Q:I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy that keeps blowing the instrament panel and gauges fuse. After the vehicle has warmed up for about a half hour the fuse blows then the transmission won't shift all the gauges go out speedometer and odometer included. When i put a new fuse in it blows instantly. I know that their must be a short somewhere but can u tell me where the most common place might be for that to happen. I have already disconnected the rear defogger.

You have most likely lost a ground wire somewhere. If you don't have the system grounded, then the return current takes the path of least resistance and blows fuses. Your lights will flash from dim to bright, and will generally give you headache. Also, if the trailer plug you installed is wired incorrectly, then it causes problems. Remember, on the plug it is green for your right turn and stop, the yellow for the left turn and stop, the brown for tail lights and running lights, and the white is ALWAYS the ground. If you made the most common mistake, you wired the green as ground, which is true in house wiring, but not auto wiring.

Q:I got infinity kappa 6.5 Components and infinity 6x9 kappa both are 2 ohm speakers, dual 7 inch touch screen tv radio has a 15 amp fuse, mtx jack hammer 4 channel amp which is rated at 400 watts rms x 4 @ 2 ohms birth sheet states 480 rms @ 2 ohms x 4, 800 max birth sheet states 895 max @ 2 ohms x 4 and has 2 35 amp fuse, and rockford fosgate tweeters ran of the radio 22 rms. just bought a die hard platinum battery and upgraded my ground and power cables under the hood with 4 awg cable. two 4 awg cables to the alternator and 2 to the ground and engine block one to the fuse box all 4 awg. my lights dim as the bass hits in idle should i get a capacitor or high output alternator?????????

Get an alternator b/c your battery is being drained faster than it should. If u can upgrade to 140-160 amps that should do it. A small cap just to the bass amps might be a benefit as well.

Q:I turned on my car to go to work and I noticed my windshield wiper fluid kept spraying. I got to a stop sign and turned off my car for a few seconds and when I started it up again the problem continued. I got to work and thought I would try it again, same result. Same happened after work and this morning. I see how to fix the problem, hopefully, but how do I fix it? I thought I got the fuse, I think it's called (not really a car person), and I tried getting it off but only a plastic part did. Any help?

I think you have a fault at wiper fluid pump or a short-circuit. The fuse is for all components( Wipers + pump +)

Q:I have built a custom car and want to reuse the original fuse box under the dash. All I am running that require power is all my exterior lights, gauge lights, dome light, power windows, ignition switch, push start button, alternator, and distributor. I want my lights to have constant power to a switch just like factory but i want everything else to get power once the ignition is turned on, once again like a factory car. Any help is appreciated.

Best bet for the BAT/alternator fuse is a fuse link or maxi-fuse and you will save a bunch of heavy guage wiring. Your ignition switch may have one or two ACC wires and usually only one RUN wire and one B+ (battery feed). Determine which wires you want to feed the fuse panel strips with and hook them up to the common fuse box junctions - then run you accessory and other component wiring from the appropriate fuses in the box. Use the BAT feed wire from the ignition switch for your lighting fuses. More often than not, your head lamp switch has an internal circuit breaker for the head lamps.

Q:All distributor components have been replaced.As well as the starter,alternater and the cutting and crimping of new spark plug wires the battery is good and the spark plugs are clean and gaped to correct specification.

Power supply to the distributor would be a good place to check Not knowing what you are working on hinders a more specific and detailed answer.

Q:hiya, ive got some serious problem once ive open my pc then something sparked inside my PSU then i see that AVR turns its light off and its FUSE isbroken, the MOBO's LED light is off,but my monitor is on.and have power coz my monitor uses myPSUs power wich one is realy dead?

i think your psu is dead as the monitor takes the direct power and does not affects your psu

Q:component in the product functioning or not. true or false?

You are attempting to characterize interdependence. Logically, something is independent if it has no dependency on any other component in the product functioning AND SEPARATELY no other component in the product can cause it to function or not. You describe the first component, but not the second. Example - An IPOD plugged into the cigarette lighter of the car (and pretend that it has no internal batteries). There is nothing that can be entered into the ipod that will change how the car works (car is the potentially independent component), however, if the car fuse blows, the IPOD turns off. This certainly violates the hypothesis that the car is independent.

Q:Everything has been hooked up in my car for about a year (DLS Components, and Rainbow Sub!) and I decided to sell my subwoofer box. Now my amp was on the box so I took it off. In doing so I unhooked all my wires, power, ground, remote, etc etc. anyways. So I put my amp back into my car. NOTHING WAS HOOKED UP SO PLEASE DONT SAY MY OHM LOAD IS OFF I hooked my power, ground, and remote back up. I did not hook any of my channels on, so i jus decided to start my car. Everything i start it my fuses pop right away. I checked my ground, power, and remote everything is good! where in the world is my short!@!!!!!

Make sure to use lube and condums next time.

Q:I have a video mixer here which the power plug says 12v 300mA and i have a power supply which is 12v 1700mA. Will i be able to use this power supply or will it blow the video mixer up? Thanks

most likely it will blow a fuse or component, that big of a difference is a lot. most components can take 10 to 15 percent variance (they build them with some tollerence) but that's too much IMO

Q:And how are they wired?

There are two sides to the average home A/C unit. You have the evaporator side or indoor blower and the condenser side outdoor unit. On a close of the thermostat 24v from r to y (G) the indoor fan relay closes(24v GC). Allowing 110v to the indoor blower. The 24v signal also travels to the condensing unit (YC). If equipped with low and/or high pressure switches and they are closed 24v will be supplied to the cooling contactor. When the cooling contactor coil is powered 220v will pass through the contactor to the compressor and condenser fan (Condenser fan sometimes have fan cycling controls). Both compressor and condenser fans have capacitors. Indoor blower motor typically 110v supplied to indoor unit through breaker Outdoor unit typically 220v supplied through separate breaker. Indoor unit transformer takes 110v and down steps to 24v for control power. (Sometimes internally fused) Typical 24v wiring C- Common leg of 24v R- Red supply side of 24v W- Heat Y- Cooling G- Indoor Fan