HYK/HYS Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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1. Description
HYK series chemical submerged pump
Conform to API610 standard
Vertical centrifugal pump of single stage, end suction, with open impeller.
HYS has the same structure and performance with HYK series pump. The wetted parts can be used the special material, suitable for the high temperature, high concentration liquids, such as concentrated sulfuric acid and in other acid environments.
2. Technical Data
Capacity: 6~400m3/h
Head: 5~80
Temperature: -20~200℃
Nozzles: DN25~150mm
Pressure: 2.0MPa
3. Application
Paper-making, metallurgical, fertilizers, salt collecting, drainage industries.
Conveying the pulp below 8% density and other liquid with the solid content below 30%
4. Materials
For wetted parts in contact with medium, the common materials are as followings:
S.S.304, 316, 316L, TA2, MCU, DTM, Cr15Mo3, M-3 etc.
5. Pump Structure
6. FAQ
1 Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?
Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.
2 Where do I have to send pumps for service?
You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.
3 Are your pumps acid-proofed?
To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.
4 Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
5 Are your pumps protected against dry running?
No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
- Q: Alright,I happen to be the only man in the house and the plumbing is a bit faulty. You see,the machine has been filled with water as necessary and was ignited. It sounds perfectly fine and you can feel water run through the pipes connected to it, when touched. But it's been an hour now and the taps are not producing water. Please can anyone help? Under normal circumstances,there should be enough water now but the taps are all empty despite the water running through the pipes. What can I do? Please help. I filled it with even more water and there's no result. Help please. Thank you.
- not knowing the specific system, prolly correct. pipe frozen and what you feel is just bypass/recirc. as the water has no where to go. or there's an external leak somewhere under the house? keep doing that, depending on the system, and it's condition, might burn up a pump. many different kinds of systems. for a house or motor home, usually have one that's pressure activated. that is, pressure drops as a tap is opened, regualator sees that, starts the pump running. that would be a system that employs a reservoir. probably air charged. to sense pressure drops.a nd max pressures to shut the system off. but that may not be what you have. many different configs. USAF trained hyd/pneu tech. glorified plumber i guess.
- Q: We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?
- 2001 is not very old! If you can't see coolant leaking from some point when the engine is warm (and you WILL see it, and be able to track where it is coming from, if from a hose, a pipe, the radiator, or the pump, or a welch plug or some particular place in the engine bay), you could have a cracked head or block, or a blown head gasket. Another simpler possibility is the thermostat has gone bad. If the leak is from a head gasket or a crack inside the engine, a pressure test can be placed on the whole system to establish this. There could also be signs of coolant in the oil.
- Q: My truck has been over heating, and I cant figure out whats going on...the only thing that gets really hot is the upper radiator hose, and the radiator....I just noticed there was a plug unhooked from the water pump, what does that do? Or maybe it could be the thermostat? It just overheats, and when I park it, it wont start half the time, usually I can let it cool off and go, but sometimes it just dies and I have to let it cool off and jump it off.
- Most likely the thermostat. If there is no leak that's most likely. That plug could go to the fan sensor, but I think F-150 fans were belt driven. More likely it goes to the temp guage. If you have an electric fan, check to see if it goes on.
- Q: The flow of the pump will be reduced, the speed will change, the power of the motor will change?
- 1, this pump flow reduction is not the reason for speed. Because it is not matching the motor frequency conversion, the frequency of power supply unchanged, the motor speed will not change.2, the flow of water pump down, the reason may be that the impeller due to cavitation or wear and tear smaller, second, the gap between the impeller housing change, and the impeller plug foreign bodies, and some of the suction port leak.3, it is possible that the whole system resistance increases, so that the work point of the pump left.
- Q: 93 Cutless Sierra FWD
- It's a major job involving the belt tensioner and quite a few other hard to get at parts as the water pump is buried against the side of the engine compartment. But if you want to try it borrow from the library or buy a Chilton's or any popular service manual and follow the directions (STEP BY STEP),good luck
- Q: I have a 1997 15hp Mercury 2-stroke outboard. When I run it it runs great and does what i want it to do. However, sometimes it doesn't pee. I can still hold my hand in the stream when it does but its very very hot. It always pees when i run the motor WOT but when im just chugging along it goes out for a bit and then comes back on. Is this supposed to happen? I was told by my dad that the thermostat regulates the pump so that it doesn't cool the engine down too much. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated
- The radiator actual holds the water/coolant and the pump circulates the combination in the process the engine. Upon returning to the radiator, the water is cooled from air passing in the path of the fins of the radiator. The pumps activity is to circulate the combination to confirm that the nice and cozy water to relax for this reason, the engine is then cooled.
- Q: The water hose hooks from the radiator to the water pump. Does an o-ring go in it? What else could be causing it to leak?
- no 0-ring in it ! you either need a new clamp or hose. the cord is probably broke in yours.
- Q: We have a 92 cadillac deville, my husband can replace the water pump he justs need to know if you have to jack the motor a little. Please help before our car blows up!!
- Make a run to your nearest AutoZone pick up a repair manual. THey're maybe $15-20, but pretty useful.
- Q: My well is 58 meters deep, the water level is 20 meters, the water level has not been measured. What's the maximum water pump I should choose?
- Deep well pumps can be used. According to your parameters. 0. 75 or 1. The 1KW deep well pump is in line with your requirements. Elephant 0. 75KW head can reach 70 meters. The water output in an hour is about 3 tons.. I wonder how much you get out of the water every hour. If the amount of water is small, you can buy a larger power point. General domestic deep well pump 0. 75 or 1. The price of 1KW is between 500-700. In the case of ordinary brands. The price of imported goods is between 600-900. The products at this price are generally of good quality.. Of course they don't sell your shoddy premise.
- Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
- stick with the stock set up
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HYK/HYS Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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