Sewage Submersible Pump WQ Series

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

Vertical Turbine Pump

High Pressure Water Pump

Water Pump For Water Wells

CQB-F Fluorine Plastic Magnetic Acid Pump

Cast Iron Single Stage Pump of High Quality

Multistage Split Casing Centrifugal Pump (KSY)

General Description
Type CRQW submersible sewage pump is newly developed on the basis of the advanced technology from international. Is used for industry and commerce, the living area，urban sewage treatment plant, waterworks，civil air-defense construction，hospital，hotel and so on. They can also be used in public works, explore, country methane, irrigation, deliver water with impurity. The flow-rate range of the delivery water is 7-10000m3/h, lift range is 7-60m,power range is 0.55-315KW, caliber range is φ25-φ700 mm.

Service conditions
* Medium temperature should not above 60℃, Maximum density is 1.3×103kg/m3.
* If the pump without a build-in self-circulation cooling system, its motor should not expose above water more than half.
* Deliver medium’s PH value is between 4 and 10.
* Solid particle passing capacity is 60% of the inlet diameter, the length of the fiber is 5 times to inlet diameter.

Instruction of pump type
Example: 100CRQW100－15－7.5
100 in the front: Pump outlet diameter is 100mm
CR: Company code, means produced by CREDO PUMP
QW: Submersible sewage pump
100 after: Flow capacity 100m3/h
15: Head is 15m
7.5: Motor power is 7.5KW

Structure

*Type CRQW Submersible Sewage Pump adopts particular single blade or double blade; advance the ability for get across feculence. Fiber about 5 times as pump caliber can across.
*Mechanical seal adopt fresh model cemented carbide rot-proof material, and at the same time, we improved on the airproof to the single-ended double-face mechanical seal, let them work in oil chamber for a long period of time.
*The whole structure is compact;, volume is small, little noise and the energy saving result was apparent. The machine needn’t pump room .It can work just dinning into water, so reduce project cost.
*According to need, we can equip safety protection control cupboard to protect the pump, advanced the safety and reliability.
*The float switch can control automatically, do not need specially-assigned person. It’s very convenient.
*According to need, we can equip automatic coupler installation system. So people needn’t get into the drainage ditch.
*Can be used in all the range of lift ,and it won’t overload.
*There are two different install way, fixed type automatic installation system and movable type automatic installation system.

Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?: It sounds like you have two pressure tanks. I am going to guess that the one under your pump probably went out and instead of taking it out and re-plumbing everything they just spliced in a new tank. You can get a re-build kit for most pumps but it sound like your pump is pretty old and probably being held together with faith and rust and taking it apart might cause more problems. What I would do is price out what the re-build cost and what labor might be against what a new system might be. If you decide to go with a new system I would suggest looking into getting a submersible pump, using the same tank but making sure it is in a good location and plumbed with a union. when your pressure tank finally goes out it is going to weigh a ton and trying to move it around plumbing can be difficult. good luck and happy holidays.

Q: Water pump part is stainless steel, which part is it?: The part of the pump head, that is, the part of the flow

Q: We're doing some droplet impact experiments and are creating the flow of water to our droplet generators by elevating our source of water. Unfortunately as the water depletes the pressure changes. We need to siphon off the water from our lower basin where the water collects and pump it back up to the source (around 6-8 feet up). What kind of pump do I need for this?: Your question could be responded in some steps the 1st step is you're able to create electric power- to try this you'll choose for a small generator/alternator to create AC power. The generator/alternator has 2 important factors- the 1st being coils of twine and the 2d being magnets on the subject of an enter shaft which spin on a similar time as the enter shaft spins(which will then hook up with a waterwheel). The coils of twine are arranged exterior of the circumference of the region the magnets spin. The magnets each and each and each and each have their very own magnetic field and since the magnetic field passes with the help of the coils an electric powered impulse is made.those electric powered impulses are reported as AC power(alternating present day-day). staring on the size of the water wheel you're able to might desire to apply a transformer to step down the potential if it improve into too extreme. the subsequent step could be to prepare an AC to DC (direct present day-day) converter so as that the electrical powered power might possibly be utilized with the help of your motor. An AC to DC converter makes use of diodes and arranges them to create a + and - can charge. After the AC to DC converter, you're able to basically connect the unfavorable and useful terminals to the corresponding ones on the motor. in case you have any questions, please be happy to earnings throughout the time of the links decrease than or seek for youtube for movies on how electric powered generators, transformers and autos paintings.

Q: I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!: can't tell you the price, don't know where you live and where you get yoiur work done, call around.. belts need to be replaced when they're worn. look for cracks, frays and listen for squealing. (sometimes the water pump will squeal when it's bad...) otherwise, take the car in to someone you trust and have them look at it..ESTIMATE only..

