• High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made System 1
  • High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made System 2
  • High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made System 3
  • High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made System 4
  • High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made System 5
High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made

High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Item:
High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Power:
Electric
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Application:
Sewage Pump

High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made


Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.

Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.

Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.

Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc.,

 have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and aftersales service, are performed according to the system management standard.


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100 WQ 50-30-3
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
3: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.



High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made



High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made

High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made




High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made


High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made

 Pictures Show

High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made

High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made



 


 Trading market

High Flow Rate Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump China Made

Transportation

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Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?
It sounds like you have two pressure tanks. I am going to guess that the one under your pump probably went out and instead of taking it out and re-plumbing everything they just spliced in a new tank. You can get a re-build kit for most pumps but it sound like your pump is pretty old and probably being held together with faith and rust and taking it apart might cause more problems. What I would do is price out what the re-build cost and what labor might be against what a new system might be. If you decide to go with a new system I would suggest looking into getting a submersible pump, using the same tank but making sure it is in a good location and plumbed with a union. when your pressure tank finally goes out it is going to weigh a ton and trying to move it around plumbing can be difficult. good luck and happy holidays.
Q: What is called soft start of water pump?
Soft start is a form of electronic control, mainly through the soft drive to achieve. Principle: the former contactor is directly started as contactor, first pull in, and the device is started by soft driving. Soft start device start smoothly, starting current is small, control system life is long. Soft start is now in widespread use. But the use of high-power equipment is less, the general current is less than 120A.
Q: I live in a condo building -- 3 floors, 7 units. In our storage units (right below my unit) is a water pump that was hooked up with the intent of helping the water flow to the 3rd floor. Everytime the pump goes off, it rattles, then makes a loud noise when it kicks off. The developers created a drywall box that houses the pump, which is surrounded by isolation, but it doesn't seem like it helps the noise. The pump also rattles the pipes that connect directly to the pump.My question is -- is this rattling normal for a standard water pump? If so, is there anything I can do to help cut down on the noise? If this is rattling is not normal of the standard water pump, what would it cost to replace it with something decent?
I do not know the kind of pump you are referring to. I will give my personal expertise. If it is a pump taking water from a tank, the piping might be loose, the knocking may be corrected with some air ventilation pipe. If it is pumping from a water tank: I suggest you look at a submersible pump capable of supplying water to 3rd floor. This kind of pump is less noisy. The noise at start, is the electric starter, and the noise at the end is when water returns and seals the stop valve. Also some air may be in the pipe, you need to purge the pump, as often as needed, try this first, and then the others. Good luck
Q: I just got a new boat with a diesel engine and I don't understand why there is a coolant tank as well as a water pump? I think the water pump goes to the heat exchanger but what actually cools the motor - how does this stuff work?
if you do indeed have a heat exchangers, you have two loops at work...the coolant circulates in the engine with its own pump; the tank is for topping up just like in a car. The external water pump....the one connected to the hose to the seacock / through hull...draws in cool sea water, passes that through the heat exchanger where it cools the coolant and then the hot sea water goes out the exhaust. This way you're not circulating hot corrosive sea water through the engine and shortening its life.
Q: The at is a 2003 Toyota celica. And how much would it cost to get the water pump and timing belt replaced?
You don't have a timing belt on the 1.8L (1ZZ-FE) engine, It has a timing chain! The water pump is driven from the serpentine belt and the labor to replace it calls for 1.8 hours (about $180) and the pump list for $52.99 and it is always wise to replace the thermostat and thermostat O-ring, and that will run you $18.00 and 1 gallon of global coolant $15.00 So your looking at about $280.00 after tax. @ The Interwebz dude, if you like typing so much, why don't you do some clicking so you can do some research before you type!
Q: I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Furnace Water Pump
Q: I am trying to change my daughters 2004 Grande Am water pump because people tell me it is squealing. We purchased a replacement pump and blue gasket glue. I know to remove the Serpentine belt (not sure which pulley to reduce tension on) then I need to know which bolts to un-tighten, won't the pump turn as a use the wrench? Is there a good video available on changing out the water pump? I've done maybe 5 water pumps in my lifetime all on V-8s with rear wheel drive, so they had easy access. Does anyone know the steps of removal or can someone point to a video of removal replacement?
better make sure it,s not the belt squealing and not the pump. usually when a water pump goes out they will leak. i would be checking the belt first.
Q: Help?Water is to be pumped to the top of a skyscraper. If the pump can create a gauge pressure (pressure above atmospheric pressure) of 8.50E+5 Pa, what is the height of the tallest building that it can service? DATA: g=9.8 m/s^2
Natural okorder /
Q: 2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.
I would not drive the car until it is fixed. You can do alot of damage to the cooling system and engine if you drive it while it's overheating. The thermostat on these vehicles are pretty reliable. I suspect the water pump's plastic impellar has broken apart and isn't circulating the coolant through the system like it should be. Are you the original owner? Are you under 100K miles? If, so, the water pump falls under the 10 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty. If it is the water pump, the dealership or authorized VW repair center should fix it for FREE. Good luck.
Q: Recently my ford aerostar van started pouring water from the weephole of the waterpump and all my oil was just disappearing leaving just foam on the dipstick...we drained what oil was in it and there was antifreeze in the oil so we figured it was a blown head but it it possible for antifreeze to leak into the oil due to a bad waterpump?
It is both. The water pouring from the weephole is a sign the waterpump went out on you. This probably caused the engine to overheat and blow the head gasket (if not crack the head as well.) Any time you have a blown head gasket you need to know what caused it to happen. A head gasket doesn't get blown for no reason, it is caused by overheating. Knowing what caused the overheating, in this case the water pump, is important because if you just fix the head gasket, it will happen again because you didn't fix the overheating problem.

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