Q:I have a 1996 Ford Contour sedan. The tail lights, and the dash lights have gone out. The head lights, high beams, turn signals, break lights, everything else is working fine. The last time this happened, I replaced the headlight switch and that fixed it. But this time, I replaced the headlight switch again, and it still doesn't work. I checked all the fuses in the box under the steering wheel, and all of them are fine. Any guesses as to what else could be causing the problem?

I have the exact same problem. And it's not a fuse!!!!!

Q:helloI was installing a GPS tracker in ford Mondeo so i needed 12+ volt from the car. and I take one from driver side under the plastic that' need to the driver knee. there I found many wires and I found red wire I took the 12v+ from it. but by mistaken that wire touched the car ground and now there's no electricity on it I've checked all fuses under the glove box and all fuses near to the engine and non of them was burned out please what should i do

There must be a blown fuse. The purpose of a fuse is to break the connection if the circuit becomes overloaded, this prevents electrical fires, and other dangerous situations. Blown fuses are not obvious if you just glance at the fuse box, you need to remove them in order to see the conductor. I would look at a wiring diagram, find the components on the diagram that are not working, and trace them back to the fuse number and location. This problem can only be a blown fuse or fuseable link.

Q:96 Isuzu rodeo. The fuse for the blower shorted out last winter and now the blower only comes on full blast (heat or a/c, doesn't matter). Also, whenever the temp drops below 5 degrees the fuse for the blower shorts and I have to replace it. How do I get the blower to work at lower levels? Do I replace the blower itself, or is there another electrical component I'm forgetting to check?

You might need to replace the switch or the resistors.

Q:Any ideas what th FL5 50 amp fusable link is for, thanks in advance

Give the abs unit a slap with your palm.I had one of thes e with a stuck solenoid causing the unusual current flow What follows is not related to your problem but the info about FL5 follows:- If you have a Range Rover Classic or Discovery 1 that is getting up there in age and has had its share of use, not to mention exposure to western New York winters, you may soon find out how a fusible link works. Sometime in the 1992 Model Year, Land Rover introduced the fusible link as an added protection to the electrical systems in the Range Rover. This system also was used in the Discoverys. If you experience a number of sudden and simultaneous failures of various electrical systems and components, there is a good chance that you have blown one of these fusible links

Q:I installed my brand new battery in backwards, it was late at night and i couldn't see what i connected. When the terminals connected, a green wire connected to the starter popped in smoke. I took my truck to a mechanic and they said i fried my computer and that i needed a new one.or a used one. IS this seriously what i didbecause this is a $500.00 F*** Up.

I also changed my battery in the dark. Bad idea, was in a hurry to get it done. Bought a battery off a mechanic for my 2001 Honda Civic and assumed it was the right one. It wasn't the polarity were reversed. I couldn't see the + and - because it was too dark. I watched the positive cable spark for about 10 seconds then pulled it off realizing what I had done. Fortunately the main 80amp fuse in the engine compartment fried and that's where the damage ended. Bought a new fuse and the right battery and changed it in the daytime. I guess it depends on what kind of vehicle you have because I didn't fry anything.

Q:I am replacing it in a UPS back up energy for my computer.please if you dont know dont answer, dont guess.

yes you can, 1 amp wont hurt it at all. just do it in a static free area.

Q:I had lab and I don't quite understand why I did what we did. We used an analog and digital VOM and used it to record the ohms and volts of various electrical components. I was wondering why when using the analog that different devices read completely different ohm readings. Take for example, our Buss fuse didn't even make the needle move, but the diode and the resistor made it go to infinite ohms. How do I figure out what they are supposed to read, and what to expect before going to lab. I couldn't find anything in my book or the lab manual. Also, I was wondering why a resistor would measure outside of its' tolerance range. Is this because it was faulty? Any help is appreciated.

hmm - the fuse resistance was very low, the diode was infinite 'cos it didn't conduct - it would have done if you reversed the polarity ( turned it round!). This was an experiment - you do not ask what they are supposed to read, it's your job to find out by measuring.!!! That's Physics, not Criminology! The resistor could be out of tolerance, but so what? Just measure it's value as it is now.

Q:I put new fans cooling and ac,, new fan relay. And new tempeture sensor and don't work my ac fan and cooling fan . I check the all fuses are in good condition .,only I have to change the auxiliary switch to see if that is the problem.,

I can't imagine why anyone would replace all these components that are easily tested with a simple test light? For example, you can't be sure of fuses by looking at them. You have to use a test light. You need to start at one end of the flow and work to the other. Might be easiest to start at the radiator temp sensor. If you shunt that, the relay should kick the fan on. If not, then check power to the relay at the relay. And don't forget grounds. For example, power to the fan is not enough. It also much have a good ground connection wire. You can get a test light at a place like Harbor Freight for $1.

Q:Hi there,I've been given this task to recognize the different types of power poles and their electrical equipments. The images are in the following link. I have encircled the equipments and components that are needed to be NAMED.

Most of these are insulators. A, D, E G are pin or post insulators B, C F are suspension insulators. The items circled in magenta on F and in yellow on G are fused disconnect switches.

Q:Hey all, I just bought a 1981 Subaru GL on Saturday--my first car, yay!Anyways the guy I bought it from said that the headlight fuse ocasionally blows out. Yep, its done it twice since I've had it.The first time I was driving and charging my phone in the cigarette lighter (maybe it can't handle everything at once?). Second time was two hours ago I went to start the car and the lights wouldn't come on.What's the underlying issue here? Fuses are cheap and easy to find but id rather fix it for good than having to buy a new set of fuses every couple if weeks.

Check your wiring harness. It can be shorting out if there is contact between two bare wires (rat damage) or a wire that is not grounded properly. Make sure nothing is stripped or bare, you should never be able to see through the plastic on wires. Make sure your battery is not corroded and grounded properly. Test light your harness to make sure the hots are hot and the nots are not. There is a lot of stuff on forums for wiring diagrams and such to make sure that no one pieced it together wrong or cut/spliced into something they shouldn't have. If your Lights are spliced with a higher voltage component the wires will get hotter than they were designed for and that will cause a fuse to burn out. Hope that helps. Follow the wires from the back of your headlight all the way to the firewall and make sure connection to battery is still good (will will likely have to pry apart that black slinky looking wire cover to make sure it's all good under the hood). Make sure to check for signs of pests!