Q: Where is the water pump?How do i take it out, and replace it?: Another thing that's good to do is disconnect the battery , plus be sure to check the quality and mixture of the coolant with a anti-freeze tester , also have a container handy so nothing falls on the ground bec anti-freeze is poison to animals if they drink it etc. Hope that helps and best of luck.

Q: Im having a hell of a time getting the water pumps to work, even when located right next to a water source (i.e. river, lake, ocean, etc). Ive tried various locations and it has never worked for me. ive made sure the game isnt paused and that the pump has power but nothing works. its not as simple to use as the water pumps in the previous sim city games. Can anyone give me a hint? ive been looking everywhere for a definitive answer.: Pumps need to be next to fresh water(rivers, lakes) be powered and have water pipes running from them.

Q: I have a 1.5 horse Power Hit and Miss engine? Is it possible to buy a water pump I could run off of the hit and miss engine that would pump water from a river over a big hill and little ways and into a water tank or is this just a waste of time. How much water could I pump at a time? A trickle or a gush of water? When I say hill I don't mean like a little hill in your yard I mean a hill you have to hike up? If you don't know are there any resources I could access? Where could I buy such a pump if there is one?: A horse and a half won't do much. You would be better off with a hydraulic ram type pump if you can get about a 10 or 15 foot fall before the ram. It will pump about 4 or 5 times the height of the fall, but in small quantities. It will run 24/7 without gasoline, so it will fill a tank over a long period of time. The railroads used them during the steam era when they had huge water towers out on the plains.

Q: Plumber quotes installing system using cross-over valve which some way ties the recirculation through the cold water pipes. This sounds like a short-cut. Are there any disadvantages to this system?: what your plumber is installing is a pump and temperature sensor under a sink , hopefully the furtherest from the water heater. what it does is sense when the hot water temp drops below a certain point, at which time it pumps the water into the cold line until the temp rises again.. the obvious advantage being , not having to wait a long time at the faucet for the water to get hot.. the also obvious disadvantage being electric consumption.. not only for the pump and controller , but also with the water heater clicking on a little more often.. not a lot of expense but a balance against convenience..

Q: Hi,My problem is of this automatic water pump ,it is disrupt always I don't no why..I also want to knew what is the function of the pressure air tank??? The picture is here:: WHAT does it is disrupt always really MEAN?? OK, that said... pumps such as this work to maintain a pressure with two set points even though the regulator only has one indicated.. The lower set point which as pressure drops, the pump turns on, and the upper set point where when the pressure rises to that point, the pump shuts off. When the pressure drops to the lower set point, it triggers the pump to run. When the pressure rises to the upper set point, the pump turns off. If the set point is 50 pounds, it may turn on at 47 and off at 53, or the window could be smaller and on at 49 and off at 51. The air bladder works as a shock absorber, just as the shocks work in your car to smooth the ride. When the pump turns ON there is a pressure pulse that without the air space, would promptly turn the pump off again. This is called short cycling and will cause your pump to on-off-on-off-on-off rapidly. The solution is to refill the air bladder. People with well pumps instead of city water have this problem frequently as the air bladder loses the bubble and does not work as a spring or shock absorber. I have city water NOW, but I used to use a well (which is still operational if I choose to use it) and I experienced pump short cycling the very first year I bought the house. The thing IS, I was ignorant. I missed the thing about a well and a septic tank that also uses a pump to an above ground drain field. YES. I was STUPID because I had NOT paid attention. NOW, years later, I have learned, the HARD way mind you, how these sanitary systems WORK in real life in RURAL America....

Q: Okay, the fan has the clutch unit on the front with the large nut attaching it to the water pump. Then 4 screws attach the pulley to the water pump as well. What's the best way to immobilize pulley/pump so I can get the fan blade clutch nut unscrewed? Can't hold onto the fan or clutch unit since it simply spins. Can't realy seem to hold onto the pulley either as it prefers to spin? Any suggested best ways?: First remember this tighten is loosen and loosen it tighten with the big nut on the fan clutch. And there is a tool you can buy (BMP design and Bavarian autosport have them) but I never bought one because I only could have used it once, and I try to keep my tool box as empty as I can. All this with the belt on..Get the biggest screwdriver you have and a heavy hammer. Now put the screwdriver on the tighten side one of the flat sides edge. Take hammer and give it a big wack. As long as the last guy put the fan clutch on right it should take no more than 2 tries to loosen it. Once its loose just spin it off by the fan blades and pull it out. I only once had to use a sawsall (only time I could have used the tool)on both the water pump and fan clutch to do a water pump job and after inspection I found some moron used lock tight. When you reinstall just spin it on and that's it no need to tighten.. I like to put antiseize on the bolt threads so I know the next time I have to remove the fan it will come off like buttahr...

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit