• DT607、DS607 series three-phase inductance type meters(long life technics) System 1
DT607、DS607 series three-phase inductance type meters(long life technics)

DT607、DS607 series three-phase inductance type meters(long life technics)

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Application

DT607、DS607 series three-phase inductance type meteres are used to measure active energy with reference frequency 50Hz. features: low power consumption, high stability, long life.


Type and meaning
Normal operation and installation conditions

1、Specified operation temperature range:-25℃~55℃;
2、Limit operation temperature range:-40℃~70℃;
3、Relative humidity : less than 85%(ambient temperature is 23℃);
4、No corrosive gas and dust-proof, no mildew, no insects.


Construction features

1、Rotating parts use long life technics:a、use oxidation-proof magnet bearing, no abrasion. b、fixed bearing on and under rotating axis(imported from german) c、use high strength and high rigidity material for up-down bearing pin; d、rotating axis and worm in a same axis to ensure long life operation(more than 25 years).
2、Electranagnetic system uses new construction: voltage and current coil are all fixed on a iron frame to ensure stability.
3、Braking components use new construction and high magnet-accumulating material( LNG37 permanent magnet alloy) to ensure stability;
4、Use excellent material for voltage coil(can withstand Uimp more than 6kV;
5、High accuracy of register to ensure long life.
6、Base and terminal block use high insulation and burning-proof material;
7、Use polycarbonate as cover to ensure good transparent effect and high strength.


Main technical parameters

1、Conform to GB/T 15283-1994 and IEC 521-1988 standards;
2、Class index:2;
3、Reference voltage:3×220V / 380V、3×380V、3×100V;
4、Ib and Imax:3×1.5(6)A、3×3(6)A、3×5(20)A、3×10(40)A、3×10(60)A、
3×20(80)A、3×30(100)A;
5、Power consumption:less than 1.5W and 2VA under reference voltage,current and frequency;
6、Start-up: under the condition of the referenced pressure, referenced frequency and cosΦ=1,and the load circuit doesn't exceed the 0.5% of the basic circuit, the ammeter's rotor can be started up and constant turning.
7、Potential action: the ammeter's rotor turns without exceeding one cycle when its line has no electric current and the pressure is 80%~110%of the reference.
8、Dielectic properties conform to GB / T 15283-1994.


