Q:I recently took the compressor apart, lubricated all components, but the pump still wont work. I hear the relay click when i turn on the air pump uld it be the relay, or the fuse, and if its the fuse, where is it located? i know the relay is in the trunkany help would be appreciated, thank you

There are 2 relays in this system one is located in the right rear of the trunk. The 2nd is located in the r/h instrument panel fuse block and is labeled ( elc relay position e) there are 2 fuses for this system both in above mentioned fuse block ( elc fuse 30a) and (abs/ccr 10a) . Check the elc fuse first . If ok remove the (elc relay position e ) with a fused jumper wire jumper the red wire to the green wire or terminal 30 to 87 and verify pump operation. The terminal numbers are labeled on the bottom side of the relay. I'm assuming the relay you are hearing is in the trunk so it's most likely if that relay is clicking it's working. If the pump operates check for voltage at terminal (85) of the fuse block (ignition on) then check for ground at terminal (86) at the fuse block while the inflator switch is on . If all ok replace relay . If your missing power or ground to any of the above mention terminals locate and repair source of open/short. Most likely the elc relay position e is faulty.Hope that helps

Q:any little help would be great!A beam of light with red and blue components of wavelengths 670nm, respectively, strikes a slab fused quartz at an incident angle of 30 degree. On refraction, the different components are separated by an angle of 0.001 31 rad. If the index of refraction of the blue light?

OK, this question doesn't make sense, for two reasons: 1.) Colors, by definition, are at different wavelengths. If the beam has 2 color components, each component would have it's own wavelength. 2.) Your question at the end isn't a proper sentence, and is leaving a necessary part out.

Q:During the battle of Gettysburg, the gunfire was so intense that several bullets collided in mid-air and fused together. Assume a 5.07 g Union musket ball was moving to the right at a speed of 243 m/s, 19.5° above the horizontal, and that a 3.01 g Confederate ball was moving to the left at a speed of 280 m/s, 15.5° above the horizontal. Immediately after they fuse together, what is their velocity?in m/s i + m/s j form.I'm not sure how to do this problem. I know I have to split them into components but I'm really lost on this.

Since we have an inelastic collision the kinetic energy is not conserved. The momentum is conserved: m1V1 - m2V2 (m1 + m2)V V [m1V1 - m2V2]/[m1 + m2] A momentum is a vector quantity since it contains velocity in its product. Splinting in two components we have For x-axis or i components Vx [m1V1cos(19.5) - m2V2cos(15.5)]/[m1 + m2] And for for y-axis or j components Vy [m1V1sin(19.5) + m2V2sin(15.5)]/[m1 + m2] They are moving in the a positive direction in x, however they are moving in a positive direction in y. Hmm. I did not know that confederates used a much lighter round. Perhaps this is why I'm saying notin!

Q:i just don't know where to find this information!! I can't find it in my notes or in my teachers notes!!!

Components required: Polymerase Enzyme - This is the actual molecule that forms a secondary DNA strand by fusing complimentary nucleotides to a phosphate backbone Polymerase Enzyme Buffer - Keeps the mix stable Magnesium: Improves replication efficiencies dNTPs: The nucleotides A,T,C G - molecules required to form the secondary strand Primers - one complimentary to the upper DNA strand and another to the lower strand - these are short oligonucleotide molecules complimentary to the start end of the sequence you wish to replicate. It acts as an anchor from which replication starts. Water - to bulk up the reaction to the required volume.

Q:And my truck still want start without jumping that wire

Always double check fuses. A poor connections could be the problem but I would be suspicious of the wiring. If the wires run under the truck, make sure they aren't damaged from debris or rubbing on other components. Try jumping at the relay +. If it runs while jumped at relay +, then you know its a problem before the relay (ign switch wiring, fuses, etc)

Q:I tried to install a new car stereo today. Like the idiot i am, I ignored everything I read about disconnecting the battery negative before I started. I assumed that removing the fuses for the radio would be fine. Anyway. I got the radio, and it was working fine for about 5 minutes. Then one of my dome lights flickered, and the radio started turning off and on again. I decided to try turning on the engine at this point to see if it just wasnt getting enough power. By the time i had gotten to the drivers side, everything was dead. The car wouldnt start, the lights dont come on. Everything is just dead. It got dark on me, so I've yet to remove the stereo, or check the inside fuse box. I'm hoping that its just a fuse, but with everything being out, and the main fuse in the motor-area fuse box intact, im losing hope that thats all thats wrong. I was thinking fusable link, or a solenoid. How did I manage to mess it up that bad? And how do I fix it? Thanks

It would help if you told us the year make and model of car.

Q:I bought a bargain DAB radio, when I got it home it ran fine, then seemed to keep cutting out, would run finerepeat.Something suggested the power might be to blame, looked at the fuse, the plug is labelled 3amp, but someone had put in a 13 amp fuse. Will the radio be damaged through running with the wrong fuse?As I say, I paid a very bargain price for this, so if I'm gonna get a year or so's use, I'm happy enough. Not expecting too much anyway, and quite lazy about taking it back. But if it's going to be a useless lump by this time tomorrowCheers for any advice

The larger fuse alone will not cause damage, but together with another problem may. My guess. What ever is causing the radio to cut out, was also causing a 3 amp fuse to blow. That's why the previous moron I mean owner replaced it with a higher value. I would be concerned that something is overheatiing and shutting the unit down. It's only a mater of time before it doesn't come back on after cutting out.

Q:I recently bought a truck, it starts and runs great. However there is a serious electrical problem, the windshield wipers, electronic windows, and radio do not work. I have checked all the fuses and none were blown. Where else do I go from here in finding what the problem would be.

1988 yep there could have been a hole list of people cutting and hacking wires in that much time. A test light is going to be your best friend with this one. Due to the fact that everything is not out I'm going to say you should start with that test light in the fuse block, check the fuses with the test light first. I hope you can tell what fuses are for what, like the wipers, not sure you would have the owners manual in the glove box but I am sure you can get the info you need off the web. Start with the wipers, it would have a fuse of it's own. The radio may be tied in to something else, that is where the book would help. If you have no power to the fuse you will need to pull the fuse block down and inspect it it may be green with corrosion, from there all the items you said don't work get there power from the ignition switch so go backwards.

Q:I found a 2x12 Line Six Spider III amp for sale, the vendor claims that it can be fixed by installing fuses. Does this mean that the current fuses are blown, or that it never came with fuses? In the former case, how would I be able to tell if the fuses are blown, or if it only needs new fuses and there's not some other underlying issue?

well if the fuses are blown it probably wont work. when a fuse is blown you can see the metal is broken in two pieces inside. here's a picture. askthemechanic .uk/electric this may not be the right kind of fuse but the idea is basically the same.

Q:I have a video mixer here which the power plug says 12v 300mA and i have a power supply which is 12v 1700mA. Will i be able to use this power supply or will it blow the video mixer up? Thanks

You have a power supply with about 5 times the power requirement of the mixer. You can very safely use that power supply, the mixer will only take the 300ma that is needs. The higher capability of the power supply is idling(not used). In actuality you can run 5 mixers !!!!!!