• Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Good Quality System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Good Quality System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Good Quality System 3
Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Good Quality

Fiber Cement Board Water Proof Type with Good Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
600 pc
Supply Capability:
20000 pc/month

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Products Introduction:

The fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.


Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..



Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium   density

High   density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<< span="">D≤1.5

1.5<< span="">D≤2.0

Water absorption

%

≤30

≤25

Non-combustibility

GB   8624-2006, grade A

wet expansion

%

≤0.25

Beding strength

dry

MPA

Strength   grade class III

20

Strength   grade class IV

24

Saturation   with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards

 

FAQ

1.Sample: small sample can be offered by free

2.OEM: OEM is accepted

3.MOQ: small order is ok

4.Test: any third party is accepted to test

5.Factory: Can visit factory any time

6.Delivery Time: small order is within 7days or according to your order

 

Description:

 

1.Superposition joint part between main carrier and vice carrier or vice carrier and carrier is called point lap.

2.It uses lap structure to assembly, connection between joints dovetail very well. The joint face unknits and have a nice appearance.

3.There is a barb at the vice carrier joint, it can avoid loosing and falling from the infection of outside force.

4.Soleplate of main and vice carrier is zincification armor plate, which meets the national GB standard demand. We use baked paint zincifcation armor plate as baked paint panel,whoes capacity of zincification is high. It meet the national GB standard demand.

5. Raw Meterial is galvanized steel with 80-100g/sqm

Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Good Quality

Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Good Quality


Q:Can the cement board cut off the wall directly
Is not, even if the brush on the long time is to fall off, unless the picture is hydrophilic, it is a kind of hydraulic map, otherwise it is not enough.
Q:i'm tiling my shower and i know i have to put up cement backboard, but do i need a vapor barrier behind it?do i cut the backerboard so the bottom of it touches the top of the tub or leave a little space between them? do i need to tape in between the boards? any help would be appreciated.
Vapor barrier a good idea, 6 mil poly. Yes tape joints with proper materials, not standard tape &amp; spackle. Overlap flange, but leave space between top of base and backer. Once you have installed backer board, stand on shower base and check for squeaks/rubbing at base/backer board. Cut backer if you hear anything....
Q:I am buying materials for the shower pan and all the other things I need but am not sure what thickness of cement board to use for the shower walls. I am covering it with tile, if that matters. Thanks
Stick with wonderboard or durock. While kerdi is a great product, you have to do it exactly right or you can have some major problems. 1/2 wonderboard, attached with galvanized roofing nails, use fiberglass tape and thinset on the seams and the corners.
Q:We recently hired a contractor to remodel the entire bathroom due to water damage. We are getting close to tiling. There is a tub going in then the walls will be tiled for the shower.The contractor put green board in the entire bathroom first. Then he put water barrier paper over the green board in the areas that will be tiled. Then put hardy backer cement board over that. Is this a good way to do it? There is no cement board below a certain height because the tub will be there. I wasn't sure if this is a good way to do it?
Excellent way to do it.. The green board, vapor barrier and the cementrous board is one of the best tiling techniques for water protection. edges must be treated for the tile , either in a special tile trim ( most are called an A 4200 but there are other trims, depending on the type of tile you have) or the metal edge to finish it off. The person is doing it correctly. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:I plan on installing about 400 square feet of ceramic tile in a kitchen. I wanted to know if I need to put down a cement backer board before laying the tile?If so, how do I determine if I should use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch?Finally, what is the preferred method of securing it to the subfloor? Is is it glued somehow or nailed to the floor joists (I suspect nailed, but I've never used it before).The subfloor is plywood and seems secure. I am not sure how thick the plywood is yet (haven't gone to the basement and looked for any stamps on it). I've done ceramic tile before, but it has always been a small area with mosaic tile, so I never put much thought into the backer board.Thanks
This will expose the plywood underlayment. Now fit a reciprocating saw with a 12-inch-long wood-cutting blade and make a shallow plunge cut into the plywood. Just as the blade starts to cut through the plywood, pull the saw toward you and make a continuous, low-angle cut just through the plywood underlayment, not the subfloor. (As awkward as a reciprocating saw may seem, a circular saw is actually harder to control and kicks up too much dust.)
Q:I've already got the cement board down, taking it back up would mean messing with the toilet flange, which means plumbing, and that sucks. Plywood was in pretty good condition. Thanks in advance!
Ya, you should make sure that you have enough screws in it so it doesnt shift. thats the main purpose of thinset between the cementboard and subfloor. If your using hardibacker it shows you were every screw should go about 25 screws in each. You also should thinset the joints, just like drywall.
Q:Can the cement board be affixed to the woodworking board?
Why do not art glass cut off it? In the back of the cabinet for the glass, the cost will not be much higher, and beautiful. If the tile above the tile, it is necessary to use glass glue, damp after the board may be deformed, affecting the appearance of the tile is more likely to fall off.
Q:do i need mortar under the cement board?
If this is cement board for putting tile on in a bathroom it is not necessary for mortar under the board just screw it to the studs and glue on the tile
Q:Why does noise do not mean sound absorption? How to use good sound insulation, sound absorption material to handle the hall? Ask the master enlighten me!
First, silence: As the name implies, is to reduce the intensity of the sound source, can play this role is usually a porous material, generally common are cotton products. The most effective is the gradient of sound-absorbing cotton, the raw material is made of polyester fiber, but the density is gradient, what it means, that is, side is relatively soft, one side is hard, from soft to hard, soft side of the installation towards the source.
Q:I want to remove and replace my laminate covered counter tops, the particle board underneath is chipping bad near some edges,and there's almost no good place to put screws in to hold the dishwasher. I need plans or instructions how to build a replacement so I can use plywood and cement board to install ceramic tiles. How do I frame it for the sink and the edges?
ok.. first things first..what size tile are you laying.. what type of facing..bullnose, cut tile that matches the top .. the type of edging you use will determine the depth of the top ( thickness) be sure that the edging wont interfere with the doors or drawerheads..i would also recomend epoxy grout..a little more money and trickier to apply but worth it in the long run. i would completely remove the old countertop..determine thickness of the new top and purchase materials. ncrete board comes in two thicknesses 1/2 and 1/4.. buy plywood to make up the diff..remember to stagger any seams for strengh..screw down the ply either from the top or from underneath through cabinet gussetts...then screw down concrete board..dont skimp on screws.. use thin set and tape edge pieces for 24 hours then grout!..take your time in initial layout as this could save hours and money..the answers about the sink looked good..would add to center the sink in the sink base cabinet though and check for fit before installing any tile

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