CDB7LE Series Residual Current Circuit Breakers

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Q: If every time I put a new fuse in my surround sub and switch on the power to the sub it instantly blows the fuse with a deafening 120Hz ripple even before I press the power button on the controller, which I should have to do before any sound comes out at all, what is the easiest way to diagnose which component has fried and made a short? Is there any way to test capacitors without power running to them?: If by surround sub you mean a dedicated amplifier and a subwoofer hooked to it: 1] Test the impedence of the subwoofer; if it is shorter that may be the sole problem [or it may have fired the amp]. Compare that with the specification value 2] You can measure caps with an ohmmeter [very crubdely, though, but likely well enough; see

Q: I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring. When I first bought it, six months ago I replaced the fuse that powers the radio, trunk button, unlock/lock button, and rear view mirror light. I replaced it every two months but lately Ive had to replace it every other day! I have no clue whats going on or what I should do. Please help!: Auto zone won't diagnose that for you. You do have a direct short and you will need to trace the wires till you find it. First try and disconnect each component in that circuit meaning radio see if it blows if it does then go to the trunk unlock devise and unplug that if it blows then go on from there. When it stops blowing then replace that device. In most cases the wiring in you car is well protected from direct shorts unless someone has messed with them or add thing to the wiring that shouldn't be there. It's just a process of elimination. hope this helps

Q: I remove the negative battery wire, put my multimeter inline with the battery and said wire, and place it on DCV 20 and see if there is a draw with all the lights and components turned off. Then start removing fuses until the draw drops?Additional Details98 ford mustang v6 3.8L manual trans: I would use the meter in current mode, not voltage. Look for the DCA range. You might have to switch the positive lead to another port for testing current depending on the range. Like you said, hook the meter up in series with a battery terminal and start pulling fuses until the current draw suddenly drops. Then you know which circuit to investigate.

Q: I looked inside the tv and there in no burn marks or components. What would cause the fuse to blow out. Can anyone help me?: Something inside of the set is shorted out. This can happen even though nothing appears burnt. My guess is that it is something in the power supply.

Q: and explain how they are accomplished ?use these :switchfuseconnecting wires conductorssbulb (load)power supply (source): Connect one side of the Power Source through the Fuse to one of the Switch terminals. Connect the other Switch terminal to one side of the Load. Connect the other side of the Load to the remaining terminal on the Power Supply. I trust this is what you're looking foryou weren't very specific.

Q: I have a circuit keep blowing fuse(0.4A) with slightly lower rating of my transformer (0.5A) without any load, so i think is the issue of in-rush current. ***Note : my transformer is toroidal, saw a lot of website saying they inhibit higher inrush voltage (80times. scary)***Will the in-rush current will do any harm or any changes to other things(component) ?If so, what type or rating of fuse should i get ? (best if easily get, market available)ORis there any way to de-energize the transformer when it is turned off/before switch on, or any circuit to use for protect over-current/voltage during inrush ONLY ***Note that i want to make my circuit fuse safe from short circuit and blow the fuse if it is really short circuit***: Assuming the transformer is well designed and you are operating it within it's rating, no problem. I'd change the fuse to 3/4 amps slo-blow. .

Q: i understand you need the battery to get a car started and the spark plugs, but what else is used in a car to get it to start? i ask cause when i try to turn it on sometimes it wont start right away, the battery is fine my sparks are good, but the car still has a hard time starting up.: It's not necessary to turn it on every day, as running the car for a few minutes probably won't get to full operating temperature. But highway driving about once a week for a half hour or so is good for the engine especially in colder weather; highway driving will burn out the water condensation in the engine (which contributes to rust and water contaminating the oil). It's the stop and go city driving that puts most of the wear on the engine. Whenever the car sits for a while, I'll see milky condensation on the oil filler cap, highway driving takes care of that. Though with the $4 gas I'm not making those highway trips as much.

Q: I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy that keeps blowing the instrament panel and gauges fuse. After the vehicle has warmed up for about a half hour the fuse blows then the transmission won't shift all the gauges go out speedometer and odometer included. When i put a new fuse in it blows instantly. I know that their must be a short somewhere but can u tell me where the most common place might be for that to happen. I have already disconnected the rear defogger.: Get a toyota. honestly i have no clue.

Q: I have a Kenmore 110.64672400 and my husband thought it would be easy to disconnect the buzzer. He cut the two wires to the buzzer and started the dryer. It ran - until it started tried to buzz - then it died.What did we fry? What do we now need to replace?Please help.: That's one of many possibilities. Get out the multimeter and test all possible componants 'till you find the dead one. Hopefuly it's just a thermal fuse or thermostat and not the motor or timer!

Q: If it is a fuse which fuse or fises would it be thank yoi: All these components have separate fusing. the lights are both on individual fuses. radio has a few that control the diff components related to it, and cruise is completely separate from both. your problem is else where. i would definitely check the fuses though

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