Fype and specifications
Outline and installation dimensions


Q: I was recently mudding and was stuck for quite a bit of time in mud up to my foot brake. When I went in my electric start odometer ect all worked. It even worked for a while in the mud then suddenly quit. I pulled it out and it will pull start and run fine but the 4x4 and all electrical components seems dead. I've checked the battery and it's good. I'm assuming it's a fuse or short ? But idk where to start. Thanks for all your help. Quick recap runs fine pull starts first pull but absolutely nothing electrical is working 4x4 selector lights starter nothing.
Id start with fuses, then check the wireing to make sure one didnt break or come loose
Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?
If the old fuse is open, it did what it was supposed to do. Until the cause is found and repaired it will continue to open when it is used. Take the unit in to a local service center and have it repaired or purchase a new unit. The reason the company will not give you the information you request is a product liability issue. If you install a fuse in a faulty unit and burn down your home they are concerned about an insurance claim. For $50 it is not worth risking your home with a fire and your insurance deductible is probably much higher than $50. All advice on this site is worth what you pay for it and that is the limit of the liability.
Q: I just picked up my 1996 Jeep Cherokee from the shop. My mechanic fixed the ignition and a couple of other things, but now the power windows, blinkers, A/C and heat won't work. I checked the fuses, but they all appear to be fine. I'm gonna contact the guy tomorrow, but I just thought someone might have some insight. Thanks.
It just sounds like something was not plugged in all of the way, Either that or the ignition had more weak components or connections.
Q: i have a cb base on my home i was connectin the cb on my power supply and i put the wired rong i switch the way is supost to go and know the power swich goes on the cb wont go on i check fuse on power supply its good and radio is good in the fron of the power supply i have 2 button for positive and negative i think the problem is there fuse never burnplease help my question thank you god bless you
Does the power cord coming from the cb radio have a fuse? if so, it is probably blown. If it does not, then you may have fried a diod or other component on the cb radio circuit board.
Q: have issue with couple of thing on a ford galaxy 1999 2.3 ghia w/airconis there a relay box in it as checked all fuses for the issuse i have and i lost even with the propper manual, rear passenger door wont open or window wont work, air con not workin and the blower that you can switch on to let air at ya face for cold or hot not working. now i havew done loads to the car and so far ive done well but this is bugging - can anyone help. what things have i missed.
Jay the controls for the windows and door are likely a problem in the drivers side control switches as this works as the main switch for all doors. I have seem this often when someone installed door speakers and unhooked the wires from the way they were tied down. the window came down and pulled them damaging the the wires. The A/C system and heater are hard to call over the computer but I can tell you the fan portion is not connected directly to either. it is a rheostat. a dimmer of sorts. The actual fan motor is built with a power and ground connection and is like all other electric 2 wire motors, a positive and a negative. If the motor isn't frozen inside the motor will spin even if the two wires are switched around as this is only changing it's polarity. what will happen though is your fan will draw air out of the cabin instead of pushing air in. It uses a connection screwed into the air box to control the various speeds. the power enters this device and then used power reducing components internally to slow the motor down or speed it up. your switch on the dash for fan speed feeds this controller. If you are saying you are getting no air to your face but the fan is blowing, I think you will find its blowing on the dash board. maybe the feet as well. This is a factory installed default for a problem in the heater or A/C directing system. It was determined that the most critical thing a driver needs when driving is a clear windshield in the cold of winter. You must be able to see ahead and can bundle up with clothes to keep warm. If the system looses the vacuum needed to run the directional doors to send air to your face etc springs will close the doors and direct the air to the windshield over every other place.
Q: have replaced alternator, speed control censer, electric fuel pump. When fuses are replaced car starts , but dies when put in reverse. and blows another relay fuse.
sounds like you've got one hell of a short somewhere. something is grounding out in the big way that shouldnt be.
Q: i have honda accord 1995lx.i was asked to change the fuse cause the window was not shutting down .I changed it and it worked.but the speedometer was down.the next day,my ignition switch broke down .i think there might be some electric short which damaged the ignition switch.ii replaced iti and it works now.i was wondering whether the electric short can damange the parts or not?will appreciate the response.thanks.
It is possible, but not likely. When the short occurs and the amperage flowing through the fuse reaches it's rating, then the fuse opens and protects the circuit from damage. Everything in that circuit is rated above the fuses blowing point, so no damage should occur to the components
Q: 2003 Ford Crown Victoria. Drove through some water last night and shortly after lost Power Steering, blower motor, A/C Heater. All of these things work fine after installing a single 15 amp fuse located in the car-by driver's feet. BUT then stops working after the fuse blows right away! What should I be looking for and where? Thanks
The water caused a short in one of the systems protected by the fuse. Your best case scenario is that drying the circuits will eliminate the problem. I suspect you will need to locate the short and replace some wiring. Start looking at each affected component and look for damaged insulation.
Q: I Have an 01 mitsubishi galant GTZ and the right passenger side parking lights, (running lights) dont work. The dash lights also dont turn on. Now the fuse was blown and i replaced once i turned the lights on it would blow again. I asked around and i was told it was a short. How to fixx? Please help.
ok, first you need to pull the headlight out of the socket and visually inspect it for damage. and by damage i meanmelted contacts, frayed wires going into the back of the connector or faulty light bulb, look at the filament inside the bulb and check for sections that looked burned and/or fused together. if you don't find a problem there follow the wires from the plug back into the main harness, pay particular attention to the area about 10 inches from the plug. where most shorts are located is where the wires come in contact with the sheet metal on the car.i.e the fenders, bumper, and frame rails. also don't rule out the possibility that the problem is in the rear lights. especially if you have incandescent lights in the rear. more often than not i have seen internal shorts in incandescent light bulbs that make lighting systems do some REALLY weird things. if you have some natural mechanical inclinition and some electrical experience with a multimeter this problem shouldn't be that hard to locate. if not then i would suggest taking it to your mechanic, ground shorts can be a little tricky. good luck
Q: I pulled the fuse to the sir bags when i worked on it and put it back and now it will not go out ?
you will need to take your car to the main dealer or someone with a code reader and they will turn your warning lights out. they probably came on because you pulled the fuse or disconnected an airbag wire while the ignition was turned on the dealer will probably read the code first and inform you of a probable fault. when an electrical component on a vehicle is disconnected while the ignition is turned on the ECU will will detect a (fault) ie power failure to the individual item that has been disconnected.

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