the neutral wire at the disconnect switch. The other wire from the motor goes to one terminal screw of the pressure switch. The disconnect switch hot wire goes to the terminal screw right next to the first one. ( either the two terminals on the left or the two on the right. ) Sometimes people will switch the neutral wire as well. If the voltage is good, pressure switch contacts are clean - like no bugs having been smashed or caught up in between, then you might expect a break in the wire or the wire splice at the motor wire connection. If your old pump burned out you may have needed new wire also. Sometimes the wire will burn apart inside the insulation and make a bubble. If your old wire was in good shape, or you replaced it, you should have used a submersible splice to connect to the motor wires. Crimp on wire connectors should be crimped tight. Every now and then I find one that didn't get crimped on one side. Rubber tape followed by plastic tape over that splice is good. Some people like the plastic tubes with compression ends for a splice covering.

Q: Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles: Check the electric cooling fan to make sure it works correctly. Also check your drive-belt for the water pump and alternator it may not be tensioned correctly or may be stretched.

Q: Im considering installing an electric water pump in my car and i dont know much about electric water pumps yet so if you could tolerate a couple of dumb questions....? are electric water pumps reliable enough to be put into a daily driver (i just used the meziere name as an example, its the only name i am familiar with in electric water pumps)? i realise what the engine is basically done if the water pump goes.... could a change this small ever show up on either mpg or hp readings for a 200hp v6? finally, if the electric water pump just isnt worth the reliability risk, would a water pump underdrive pully do (almost) the same job of freeing work from the engine without putting the motor in harms way? thanks!: Ls1 Electric Water Pump

Q: Level 200 meters distance, elevation 30 meters, how much lift water pump?: According to the horizontal distance of 10 meters is 1 meters lift, 200 meters is 20 meters and 5 meters height difference of 30 Mega elbow, pump head floating down 10%, should be about 60 meters.

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